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Found 18 results

  1. My Suburban has about 162K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Spark plugs and wires replaced at 113K miles. Brand new Wix air filter. BG or Amsoil fuel injector cleaner additive added to the fuel tank every ~5K miles. For the past 6 months or so I have ~5 totally out of the blue blinking check engine lights that go away after a minute or so. This always happened at cruising speed of ~72 MPH. I would pull over, run a scan, and only get P0300. That is, no specific cylinder is reporting any misfire. Checked all live data from all sensors I could read- MAP, MAF, O2, barometric pressure, and fuel pressure- and they all show normal readings at idle and under load. I understand that problems don't go away on their own and at one point have to go to the dealer. However, I am trying to do some of the low hanging fruit diagnostics myself consider the intermittent nature of this issue. Any suggestions what specific protocol to follow to narrow the cause of this random misfire? Thanks!
  2. Short version: 2018 silverado 2500 6.0 intermittently misfiring on bank 1. Holes 1/3/5/7. Changed 02 sensors, plugs. coils, catalytic converters, spark plugs. Once the truck is above 1300rpm or so, it doesn't misfire at all. Cannot seem to find any relation between whether ambient temperature is hot or cold or when engine temperature is hot or cold. Long version: Hey Y'all, I bought a used 2018 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0 L96 "G" about a month ago. Used from a sales lot. 160km (100,000 miles.) After driving about 200 highway miles or so, I was at a red light, and it was idling (burbling and chugging) a little weird. When I went to leave the red light, the engine was a bit hesitant, but once above 1200rpm or so, it drove fine. Over the next few days, It did the same thing intermittently and ended up throwing some codes: P0420: Catalyst system low efficiency P0137 H02S Circuit Low voltage sensor 2 P2097 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 1 P2099 Post catalyst fuel trim system high limit bank 2 P0300 random/multiple misfire. However, once rolling, it performs fine with no drama. The dealer gave me a 2 year unlimited mileage powertrain warranty through a 3rd party company. The warranty company does not pay for diagnostic work, just part changing and part cost. In order to get this warranty, I agreed to do oil change/spark plugs/air filter. For peace of mind, I ordered new 02 sensors (2 up 2 down) 8 new plugs (stock replacements) ignition coils and ignition wires. Once the parts came in, I got underneath and changed the 02 sensors. It looks like they had been changed at some point because they were aftermarket sensors. I started the truck up and cleared the codes. It ran fine for 10 minutes. I had my fiancée come out to back the truck out of the garage (I was filthy) and as soon as it went in reverse, it started idling like dog sh** and stalled out. I started it up again and we coerced it out of the garage. At this point I was tired and cranky (up for 24 hours with 12 hours of work in there.) I was in no mood to carry on with working on it. I took it to a shop and we plugged the Gucci Snap on scanner into the truck. It showed it was misfiring on 1/3/5/7. All bank 1. Bank 2 was fine. The mechanic/shop owner and I decided to have the coils/plugs/wires changed and see what happens. He called me later that evening and said the truck was running like a top. He had his datalogger on and it hadn't recorded a single misfire. I went to the shop and saw the truck had been running for about 40 minutes without recording a misfire. Drove it 10 minutes to a friend's house and had dinner. It worked fine. No idle or low RPM acceleration issues. When I left his house, I let the truck run for a minute and it started repeating it's prior behaviors. Did some studying at youtube university. Added a 2nd ground off of the coil harness to ensure it was grounding properly. No change. Cleaned MAF and throttle body, no change. Called some friends that are smarter than me. We concluded it may be the catalytic converter. While the truck wasn't short on any power.. It was a company truck (seemingly well maintained) that likely idled a lot. There are nearly 7000 hours on the truck. Not sure if that's high hours for the mileage. Took it to an exhaust shop and asked them to determine if the cat was pooched. They called me back and said it was. I did not ask how they determined this. Ordered a new set of Magnaflow cats (and a muffler for fun sounds.) Had them installed yesterday. Picked them up from the shop and the truck ran great. Today, it started doing the Harlem shake again. I'm guessing after this... It's got to be a wiring issue? Chafing somewhere? What makes me have a hard time believing it's electrical is that it is strictly RPM related. Idle to about 1300/1400 rpm. And intermittent. Once I'm cruising it's fine. If I am at a lower speed and the trans is in a gear where the RPM is low... it will (very seldom) struggle a little to build RPM. I've been using the gear selector a lot to keep the RPM's above 1400. I cannot seem to find a correlation between when the engine is hot/cold etc. If any of you have some insight, it would be greatly appreciated. This weekend a friend and I are going to hookup datalogger to check fuel trims, and also watch for misfires while wiggling harnesses and such. Have a great day! I'm about to lose my mind. This has been a slow process
  3. I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
  4. First off I apologize if this is in the wrong forum I could not find anything related to a 2019 Sierra 2500HD. I wanted to reach out the the community for some help/advice. I have been having issues with my 2019 L5P Duramax specifically the fuel rail pressure performance during deceleration fuel cut-off which is P1089. I have been to two different GM dealers and neither one have been able to successfully fix this problem. They have replaced the fuel pressure sensor and connector three different times and it still keeps returning. I am looking to you guys for some guidance hopefully someone has been down this path or has some insight on what I might be able to do. I keep asking the question to the dealership what could be causing this failure? Surely I have not just gotten my hands on 3 bad fuel pressure sensors? My truck was in last week and I just received it back on 10/20/22 and yesterday I was coming to a stop and my truck started idling horribly and the cab was shaking almost as if it was misfiring. The CEL never came on yesterday but the traction control light did come on briefly. This cleared itself up after a short drive towards my house. I immediately called the dealer I was just at and said something is clearly still wrong. They were nearing the end of their day yesterday and I would not have made it in time for them to read any diagnostics on it yesterday but this morning the CEL came on this morning with the same P1089 code. I drove over to the dealer this morning and there was a P0300 code that was in the history which I would expect since the general description is a Engine Misfire detected. Could an injector be going out and tripping the P1089? The dealers that I have been going to say they are following GMs procedures but that is about it. I am wondering if they are heading down the wrong path with this P1089 and something else is causing the issue masking the P1089 code? I have noticed that my truck will flutter for lack of a better way of describing it when coming to a stop. It's not downshifting its more of the RPM will flutter when coming to a stop and then when stopped they will resume to about 700 and be perfectly normal. I told the dealer about this as well and they did not have anything to comment on that.
  5. Please see attached file for report. Been dealing with this for a while. Mechanics said they smoke tested and found no leaks. Fuel pressure tested at 58. Has random misfire code p0300 and lean code p0171. Has installed new, Delco cap and Delco rotor and Delco Iridium plugs. Last year tried Bosch plugs and new after market cap and rotor. Still no difference. Shows classic sign of vacuum leak as throttle increase causes fuel trims start to lower. What do you think? SavannaReport08062022_0001.pdf
  6. Hello. I have a Silverado 1500 4.8L base model with 200K miles. I could use some guidance on how to troubleshoot two engine codes that my truck has. P0101 and P0171. I erased the codes, unfortunately. This is what I have done thus far: -Inspected the Air filter (it is clean) - Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. - The MAF values are responsive to changes in engine RPM. I don't have any special tools to check for vacuum leaks. I Took live readings with my Zurich ZR8 code reader The LTFT1 and LTFT2 hover around +14% when engine warm and idling around 600 RPM. Drove around a little and LTFT1 and 2 rose as high as 21%. MAP - 11 Hg MAF reads 0.52 lb/min TPS reads 9% Update 9/5/2021: I tested the fuel pressure and it is in the normal range, 58 while idling, a bit lower with the key in the "On" position. While running the engine, In short bursts, I sprayed brake cleaner around the air intake hoses and gasket and listened for changes in the idle pitch. Admittmedly, I may not have hit every crevice while doing this. No leaks detected. What are my next steps?
  7. I started off with a search but most were for GMT800s. Just yesterday my 2009 Silverado 5.3 started throwing P0300 codes. The only real change that's happened recently is it's gotten quite hot out compared to when I got it over the spring. It's always had a bit of a stumble at idle, but nothing serious. I noticed today going up a steep incline under load on the highway, the MIL was flashing. Seems like there's a lot of potential answers for this code as well: Bad spark plugs Bad ignition coils Fuel delivery problems collapsed lifters Crank Variation Relearn. I was wondering if there's a better way to narrow this down without simply throwing parts at it or bringing it to the shop. Any help would be appreciated.
  8. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  9. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  10. Hello I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4, it has been sitting for 6 months. First thing I did was change the oil, next I drained the old gas and put new gas in. The truck would crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the fuel regulator. Prior to replacing the fuel regulator I had no fuel pressure, gas was leaking through the diaphragm of the regulator into the intake manifold. Once I replaced the above items fuel pressure was up to 50psi with key in start position. The truck fired right up no problem but, there was a very loud ticking sound that sped up and got louder when I pushed on the gas. I immediately shut it off. I checked the oil and the dipstick smelled like gas. I drained the oil and there was a lot of gas mixed in with the new oil. I replaced the oil filter and filled it with new 5W-30 Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil. It fired right up again and the loud ticking sound was still there. Oil pressure was good I let it idle for a few minutes and the ticking got a little bit quieter but, still loud. Check engine light was on and the codes were P0300 and P0200. I hooked up a Noid light to each injectors wiring harness at idle and every one was firing. I removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them, did OHM test on each one and all of them had consistent readings. I do not know what else to do from here? Any help, direction, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this. My truck has 245,000 miles on the original engine.
  11. What's the word everyone. Full disclosure, this post will officially mark my first ever post on any forum board. Over the last 20 years give or take, I've utilized the forum boards in research efforts to gain knowledge. Subsequently stumbled upon case studies that were valuable bits of knowledge that happened to be very handy long after i had read them. And on certain rainy days forums have even been an outlet of entertainment! However, it wasn't until earlier this year that i ever took the time to register an account and devuldge deeper into the community of a forums page and I honestly couldn't tell you why that is. I joined a page for info on a Saturn Vue that i've had since 2005 and though i had browsed the posting from this webpage countless hours over the years i had never been so completely stump by an issue (be it motor cars 0r any other type of forum) that i was ready to invest time into creating an account. If you think this sounds bizarre and silly you should put yourself in my shoes and kick your own tail for withholding yourself from the community and vast resources that come with joining. I am now registered to a few boards and todays the day i make a post. BLAhBLAHbLAH BLAH BLAhBLAHbLAH BLAHBLAhBLAHbLAH BLAH 1999/2000 4.3L looking @ rolling 310 k. I've owned the truck since 2003 when she still had less than 30K racked up on the OD. I recently pulled her out of the stable to get her back on the road after 2.5 years. Also just to note, this is not the first time i stored the truck for lengthy period of time. With that being said i am knowledgeable to enough to know that i dont know $h!T outside of what i know has worked for me and what has not worked over the years. While being put up or stored, depending on the reason she got parked i would make the effort to start and let run every 8-12 weeks on average and try to maintain the integrity of components that would fall victim to these situations IE- brake lines, rubbers hosing and such, fuel systems,.... In doing so i have always been able to bring her back to life after minimal post storage tinkering. Nothing a little carb cleaner and high octane fuel wasnt able to cure for her to run like she had never been stored. In all honesty, after sitting for close to 48 months ( stabil mixed in half tank of gas or more and then circulated through the motor / tires pulled / harnesses seperated and or protected from critters / cabin vented to help against mold and condensation) I aired tires up and connected the same red top optima that had been with the truck for 9 years, she started on the third key turn. Not being one to hide behind allure and taking things for whst ther are. I would have no hard feelings about how sluggish or tired she would feel in any part of the power curve as i understand this is what you will encounter on any motor that has seen milage of that sort. (ESP with me driving like I do/ OR DID WHEN I WAS A YOUNGer lol) Last time i revived the truck it was parked with a toasted 4l60e. fast forward the tranny installed and truck on the road was running but not nearly as efficient as previous revivals in the sense that she seemed to bog off the bottom and not want to accelerate/build rpm's unless i were to command WOT. At that point the 262 would scream and rev out. I had started gathering parts for a basic tune-up and aimed at completing this a few weeks before i took it the the Inspection house but all things considered it was running / idling / shifting / exchanging heat / and burning fuel / and holding fluids as good as i could of wanted. I working with a scanner on my Saturn Vue (2003, 3.0L v6 dohc 5-Speed auto "NON CVT" unicorn) and the scanner suddenly refused to display anything when plugged in. tried to reconnect an few times. key on, off, on ect. and still nothing. Strange being i had it reading code and fuel trips only 45minutes before hand. Puzzeled i decide to function test the scanner on my 1500. It worked as designed on the truck, pulled P0453 and cleared. I turned key to off position unplugged scan and went back to the Saturn. Hours later i hit the ignition in the truck and got a healthy cranking effort with no start. I didnt think too much of it i figured fuse or maybe fuel clog somewhere. after checking every thing i could with DMM @ midnight on Sunday with Monday approaching rapidly i accepted defeat and took an uber to home and then work. Further diagnosis that Monday evening determined i had no spark. No spark at the plugs, coil, cap, but the cranckshaft pos sensor was rotating @ around 200-210 so i assumed it was in the operating. Jiggled some wires around after replacing the distributer/CAP/ROTOR/COIL/TBS/ MAF, AND PLUGD ANF WIRES STILL NO SPARK. I then jiggled the wire harnesses and replaced the MAP and bingo we had spark. a few bumps on the ignition later we were running but struggling to communicate and fluXuating from low to high idle missing and choking on i belief air, but wasnt sure. I drove around from home an work a few days and logged 100miles hoping it would smooth out an i didnt. I verified connectors were in operating condition and established they were get power, scratching my head and getting SES light only for the evap P0453.. From there i checked fuel pressure (55-58psi with 15min hold time give or take, had nice 5Psi jump when key was turned off). Sprayed a entire can of carb clean around all upper intake and swapped ignition parts that were replaced out with the newly installed ones to rule out any dUds. I decided i was bored and needed to look inside the intake. My research suggested i was dealing with a fuel issue after the fuel pressure regulator. Pulled upper intake and verified injector were cycling but could use an upgrade to revised CFI system so i ordered that fine piece of monkey madness engineering and popped the lower manifold off. the coolant ports seemed to blanketed by carbons-grime-and other trash stuck to the gasket from last install, which covered approximately 60-80% of the port opening. This was the case on both front and the back of the of the intake orientation. I expected to see worse if i had to bet on it before hand (not that they good) and was surprised. Made the mistake of pulling valve covers before assessing the condition of intake/head mating. What appeared to be dust turned to coolant - oil soaked debris that had collected in the valley of heads and plenum was in fact just that. ALONG WITH PINE NEEDLES, LEAVES, AN ASSORTMENT OF ANTHROPODS NOW DECEASED, 2-HIDE N SEEK WORLD CHAMPION 10MM X 1/4" SOCKETS AND ALL THE OTHER THINGS CYLINDER WALLS JUST CANT GET ENOUGH OF LOL. MY QUESTION IS IN REGARDS TO FINDING ENTHUSIEST IN THE HOUSTON AREA THAT ARE WELL VERSED AND PROVEN IN DOING FLASH WORK FOR THE NEW AGE COMPUTERS. THIS 99/00 IS MY BEAT UP BABY THAT WAS AVERAGING 21-23MPG SINCE THE DAY I GOT IT. SHE STARTED RUNNING AWEFUL AFTER ALMOST ALL IGNITION SYSTEM BEING UPGRADED/REPLACED. Found small coolant leak in plenum along with three poppit valves in poor working condition. I will reassemble sometime this week after i rework some ports in the intake. i WANT TO DELETE DOWNSTREAM o2'S AND EGR. CAN I ALSO DELETE PCV? Need someone in Houston who can flash these off my ecu!!! i have two other motors for projects and im eager to start setting things in motion for some builds as well as being educated by guys or gals that have a good grasp on the electrical side of these things. i truly believe you are able to learn something for every single person you meet in life. IF I CANT HELP YOU, I WONT HURT YOU !!! _________ 99/00 GMC 1500 swb 4.3L vortec W(vin), 310k on OD
  12. Anyone have any advice on what would cause a 2015 silverado to throw these three codes, p219b, p0050 and p0300. My truck misses when its cold but as soon as it warms up the check engine light will go out and it'll run fine. The p219b says its a fuel injector but i'm sure it isn't that beings it runs fine after it warms up. I've run Lucas fuel injector cleaner through it several times and ran some sea foam through it.
  13. What’s up guys, Having a random cold start rough idle issue with my ‘16 suburban with the ecotec 5.3. This happens completely randomly, typically when colder temperatures outside but not always. MIL will be triggered but will go away after some driving. Some instances it flashes and then will go off. Sometimes when the light is triggered the ABS and stabilitrack light will be on and the transmission will roughly upshift and downshift. The indicator light will go away and typically the shifting will be fixed by shutting the vehicle off for a period of time and then re-starting everything will be back to normal. From what hat I have gathered U0401 means that the transmission control is not getting good signal during these times. In regards to the engine, I have between 5-20 misfires counts on all cylinders except #7 which has 80 and #8 which has over 6,000. Obviously there is a problem with #8, being a non AFM cylinder and being of random occurrence I’m thinking injector or coil pack. Any thoughts?
  14. 2007 Silverado 5.3 V8 with AFM with 180,000 miles Truck had lifter ticking sound and white smoke upon every start up which would go away after a few minutes, no check engine light Replacement list : - headgasket - valve gaskets - upgraded drivers side valve cover - valve stem seals - intake manifold gasket - exhaust manifold gasket - 8 new afm lifters - 8 new non-afm lifters - head gasket bolts - engine coolant temperature sensor - spark plugs - spark plug wires - fuel injectors - water pump - thermostat - cam sensor - crank sensor After completion of engine reassembly no longer had white smoke upon start up and no ticking sound but flashing check engine light code p0300. Code p0300 was for cylinder #1, #4, & #7 Moved coil packs between cylinder #1 and #2 to see if coil packs was bad but no change. Set engine at TDC before installing the rocker arms. All bolts have been properly torque and no parts have been left unplugged or uninstall. Any possible advice would be helpful
  15. A week or so ago I noticed a ticking after my truck was warmed up at idle. Well a few days went by and my truck started to misfire as I accelerated from a stop clearing up once i got up to speed. Along with a flashing check engine light I had the codes P0300, P0455, P0306. The next day I bought a new evap solenoid canister hoping to get rid of the evap code. After installing, I still had a misfire and a ticking coming from the passenger side bank. I plugged in my code reading and watched cylinder 6 consistantly misfire at idle. After replacing the plugs, checking the injectors, coils, and wires I thought i may be having lifter problems as cylinder 6 is an AFM cylinder. I pulled the valve cover off to check for a loose or stuck rocker, everything seemed fine. I fired up the truck and the rocker arms all looked to be operating fine. The truck also didnt seem to have a rough idle and wasn't ticking. I put everything back together backed it out of the garage and it went right back to its old ways. I cant seem to figure out the problem and was wondering if anyone else has heard of this or experienced it? Seems to be worst when I put the truck in drive or reverse and hold the brake(rough idle along with a misfire.) Any help or guidence would be appriciated!
  16. 2014 Silverado 1500 2wd 4.3l DI. 150,000 miles. Fleet vehicle with decos oil changes every 4,000 miles. Came in with a misfire. Counters showed cyl 1. Replaced plugs and wires (Delco). No change. Looked at injector balance and seemed to have a bad #1 injector. Replaced 1,3, and 5 injectors (delco) and the 2 stainless under manifold fuel lines. No change. Removed 1 and 3 plugs compression seemed very low on cyl 1. Performed induction service (BG). No change. Re-performed compression test. Much better 210 psi but still running like crap. Pulled left valve cover and removed #1 cyl rockers to close valves. Performed leakdown test. Only 5% leak at 100 psi. Help?!?
  17. 2003 GMC Sonoma 4.3l 93k miles P0300 random misfire nightmare Runs a little better after new spider injector assembly but still has random misfire code. Blinking check engine light goes off at higher rpm’s. Runs real smooth over 1500 rpm’s. Lower rpm’s get random misfire code and CAT starts stinking, motor bounces a little and can feel misfire but it’s a lot less now. Get a backfire when putting in gear (reverse or drive) and even in park when rpm’s go below 1000 and motor shakes and hesitates a second then holds idle. Doesn’t die below 1500 rpm’s now and holds idle. Slight erratic, intermittent idle due to misfire. New LIM, UIM, spider assembly with fuel pressure regulator, PCV, oil pressure sending unit, fuel filter, NGK plugs, wires, Lucas in tank, oil and filter, radiator hoses, oil coolant lines, battery, air filter, alternator, starter, ignition coil, cleaned MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Unplugged MAF while running. Made no difference. MAP sensor connector has appropriate voltage. Took out 02 sensors first and post Cat and it ran a little better. Couldn’t get middle on off. Tried for an hour, used PB Blaster. Friends scanner showed 02 sensors okay. Will checked fuel pressure again since new spider. Before fuel pressure would drop 5 psi when rev up rpm’s and increase at idle. Pressure didn’t drop when I turned it off. Something drains my (brand new) battery if I leave it plugged in so I recharged it before doing any work/tests on it. Had friend bring Snapon scanner... showed #2 spider injector not working. So replaced assembly. Crank or cam sensors?? Any help is appreciated! ?
  18. stagrlee

    201601-Missfire

    From the album: Diagnostics

    Missfire data read from my Maxidas on my 2004 Tahoe 5.3L Flex
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