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I mean either way works. My transmission temps stay in the 130-150's just cruising around in the summer, pushes into the 160-180's if I tow but they settle lower on longer drives.

Needs a manifold gauge hooked up and the pressures read. If you don't have one, time to take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.

I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back. When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking? Where do you hide the jar of teeth? I would never.

your body automatically makes more blood for free so it's NBD...

What CamGTP said BUT I would suggest doing this instead of pill flip, as heat KILLS ATF.

Hit mid 90's today. Even at the boarder of Canada and up by Duluth it was in the 90's. Going to be like this all week. Sure it's nothing like the south seeing 100's but they do say it's a different kind of heat here with all the lakes/water and humid days.

Pill flip on the transmission cooler lines is a 100% must do thing too.

I would argue that GMPartsDirect has that info wrong. The service manual for R+R the lower arm and for adjusting camber/caster, none of the steps say to discard and replace the nut or the bolt. The only part that gets discarded is the plastic cam adjustment retainer that is in the eccentric from the factory. The LCA nut torque spec is: First Pass: 180 Y (133 lb ft) Final Pass: 90 –105 Degrees That is WELL past 130ft.lbs per the TSB that you reference that does not apply to this scenario. As for your clunk. I'd say it needs to be diagnosed thoroughly. Assuming the LCA hardware is tight, you could have a problem with the UCA, sway bar end links, etc.

I know this old thread but I just replaced the left side engine mount on my 2018 5.3 2wd and it was a pain. A quick search showed that it was probably going to cost around $600 to $900 to get it replaced. I researched how to replace it and decided to do it myself being that I'm retired and have the time and tools. What should have taken a day took me 4 days plus a couple trips to my chiropractor and some blood. Why a mount failed at 150k miles is beyond me but such is life. Peace

Linear? No, you are correct. Not linear but it is measurable. Here is my latest project. The yellow line is the entire Blackstone Historical Universe for this motor platform on the OEM recommended 0W20 oil. Results fall well below the Industry standard (after break-in) of no more than 5 ppm total wear metals. Thus one could reasonably expect this motor to last quite some time on this weight and evidently most do. One the web site for this platform enthusiast holding on to that warranty report making 200-300K miles but with a good deal of engine issues, heavy oil consumption (by as early as 80K), multiple timing chains and noisy valve gear. So yes, 0W20 will get you there and then to the bone yard. Longest one lasted 400K miles and was on display at White Bear Mitsubishi. The Orange line is a fellow enthusiast, one I am familiar with, experiment into the heavier grade lubricant of 5W30. He's a Mobil 1 fan changing oil at 5K miles. He's passed 200K with the same timing chain, fairly quite valve train and light use of oil. Something like a cup between OCI's. His compression test are within 2 psi of new. Note lower total wear metals v the 0W20. There is a second fellow on that site with a bit less documentation that just did 300K on 5W30 in this platform that just published his compression tests at 5-8 psi under new. I think there is good argument there that at minimum bore and piston skirt wear is nicely abated by this heavier choice. He still 50 psi above the factory minimum and very in balance hole to hole. Light green in Raven, my unit. 5W40. Jury is out on how long it will last as it just passed 50K in under two years. However wear metals are once again vastly reduced. It uses no oil yet and the mechanical valve train is amazingly quite and it runs exceptionally cool. I would be hard pressed to believe that such a drastic reduction in measured metals does not equate long term to a longer lasting motor. I only offered the examples I have DATA for and people I actually know and trust. So once again, I'm not telling anyone what I THINK happens. I providing the RESULTS and the context. My batting average would have most testing me for performance enhancing chemicals...wait!...I am! Now I've ran every Honda with 5W20 but again a high polarity oil with an exceptional HTHS value. High enough to exceed the SAE 30 minimum. I just ran across an 5W30 with a HTHS value of a SAE 40. And there in Atlas lies the key. It isn't the SAE grade but the actual HTHS values and shear stability index results. Looking for other outliers we could include those oils so light as to not support Stribeck but work due to enhanced AW chemistries. If you lean on these then the OCI needs to be short enough to not deplete their effectiveness. The Toyota Crown calls for a 0W8 but as it is not yet sold here in any volume Toyota has cleared weights as high as 0W20 for warranty enforcement. A testament to the absurdity of 'heavy oils damage motors'. Yes there are a few weird Spray Bore motors that don't like heavier oils due more to the hone finish. Special cases so no blanket statement will stand.

Keep in mind that anytime the dealer gets access to your truck they likely install any updates for software throughout the truck. It probably has nothing to do with this, but it’s another variable that should be considered in troubleshooting.

Yes. If you haven't had a tank replaced yet for heater failure, its time. Those 3 codes are all for the DEF heaters in the tank. Not gonna fix DEF heater codes. OP needs a tank. 2020-2022 is the most failure year for them. Correct. You "should" see a poor quality warning and it would have codes stored for DEF quality. Fluid swap won't fix OP's issue. Correct. Once the tank is replaced, you have to command a couple of emissions tests via scan tool. DEF tank level reset and a reductant tamper warning test.

A young newlywed couple wanted to join a small church. The pastor told them, "We have special requirements for new parishioners. You must abstain from having sex for two weeks." The couple agreed. Two weeks later they returned. The pastor asked them, "Well, were you able to get through the two weeks without being intimate?" "Pastor," the young husband replied, "I'm afraid we were not able to go without sex for the two weeks." "What happened?" inquired the pastor. "My wife was reaching for a can of corn on the top shelf and dropped it. When she bent over to pick it up, I was overcome with desire and took advantage of her right there." "You understand, of course, that this means you will not be welcome in our church," the pastor responded firmly. "That's okay," said the young man. "We're not welcome at the grocery store anymore either..."

At this point I just want them to up the quality control. Both V8s will probably be a good improvement over the now 12 year old Gen 5s we've had, but they NEED to get the reliability up especially after the 2021-2025 window range with the current ones. Any word on when/how the new trucks will be revealed? Detroit and Chicago auto shows have come and gone, which leaves NYIAS or perhaps some sort of special event like the T1s had. I'm thinking at this point the Gen 6 engine gets announced right before or as a part of the NCM Corvette Bash this year late April because 2027 Grand Sport, that's only if the trucks don't show up between now and the Bash. We do know the Gen 6 engine will be recycling the "LSX" RPO codes as LS6 seems to be pretty confirmed for the Corvette 6.7.

I'm not in the market ofr a new truck, but if I was, I would not buy a year one model of a new engine design.