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Now there's some fancy double talk. Let me see if I get this right. The level is at the bottom of the hatching and you add a quart (because the range of the hatching is a quart) it brings it to the top of the hatching but.... it's not down a quart?

The bottom of the crosshatch wouldn't be "1 quart low" in the published manual because the range of the crosshatch is the allowable range. The crosshatch is approx. 1 quart or liter so that when the oil level is at the bottom of or below the acceptable range you can safely add 1 quart or liter without overfilling.

Bought my 2021 Silverado RST Double-Cab 2 months ago, and have done a few moderate upgrades. She has the 5.3L L84 V8 & the 8 speed 8L90 Transmission with the Z71 Off-Road package w/skid plates & a couple of different comfort & convenience packages. I fixed the cab rear window leak already - it wasn't a bad leak, but it definitely needed to be addressed and I took care of it in very short order. Post here: Added the PPE Transmission Fluid Thermal Bypass Valve, "Range" AFM/DFM Disabler Module, swapped out the stock transmission fluid with Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP Transmission Fluid, and upgraded the engine oil with AMSOIL 5W30 & Long Life oil Filter. I just wanted the truck to be mechanically sound, so I addressed all of the common, known issues that I was aware of. As of now I have about 37,600 miles on the clock. I swapped out the chrome factory side steps with some "Real Truck" off-road side-steps in black bedliner finish, I like that they fit nice & tight, up to the bottom of the door-sills with very little space in between and your feet will NOT slip off of these steps - even when they're wet. I also added the Weathertech hood/bug deflector. She's nothing fancy, photos below:

For a 2000 model - GMT 800 the pattern is: For a 2014: Fron seat mount spacing looks identical - enjoy.

I purchased these two 6 quart boxes of Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP for my 2018 GMC Sierra with the intent to change the fluid, but I never got a chance as I sold the truck in 2021. Both boxes have been in my garage ever since and are new and have not been opened. Asking $50 for local pickup/meet in the Western PA area. I can probably ship, but that would be at the buyer's expense.

Double trust, huh? I hear ya. Side note, one can get trust off the internet. I belong to a Pontiac message board such as this. I sold a complete running Pontiac 455 that I built in the late `80`s. Most won`t touch a complete engine. Especially an older one. The dude offered me $500 more than I was asking. He paid the truck freight to Lubbock TX. All I did was build a crate for it. I told the dude he was ballsy. He says, "I trust you".

I’ve gotten lazy in my old age. But I have trusted service technicians I trust.

I did a search outside of this forum and came across a thread from this forum from two years ago which was amusing but one I recall now from a trusted member who had himself had to add a quart on his brand new truck to bring it up to near the level plug level. Then after accumulating 5000 or so miles on the truck he pulled the cover to drain it out and wiped out the bottom of the diff housing and put the factory cover back on and in his case it took exactly 4 quarts to bring it up to within that 4/10 of an inch below the fill/level check plug, far more than the GM spec. That is a big difference between that GM spec ( which is why the GM diffs are below the level they themselves say they should be when coming out of the factory ) vs what amounts to around 8 pints of oil. My own truck when I first got it home from new, I had not measured how much volume mine took since I used a hand pump on a 6 gallon pail of gear oil to top it off but I had measured it by using a bent wire on the flat shop floor after the truck sat overnight and a ruler and it was exactly 1" below the bottom of the fill hole on the rear diff. That fell right into line with what others have measured from a factory filled rear diff on these HD trucks, however the GM instructions are to fill from within between 4/10" of an inch or up to the bottom of the fill/level check hole as the full range. So that is why it alarmed me when you mentioned not seeing any oil in that window although I wasn't sure if that diff cover held the exact same amount as the factory cover so can only speculate its probably very close to retain the same oil flow characteristics over the top that the ring gear provides with the factory curved cover vs some of these odd flat back diff covers ( the whole video Gale does on that about some of the goofy after market covers out there ).

Can I ask if you are having issues with the current coils? With all of my years around LS engines, the stock coils are the best hands down. If they aren't giving you any problems, do no change them. They can go 200-300k miles easy without a hiccup.

Call an auto recycler, t g ey zhoukd have an interchange data base. The data base goes WAY back and is an urreplaceable asset.

Techron is a fuel injection cleaner and my point is it won't help prevent carbon build up on your intake valves. I am not aware of any product that can prevent carbon build up on a DI engine.

5.48 regular still here at Kroger. Stations here aren't getting the memo but the owners are probably tired of programming prices up/down with every headline and futures gyration. WTI Crude is over 80 again but seems mostly unfazed after the exchange of fire in the Middle East over the weekend and ceasefires falling apart. Enough already...

Added the denali cluster to the duramax today

Well here it is have only pulled it home not loaded yet but looks to sit ok have to see how it pulls in a few weeks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk