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If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..

Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs. Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process.

I do have the 8 speed. Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all! I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem. I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop. I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.

Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like

Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar. One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem. Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage. He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit. I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard. I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost.

Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system. They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly. Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.

Front or Back?

Front or Back?

I appreciate the assist. Do you know where the grounds are in the cab? I have only found two so far.

I have a 1988 Chevy K2500 with a steady stream narrow oil leak at the edge of the base of the oil filter adapter. I crawled under and saw it with the engine running and oil everywhere. There are just the two 1/2 inch bolts holding the adaptor on but I question if I need to disconnect the two oil cooler lines from the adaptor so that I can get it all the way off to fix it with the new gasket pack from NAPA. I watched a video where a guy said he fixed one without removing the lines and pulled the adaptor down but it won't budge enough to full see where the old gasket is. If anyone has done this before or thinks I can still do it myself, any advice is appreciated.

do you have an 8 speed tranny

here is the high speed control wiring, i would also be checking and cleaning ground connections high speed fan control.pdf

I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers. [These may or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.] These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality, strength) than default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose

Thanks! Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s. So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out. Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc). Next up is new BFG tires Monday. Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)

Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?

How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal. I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either.

3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas.

I apologize if I missed this but hopefully, you replaced the pan with one with a drain.

I’d like to add, I have no shifting problems, no vibrations or any temperature issues. Just a noise I cannot locate.

They discontinued the tensioner pulley but there is still an idler pulley which I replaced.

How long you running each OCI in the Vibe?

Idler Pulley… from what I understand GM and Chevy trucks no longer have an idler pulley.. they stretch belts for both belts… I had mine replaced by my local mechanic last year on my Chevy Silverado 5.3 z71 LT. They have discontinued using them on 2019 through 2026 as of a Google search.

Good morning! I have a whirring sound coming from the engine or transmission area when driving w/o towing when I accelerate at 1100 rpm’s. That’s how it started. Yesterday it was more obvious while towing a U-Haul even when not accelerating at 70 mph. I could see where it may have been possibly shifting gears due to a slight grade and the intermittent rpm changes as the transmission was possibly lowering the gear down. It was making the sound multiple times but it is not constant. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulley but no change. It only does it when I’m driving. No noise accelerating while in park. Just started @ 53,000 miles. It’s not always there though. Unfortunately, I feel it may be transmission related. Any thoughts or knowledge about the 2022 tranny that anyone can share. I have 2500 miles left on my p-train warranty. Thanks to all for any help!

RAIN. It's dumping buckets. We needed it. What a welcome change...sitting here listening to it pour with my office window open. Ok, not too much. It's not even September yet, we're not finished with summer yet....