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  1. Hello. I have a Silverado 1500 4.8L base model with 200K miles. I could use some guidance on how to troubleshoot two engine codes that my truck has. P0101 and P0171. I erased the codes, unfortunately. This is what I have done thus far: -Inspected the Air filter (it is clean) - Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. - The MAF values are responsive to changes in engine RPM. I don't have any special tools to check for vacuum leaks. I Took live readings with my Zurich ZR8 code reader The LTFT1 and LTFT2 hover around +14% when engine warm and idling around 600 RPM. Drove around a little and LTFT1 and 2 rose as high as 21%. MAP - 11 Hg MAF reads 0.52 lb/min TPS reads 9% Update 9/5/2021: I tested the fuel pressure and it is in the normal range, 58 while idling, a bit lower with the key in the "On" position. While running the engine, In short bursts, I sprayed brake cleaner around the air intake hoses and gasket and listened for changes in the idle pitch. Admittmedly, I may not have hit every crevice while doing this. No leaks detected. What are my next steps?
  2. I started off with a search but most were for GMT800s. Just yesterday my 2009 Silverado 5.3 started throwing P0300 codes. The only real change that's happened recently is it's gotten quite hot out compared to when I got it over the spring. It's always had a bit of a stumble at idle, but nothing serious. I noticed today going up a steep incline under load on the highway, the MIL was flashing. Seems like there's a lot of potential answers for this code as well: Bad spark plugs Bad ignition coils Fuel delivery problems collapsed lifters Crank Variation Relearn. I was wondering if there's a better way to narrow this down without simply throwing parts at it or bringing it to the shop. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  4. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  5. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  6. What's the word everyone. Full disclosure, this post will officially mark my first ever post on any forum board. Over the last 20 years give or take, I've utilized the forum boards in research efforts to gain knowledge. Subsequently stumbled upon case studies that were valuable bits of knowledge that happened to be very handy long after i had read them. And on certain rainy days forums have even been an outlet of entertainment! However, it wasn't until earlier this year that i ever took the time to register an account and devuldge deeper into the community of a forums page and I honestly couldn't tell you why that is. I joined a page for info on a Saturn Vue that i've had since 2005 and though i had browsed the posting from this webpage countless hours over the years i had never been so completely stump by an issue (be it motor cars 0r any other type of forum) that i was ready to invest time into creating an account. If you think this sounds bizarre and silly you should put yourself in my shoes and kick your own tail for withholding yourself from the community and vast resources that come with joining. I am now registered to a few boards and todays the day i make a post. BLAhBLAHbLAH BLAH BLAhBLAHbLAH BLAHBLAhBLAHbLAH BLAH 1999/2000 4.3L looking @ rolling 310 k. I've owned the truck since 2003 when she still had less than 30K racked up on the OD. I recently pulled her out of the stable to get her back on the road after 2.5 years. Also just to note, this is not the first time i stored the truck for lengthy period of time. With that being said i am knowledgeable to enough to know that i dont know $h!T outside of what i know has worked for me and what has not worked over the years. While being put up or stored, depending on the reason she got parked i would make the effort to start and let run every 8-12 weeks on average and try to maintain the integrity of components that would fall victim to these situations IE- brake lines, rubbers hosing and such, fuel systems,.... In doing so i have always been able to bring her back to life after minimal post storage tinkering. Nothing a little carb cleaner and high octane fuel wasnt able to cure for her to run like she had never been stored. In all honesty, after sitting for close to 48 months ( stabil mixed in half tank of gas or more and then circulated through the motor / tires pulled / harnesses seperated and or protected from critters / cabin vented to help against mold and condensation) I aired tires up and connected the same red top optima that had been with the truck for 9 years, she started on the third key turn. Not being one to hide behind allure and taking things for whst ther are. I would have no hard feelings about how sluggish or tired she would feel in any part of the power curve as i understand this is what you will encounter on any motor that has seen milage of that sort. (ESP with me driving like I do/ OR DID WHEN I WAS A YOUNGer lol) Last time i revived the truck it was parked with a toasted 4l60e. fast forward the tranny installed and truck on the road was running but not nearly as efficient as previous revivals in the sense that she seemed to bog off the bottom and not want to accelerate/build rpm's unless i were to command WOT. At that point the 262 would scream and rev out. I had started gathering parts for a basic tune-up and aimed at completing this a few weeks before i took it the the Inspection house but all things considered it was running / idling / shifting / exchanging heat / and burning fuel / and holding fluids as good as i could of wanted. I working with a scanner on my Saturn Vue (2003, 3.0L v6 dohc 5-Speed auto "NON CVT" unicorn) and the scanner suddenly refused to display anything when plugged in. tried to reconnect an few times. key on, off, on ect. and still nothing. Strange being i had it reading code and fuel trips only 45minutes before hand. Puzzeled i decide to function test the scanner on my 1500. It worked as designed on the truck, pulled P0453 and cleared. I turned key to off position unplugged scan and went back to the Saturn. Hours later i hit the ignition in the truck and got a healthy cranking effort with no start. I didnt think too much of it i figured fuse or maybe fuel clog somewhere. after checking every thing i could with DMM @ midnight on Sunday with Monday approaching rapidly i accepted defeat and took an uber to home and then work. Further diagnosis that Monday evening determined i had no spark. No spark at the plugs, coil, cap, but the cranckshaft pos sensor was rotating @ around 200-210 so i assumed it was in the operating. Jiggled some wires around after replacing the distributer/CAP/ROTOR/COIL/TBS/ MAF, AND PLUGD ANF WIRES STILL NO SPARK. I then jiggled the wire harnesses and replaced the MAP and bingo we had spark. a few bumps on the ignition later we were running but struggling to communicate and fluXuating from low to high idle missing and choking on i belief air, but wasnt sure. I drove around from home an work a few days and logged 100miles hoping it would smooth out an i didnt. I verified connectors were in operating condition and established they were get power, scratching my head and getting SES light only for the evap P0453.. From there i checked fuel pressure (55-58psi with 15min hold time give or take, had nice 5Psi jump when key was turned off). Sprayed a entire can of carb clean around all upper intake and swapped ignition parts that were replaced out with the newly installed ones to rule out any dUds. I decided i was bored and needed to look inside the intake. My research suggested i was dealing with a fuel issue after the fuel pressure regulator. Pulled upper intake and verified injector were cycling but could use an upgrade to revised CFI system so i ordered that fine piece of monkey madness engineering and popped the lower manifold off. the coolant ports seemed to blanketed by carbons-grime-and other trash stuck to the gasket from last install, which covered approximately 60-80% of the port opening. This was the case on both front and the back of the of the intake orientation. I expected to see worse if i had to bet on it before hand (not that they good) and was surprised. Made the mistake of pulling valve covers before assessing the condition of intake/head mating. What appeared to be dust turned to coolant - oil soaked debris that had collected in the valley of heads and plenum was in fact just that. ALONG WITH PINE NEEDLES, LEAVES, AN ASSORTMENT OF ANTHROPODS NOW DECEASED, 2-HIDE N SEEK WORLD CHAMPION 10MM X 1/4" SOCKETS AND ALL THE OTHER THINGS CYLINDER WALLS JUST CANT GET ENOUGH OF LOL. MY QUESTION IS IN REGARDS TO FINDING ENTHUSIEST IN THE HOUSTON AREA THAT ARE WELL VERSED AND PROVEN IN DOING FLASH WORK FOR THE NEW AGE COMPUTERS. THIS 99/00 IS MY BEAT UP BABY THAT WAS AVERAGING 21-23MPG SINCE THE DAY I GOT IT. SHE STARTED RUNNING AWEFUL AFTER ALMOST ALL IGNITION SYSTEM BEING UPGRADED/REPLACED. Found small coolant leak in plenum along with three poppit valves in poor working condition. I will reassemble sometime this week after i rework some ports in the intake. i WANT TO DELETE DOWNSTREAM o2'S AND EGR. CAN I ALSO DELETE PCV? Need someone in Houston who can flash these off my ecu!!! i have two other motors for projects and im eager to start setting things in motion for some builds as well as being educated by guys or gals that have a good grasp on the electrical side of these things. i truly believe you are able to learn something for every single person you meet in life. IF I CANT HELP YOU, I WONT HURT YOU !!! _________ 99/00 GMC 1500 swb 4.3L vortec W(vin), 310k on OD
  7. Anyone have any advice on what would cause a 2015 silverado to throw these three codes, p219b, p0050 and p0300. My truck misses when its cold but as soon as it warms up the check engine light will go out and it'll run fine. The p219b says its a fuel injector but i'm sure it isn't that beings it runs fine after it warms up. I've run Lucas fuel injector cleaner through it several times and ran some sea foam through it.
  8. What’s up guys, Having a random cold start rough idle issue with my ‘16 suburban with the ecotec 5.3. This happens completely randomly, typically when colder temperatures outside but not always. MIL will be triggered but will go away after some driving. Some instances it flashes and then will go off. Sometimes when the light is triggered the ABS and stabilitrack light will be on and the transmission will roughly upshift and downshift. The indicator light will go away and typically the shifting will be fixed by shutting the vehicle off for a period of time and then re-starting everything will be back to normal. From what hat I have gathered U0401 means that the transmission control is not getting good signal during these times. In regards to the engine, I have between 5-20 misfires counts on all cylinders except #7 which has 80 and #8 which has over 6,000. Obviously there is a problem with #8, being a non AFM cylinder and being of random occurrence I’m thinking injector or coil pack. Any thoughts?
  9. 2007 Silverado 5.3 V8 with AFM with 180,000 miles Truck had lifter ticking sound and white smoke upon every start up which would go away after a few minutes, no check engine light Replacement list : - headgasket - valve gaskets - upgraded drivers side valve cover - valve stem seals - intake manifold gasket - exhaust manifold gasket - 8 new afm lifters - 8 new non-afm lifters - head gasket bolts - engine coolant temperature sensor - spark plugs - spark plug wires - fuel injectors - water pump - thermostat - cam sensor - crank sensor After completion of engine reassembly no longer had white smoke upon start up and no ticking sound but flashing check engine light code p0300. Code p0300 was for cylinder #1, #4, & #7 Moved coil packs between cylinder #1 and #2 to see if coil packs was bad but no change. Set engine at TDC before installing the rocker arms. All bolts have been properly torque and no parts have been left unplugged or uninstall. Any possible advice would be helpful
  10. A week or so ago I noticed a ticking after my truck was warmed up at idle. Well a few days went by and my truck started to misfire as I accelerated from a stop clearing up once i got up to speed. Along with a flashing check engine light I had the codes P0300, P0455, P0306. The next day I bought a new evap solenoid canister hoping to get rid of the evap code. After installing, I still had a misfire and a ticking coming from the passenger side bank. I plugged in my code reading and watched cylinder 6 consistantly misfire at idle. After replacing the plugs, checking the injectors, coils, and wires I thought i may be having lifter problems as cylinder 6 is an AFM cylinder. I pulled the valve cover off to check for a loose or stuck rocker, everything seemed fine. I fired up the truck and the rocker arms all looked to be operating fine. The truck also didnt seem to have a rough idle and wasn't ticking. I put everything back together backed it out of the garage and it went right back to its old ways. I cant seem to figure out the problem and was wondering if anyone else has heard of this or experienced it? Seems to be worst when I put the truck in drive or reverse and hold the brake(rough idle along with a misfire.) Any help or guidence would be appriciated!
  11. 2014 Silverado 1500 2wd 4.3l DI. 150,000 miles. Fleet vehicle with decos oil changes every 4,000 miles. Came in with a misfire. Counters showed cyl 1. Replaced plugs and wires (Delco). No change. Looked at injector balance and seemed to have a bad #1 injector. Replaced 1,3, and 5 injectors (delco) and the 2 stainless under manifold fuel lines. No change. Removed 1 and 3 plugs compression seemed very low on cyl 1. Performed induction service (BG). No change. Re-performed compression test. Much better 210 psi but still running like crap. Pulled left valve cover and removed #1 cyl rockers to close valves. Performed leakdown test. Only 5% leak at 100 psi. Help?!?
  12. 2003 GMC Sonoma 4.3l 93k miles P0300 random misfire nightmare Runs a little better after new spider injector assembly but still has random misfire code. Blinking check engine light goes off at higher rpm’s. Runs real smooth over 1500 rpm’s. Lower rpm’s get random misfire code and CAT starts stinking, motor bounces a little and can feel misfire but it’s a lot less now. Get a backfire when putting in gear (reverse or drive) and even in park when rpm’s go below 1000 and motor shakes and hesitates a second then holds idle. Doesn’t die below 1500 rpm’s now and holds idle. Slight erratic, intermittent idle due to misfire. New LIM, UIM, spider assembly with fuel pressure regulator, PCV, oil pressure sending unit, fuel filter, NGK plugs, wires, Lucas in tank, oil and filter, radiator hoses, oil coolant lines, battery, air filter, alternator, starter, ignition coil, cleaned MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Unplugged MAF while running. Made no difference. MAP sensor connector has appropriate voltage. Took out 02 sensors first and post Cat and it ran a little better. Couldn’t get middle on off. Tried for an hour, used PB Blaster. Friends scanner showed 02 sensors okay. Will checked fuel pressure again since new spider. Before fuel pressure would drop 5 psi when rev up rpm’s and increase at idle. Pressure didn’t drop when I turned it off. Something drains my (brand new) battery if I leave it plugged in so I recharged it before doing any work/tests on it. Had friend bring Snapon scanner... showed #2 spider injector not working. So replaced assembly. Crank or cam sensors?? Any help is appreciated! ?
  13. Ok, so here's the deal my truck keeps throwing the P0300 code (multiple cylinder misfire) and we can't figure out what is wrong with it. We've changed the knock sensor, the crank position sensor, changed the whole distributor to a MSD billet distributor (street fire model), changed plugs and wires, changed the coil. None of them have changed the fact that it keeps throwing this code. I also have the upgraded acdelco Spyder injection system. The motor is a freshly built 383 stroker built by a reputable engine builder when we first started the truck it ran like shit so we sent the computer to blackbear and had it tuned to the motors specs. When we got the tuned computer it in the truck it ran a hell of a lot better but it still keeps throwing this code. If anyone can point me in the direction of what could possibly be wrong or point me towards a good tech for these truck it would be greatly appreciated.
  14. I recently noticed my check engine light was on, once I scanned it it came up with the codes P0155 and P0300. A while back I had to engine swap my truck, the engine stayed a 5.3 but the year of the motor changed. Before I did any engine work no check engine light was on (this was a couple of months ago, yes I am aware parts break and need replacement but I'm not sure where to start or if its a programming thing). I have only a one year old exhaust system, along with sensors. I have yet to look and see if any connectors or wires have corroded. In terms of misfire, I have all new spark plugs and wires. I know sometimes misfires are also effected by fuel (I replaced my fuel pump awhile ago). It is and older truck (2006). I was curious if it was because I run 87, what 89 might do, etc.
  15. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  16. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  17. I'm getting frustrated, I have a 2001 2500 HD, 6.0 liter, I parked it for about a year or so and when I got it out it was running rough, keeps giving me the Po300 code multiple misfire, I changed the spark plugs and this did not help, so I starting looking other places, I found a couple of injectors that weren't working, so I changed them out with some rebuilt ones I bought on Ebay, I installed them and it seems to be hitting on the cylinders that were not working but still runs rough but now it pops out the exhaust and I still get the code, so I changed the spark plug wires since they were originals, still no better. I have sprayed the intake and all around it with carburetor cleaner and no change is noticed there, Anyone have any suggestions ?
  18. Hello, I recently inherited a 1999 Tahoe LT 4x4, 5.7L Vortec, Auto, 194K miles. Codes are P0300 and P0304. cylinder 4 has no compression. Fuel pressure is 55psi, Spark is steady and strong on all wires as indicated with an inline spark tester and timing light. 120-125psi on all other cylinders to include 2 and 6. No milk in the oil. I have not not taken off the valve cover yet to see what’s going on with valve springs yet. My question is “what sequence should I try to see if it’s springs, valves, seats, rings, pushrods, lifters, etc?” Thanks, Dave in Abq.
  19. How's it going, I have a 2000 single cab 4.8 Silverado 1500 that has a misfire, gradually revving up the engine you can tell the engine is missing and causes truck to vibrate, and vibration is worse while driving. Has following codes: p0300, p0137, p0141, p0157. I believe these are codes for random engine misfire and various 02 sensors? If someone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it thanks
  20. I have a 2001 silverado with the 5.3. It has about 153,000 miles and I have been having an issue that I haven't been able to track down. At idle it has a miss at idle, whether it is cold or warm. My knowledge says it is a vacuum leak somewhere that I cant find. There is no miss at any other rpm than idle. Recently as it has been getting colder (sub-30 degrees F) when I first start the pickup it shakes violently at idle, but after it warms up for about 30 seconds it runs as normal. Today when I started it and was warming it up my SES light started blinking, even though it was idling as normal. I shut the truck off because I knew that meant a multiple misfire code. I tried to start the pickup and it would not start. I plugged in my code reader, and I found the code P0300, or multiple misfire. I cleared the code and it started up and ran just as normal, with no issues. I drove it around 30 miles, shutting off an turning it back on numerous times to try and duplicate the issue but the code never came back. I have checked the intake gasket, which seems to be very intact. Where should I look next? Thanks for the help in advance.
  21. I did a search on here for replacing the engine computer and was surprised for not finding much ! We have an 05 Silverado with a 5.3 in it. The other evening, my wife went to see a friend and when it began to storm, she decided to leave. She went out and the truck was dead, no click, no crank. I went to get her and tried to jump start it (while it was still storming) and arcs came off of the negative terminal when the cable touched it. I stopped and decided to disconnect the battery till morning. Next day I go over there and reconnect the battery and the engine fans start running with no key in the ignition (probable reason why the battery arced the night before)! Battery voltage was down to under 11 volts so I took it to get checked since it was 5 years old. Got a new one, connected it, the truck fired up, and all seemed well. Took the truck home, parked it and 2 hours later I go to leave in it and the engine fans are running again ! When I drove away, I got about a mile from the house and the check engine light started flashing. Codes that came up were P0300 and P0480, random misfire and engine cooling fan code error. So..... I checked what I could, but then on Monday took it to an automotive electrical guy. He ran his diagnostics and while it was there, the fans came on by themselves again with no key on. He check his schematics, ran his checks and suspects the computer has some kind of fault. He said to get a salvage computer and he would re-flash it for my VIN. I checked around and found one local, but also looked online and came across "All Computer Resources" in Miami FL that sells reprogramed ECM / ECU / PCM automotive computers. I wasn't sure what to do, so called another electrical repair guy for another opinion. He said it could well be the computer, but would run his own checks before just replacing it. He was adamant about not using a salvage or reconditioned computer. Said he has been there, done that, and will now ONLY install new OEM replacement GM computers and flash them. Anybody out there have good or bad luck with a reconditioned computer ? Any thoughts or suggestions ?
  22. Gonna get right to the point by stating the facts that I do know. I have a 2001 Tahoe with a 5.3 Vortec with 165k miles. Check engine light has been coming on the past four winters. It started out a temperatures <10 degrees, and now has gradually gotten worse to <35 degrees. Same codes every time, P0171, P0174, and P0300, Lean bank 1 and 2, and random misfire. Most noticeable is rough idle, the colder it gets, the worse it is. After reaching operating temperature, it idles smooth, with plenty of power and never misses a lick. Last winter fuel pump, filter, and all lines from tank to manifold was replaced.( Due to pump quit working) Also plugs and wires was replaced. After asking around, and doing a little research, I was hoping for an easy fix by replacing the MAF unit, which also contains the IAT sensor. I have to tell ya...it didn't help. Thank you for the add, and any help you can provide.
  23. okay so here goes: 2005 silverado 1500 hd, 6.0 135k. Codes p2135 throttle pedal position sensor switch a/b voltage corelation, p0300 random multiple cylinder missfire detected, p0120 throttle pedal position/switch a circut. I have been fighting this isuue for the last two years and it is getting to the point I am ready to sell. I hate to do that as the truck is in overall great shape, well maintained with no other mechanical issues. As I said this issue has been going on for at least two years with some limited success for intermittent times at a resolution. I have replaced at different times all of the following all with oem ac delco parts. some of these were done due to other codes etc. throttle body, pedal postion assembly, wiring harness to the throttle body with new wires allmost going to the ecm ( did strip the old harness/plug and did come across a bad wire), the ecm, fuel injectors, cats, all 4 o2 sensors, map, mass air flow, knock seensors, plugs wires , intake gaskets, fuel pump and fill sensor, alternator, battery, I have also ran a new wire for the two grounds at the back of the block direct to ground. Currently after the ecm was replaced last, about 3 weeks ago, i have been getting this problem only upon start up at different times, hot or cold about 12 times a week. It always resets after I shut it down and wait a minute or two and I haven't had to erase the code to get it to go away. My next step short of selling the truck would be to replace the whole engine harness as I feel this must be a wire problem and trying to find that might take longer than a new harness install. I am in the Chicago area and If anyone has a reputable shop that has dealt with something like this I''d be interested in there name. Ant other reccommendations would be greatly appreciated. thank you
  24. Hello All, I have an ongoing issue I was hoping to get a few opinions on. A few weeks ago my truck started to gradually spudder when I was cruising with the RPMs jumping very slightly when it did. I did not notice it being related to transmission as it was shifting just fine so I figured ignition/timing. The check engine light came on with the error codes p0016 and p0300, camshaft/crankshaft misalignment and multiple misfires, respectively. I needed some brake work done anyway so I took it in to get serviced and they replaced the distributor rotor, cap, wires, sensor and all the coil packs. It worked fine for about a day and then the light came on. I've been working nights on a turnaround the last 2 months and just do not have time to take it in so I waited. About three days after the truck finally just died on the way home. It flashed low oil pressure/low oil level and the pressure dropped to zero as it was dying. I checked all the fluids and for leaks, everything was fine and where it should be. I had it towed to firestone (only thing that was open on the weekend). They quoted me $1300 for a new ECM and new distributor install. My truck is only work $2500-3000 and I'm coming up on paying that for repairs after the last round and this one. They said my ECM was sending commands but not receiving any and the distributor was not sending anything to the ECM. So my questions, the ECM I can see as being a potential for replacement, but the distributor seems like it would have more tell-tale signs if the gear drive was cracked or worn. They also did not mention anything about the ICM or the timing chain, which to me seem like the most likely culprits here. I really do not want to fork over $1300 only to find out my timing chain is stretched or the gears worn and have to fork over another grand. I'm going in tomorrow to inquire, but any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
  25. We've had a bunch of things happen at once to this 2007 Yukon XL 5.3 4WD, and I suspect it's all part of the same problem. Besides the above problems, we also have rough idle, and it occasionally shifts hard out of first gear. I've searched this forum and others, and I've found similar but not the exact symptoms, so I'm hoping someone can tell me if I'm thinking right on this. I don't hear any loud knocking, so I don't think the lifters are a problem. The vehicle has around 175,000 miles. 1) Replace upstream oxygen sensor 2) Check the fuel pressure and possibly replace the fuel pump 3) Check for intake manifold leaks and possibly replace gaskets 4) Check resistor by spare tire and possibly replace 5) Check/clean mass air flow sensor 6) Next check/replace the throttle body/throttle body position sensor Thanks - baskervi
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