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Has anyone noticed that "What have you done to your K2 today?" is on its ONE THOUSANDTH page?!?!? Congrats to "block8head" for starting it way back on Jan 15th, 2014.

8 shy of 15K posts Delivered via my cellular device using a mobile chat forum thingy.

Came out looking freakin' awesome nonetheless.

Can I drop my truck off to you to have that paint process done to my entire truck?

Well the kit came in today. Got it installed in 10 min and it works with our iPhone 8+ even with the case on.

Teaser pic. Will install in the morning. Texas heat is killing me today lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might try giving GM customer care a call and start a case with them. Most likely they will get you a rental and throw parts at it until something fixes it or it doesn't get fixed, in which case they might do a buy back. I had to do it once and I got to trade it in for what I paid. Not quite a buy back, but at least I got out from it without any real financial hit.

Alright got my console removed. Wasn't that bad. Anyone else wanting to pull the console to add a sub this is what you need to do. 1. Lift the console lid and pry up the the console trim that holds the cup holders and outlets. I used a screwdriver and pried it at the locations below as seen on youtube videos. 2. With the trim removed there will be 2 10mm bolts exposed. Remove them. 3. Disconnect all the connectors on the trim piece as well as the larger harness and the brown USB harness behind the trim piece. 4. Remove the map pocket trim on either side of the console. They just pull straight out. You may have to move the seats around to get them completely out. With the map holders removed 1 bolt on either side will be exposed. 15mm I think. 5. Move your seats all the way forward and at the back on either side of the console near the carpet are 2 plastic cover. Pry them open from the back with a thin screwdriver. Behind the covers are 2 more 15mm bolts. Remove them. At this point you should be able to slide the console back. I had to lift mine up a bit but it should be completely free

And blacked out my chrome grill

Got new wheels put on today

Just went by there today for them to set my front shocks from 7 to 9 and added the AAL to the rear. Now sitting at 12 inches. I told them I would do their advertisement on my truck for free truck parts and they agreed, so will have the same logo as the sign on the back of my truck! And yes I have 2 inch Bora spacers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure my Ranchos were shot around 30,000. I can guarantee yours are shot at 75k, no doubt, I'd bet my truck on it. I know it's expensive, but order yourself some Bilstein shocks right now, get them installed, and drink a cold beer and smile. No need to send me a thank you note either. Just enjoy your truck!

My 2018 has an anti-sleep function and built-in seat and steering wheel massage. To activate the anti-sleep function, just get up to cruising speed on the highway. The vibrating and deep cabin rumble will keep anyone awake. The massage function is on any time the truck is rolling, it massages your back , butt and legs and the steering wheel vibrations take care of your hands. The transmission clunking kicks in ever now and again just to be sure you aren't asleep.

Yeah I remember reading that. You can either disconnect the battery or unplug the wires going to the steering. The ultimate goal being to cut power to the steering system while working on the suspension. I think the issue is if the steering system is moved during the install, it can force the electric power steering motor to move and act like a generator and generate an electric current that could damage something. It's not likely, but they're trying to eliminate possible issues. As you can see most guys around here are saying they didn't do it either because they didn't know or didn't care but ultimately did not have a problem.

My buddy ended up getting a midnight edition Z71 2018 LTZ edition, but he ended up getting upgrading to new aftermarket wheels and tires and and sold me his original tires and wheels that came with his truck. As a result, here is how my 2016 Z71 LTZ truck looks with the new wheels and tires I got off of my buddy. I love them!!!!!

Haven't posted anything in a while but just had the truck in the shop this past week for some major upgrades. 4 inch BDS with DSC Coilovers and rear leaf packs. 2 inch Bora spacers in the rear for balance. Steps sprayed with Line-X (chrome was chipping). 20x9 +24 Snow Flakes in Gunmetal with machine finish. 295/60r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. And the hidden gem behind the wheels...Wilwood brakes all around. I also had the exhaust done but it's way too loud for me so going back Monday for a muffler swap. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

Finished installing the front floor wells last night. I went with the white pods from XK-glow and they seem to match the factory. Both of the lights I've tried are very bright! have you looked into installing a dimmer?

On our '16 Yukon XL Denali (60k miles), we noticed the shimmy at 80 mph when cruising down the interstate. Started first with checking the rims and sure enough, all 22" rims had some sort of out of round condition. The dealer had a matching set of 22s in stock with factory wheels that we had to purchase for $3000 and that fixed it. Then came the drivetrain shudder at 1200-1500 rpm when at speed (50-60mph and coasting in 8th gear with AFM engaged) and the engine AFM is switching from 4 cyliinder to 8. Both my Yukon and Sierra have this studder, which feels exactly like a slipping torque converter. I've taken my Sierra (17,000 miles) to the dealer 5 times since 14,000 miles now. They replaced the engine mounts, fixed a broken valve spring (wtf), flushed the tranny, replaced the torque converter, and reprogrammed the ECM to learn mode. Both vehicles have the 6.2L with the 8 speed tranny. I've driven them in manual to override the AFM and it doesn't seem to help. It seems there are multiple issues, both electronic and powertrain-wise going on and I'm not confident they'll get it fixed. There's a lot of ideas within this thread in how to fix with aftermarket parts, but it seems there are varying differences in what exactly each vehicles studder/shimmy/shake is. I've been a die hard GM owner due to their reliability and I just think the quest for getting too cute in winning the mileage game with competitors has made the future of GM trucks an unreliable risk I'm not sure I'm willing to take, especially at the price tags we're paying for these vehicles. I wish I had just kept my '06 Duramax and drove it into the ground.

No way in hell I'll go for a '19. That said, when the time comes to replace my '16 shaker I'll do in depth research before buying, which I did not do before buying my '16. 90% of the trucks I've had in the past 40 or so years have been GMs. All but my current '16 were either trouble free or fixable. Yeah I know, every brand has its issues and prolly every manufacturer might or will try and wiggle out of a warranty fix. But GM has basically said flat out go fark yourself.

I just installed this kit on my 2018 regular cab 2wd. Took me all day Saturday and some of Sunday but I took my time doing it. I’m using both spacers on front

lol we'll I can't fix something that's not there. I'm majorly OCD, my last truck had the slightest drive line vibration from being lowered 3/5 and I knew it was there while others never noticed it. I can assure you this truck, as well as LTZTom's have not the slightest hint of a drive line vibration. Being the type of person who has slammed every vehicle i've ever own, during my research on these new trucks people aren't experiencing drive line issues until they lower the truck 5-6" in the rear. 3/5 F150 SLAMMED G8 lol sorry just a reason to post a few of my previous rides lol