camcamaro1991

I seen some guys, mostly Jeep guys use these. http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-On-Board-High-Performance-12-Volt-Twin-Air-Compressor-CKMTA12-P21341.aspx I thought about adding one as well, back in my younger days I was roadside tech during my first year as a MB tech, they made us do it to get experience. I always need air, so many folks never check their tire pressure until its too late, esp.. the spare tire. At home I have a 80 gallon quicy air compressor, on the road I have a tiny compact 12volt tankless air pump, takes a bit long but works. It would be nice to see someone make use of all that open space between the outer & inner bed after the rear fenders, if you have rear fender wheel well guards its fairly clean in there.

Anyone have the Borla rear split dual exhaust w/ this sway bar? I don't see that there's a lot of room on the driver side to install it with Borla split exhaust.

Does this look right?

Low light

huntr117, did you get GM OEM primer-ed parts painted? or already painted off ebay? for the mirror and handles.

Keep us posted and please get some paper work about the recall I haven't got anything about it on my truck. I never drive my truck had it since April 1st, only 400miles in 4 months. Recalls don't expire they still have to fix them even if out of warranty. Dealerships typically require a RO to order the transmission, did they not provide you with a loaner car? I visited the McKinney dealership many times, lets just say I caught the sales teaming lying to my face so I skipped on buying a vehicle from them. Sewell seemed to proud of their trucks but they are honest and they worked with me, they made everything right in the end. That goes a long way in my book even after the sale if anyone needs a point of contact please PM me.

Mike who is your home dealership, I got my at Sewell Dallas GMC.

I am the same way, they don't sale the cable or their software to allow us to do ourselves already asked this, btw BCM is sensitive. MVI and Chris White are both vendors on here, Chris is under the name GTX or GTP...... I don't remember where Chris White's physical location, I believe around the upper East coast area, maybe the Boston area don't quote me on that.

I know MVI & Chris White/GTX.... work together for BCM updates, He can update your BCM to allow auto up, not sure if it works for the rear.

Gary what soap are you using?

Abearclaw, what is the part number of the GMC emblem/wheel center cap? BTW awesome job paint matching and the Z71 is a nice touch sir.

Disable you powertrain grade braking (unless you're towing), sucks you have to do it every time you cycle the key. IMO it drives much better.

Damn man, why would you run T409 up north? I bet the stock exhaust holds up better than that, hey at lease the exhaust tip was T304 and its in much better shape so that's what the Borla will be like. I appreciate the pics to prove what you were saying about the MBRP for others to see. IMO, MBRP is junk and over priced exhaust. I have learned to have to spend money to save money. little google search, The most frequently used stainless steel in performance exhaust system is T409. Found in Gibson & MBRP exhaust and many stainless mufflers, this mixture has enough chromium and nickel to resist corrosion. But, it lacks the strength to be used for fasteners. Next up in the ring for corrosion resistance and all-around toughness is the T304 steel used in Borla exhaust headers and Corsa exhaust. This is the highest quality stainless steel used in the automotive world. It is most often found in exhaust tips. Super tough and nearly impervious to rusting, T304 has around 20% chromium and 10% nickel content in the alloy. In fact, the ferrous metal content is so low that magnets won’t stick to it, making identifying T409 from T304 very easy.

OP, these are the types of things, engineers, dealers and tech's don't talk about, sunscreen, hand moisturizer, make-up products, and your own hand oils (aka your alkalinity level). If its not the first 3 items, then my next guess is you may have high acidic levels in your body, you will need control your level mostly for health reasons. also high alkaline level/s can damage items as like chrome and mirrors.

Well I was a tech for 7 years, 6 years at Mercedes Benz, working at MB taught me a lot esp... AMG cars v12's bi-turbo's, superchargers, complex dynamic seats, ABC hydraulic suspension, & CANBUS systems- (high/low level signals) the technology I worked on was light years ahead of what is currently available at GM, can you image 10 years later!!! GM is just now getting some of the tech that's been available. To me GM products are like Legos, friends come over to the house and like are you are crazy would you do that to a brand new truck..... , but I prefer the simple machines less failure, a quality product over its useful life time, that's less failure prone. When I see a GM owner, I see a smart costumer, esp... the lower cost of ownership. With that said, there are few good techs, hence few (I always got stuck with warranty BS work, rattles, suspension noise's) as they don't make money b/c they care to take their time and not make a mess (finger prints on the head liner is a no no) / or want to do a quality job, the first 4 years I flagged 42.5 hours a week management told me increase my hours or they would let me go, I told them to F off (it went against my moral believes of just doing a good job and not screwing over the customer). well I managed to survive 2 more years. I have had enough sense to move on, now I work on stuff at a personal level and for close friends only. On the flip side I worked for a very high line local dealer, everyone here knows their name, sadly I worked with messy crooks everyday. I will admit I am not perfect I did make mistakes along the way but I learned from them. I have seen lots of auteurs work on their own stuff, mostly to save money, along the way they tell themselves they can do it better work, few can. I always volunteered for the annual MB club to come in the shop and work on their own cars, the guys on the forums (yes, that applies to all of us on here) You could see in 5 minutes all the mistakes/safety issues, even when changing out brake rotors. I have a very advanced level of training for automotive gas/diesel and even became a self taught HP tuners user to learn more about engines vs software, help me diagnose better, to know what the ECM wants to see is very helpful. Sorry you had a bad experience, I know the feeling all too well. When I take my GMC truck in and I get treated like crap. Good thing is nobody can get anything by me, the dealer respects me but they also hate me as well. Can't BS me on anything automotive related. Lastly, larger GM dealers have specific line workers, meaning they focus only specific tasks, Interior/trim, powertrain, HVAC, or brakes/suspension. so your vehicle maybe passed around by a lot of techs for a few complaints or repairs and it only takes 1 bad apple to ruin your experience (I was bumper to bumper tech, it came to me, I worked on every issue) some advice, it doesn't take long for a customer to find out if their service advisor is full of it (if you don't like your current one, ask for another), then once you have a good advisor ask him for the his best tech to work on something, he will only know 1-2 techs.... trust me. The better techs will more likely be at the Cadillac dealers for obvious reasons. rant over carry on

Hate to add salt to the wound, take the brand vehicle to same brand shop! Non-GM techs working on GM vehicles equals the carnage you showed us in the pics. <- (there are exceptions to this rule, but its a "best practice's" & common sense. Not sure if you know this, but automotive technicians are generally paid by the amount of work they produce known as “flat rate” compensation. So speed of completion is beat into them, quality work not so much. BTW you have lots of rust starting to form on your frame, by the looks of it you must have a northern vehicle with all that salt & that engine bay is filthy! TLC The selling dealer should have sent the vehicle over to GM to have the recall's preformed before selling you the truck, most states its illegal to sale a vehicle with a open recall. lastly, why would you return back to the Jeep dealer after something like this? just lick your wounds and move on. Free oil change.... nothing is free!

150 is a lot yes, yes I plan to add power consumers on my truck. I love JUICE, no mods as my truck is on order. I think my 2013 is only a 140 amp. I have driven handfuls of 2014/2015/2016's as loaners when mine is in the shop. I typically get them for about 1 week each, so its test time when I get a loaner using some 110 stuff at idle/running around it needs some help, esp when running A/C and vented seats in stop and go traffic. I have looked online for all the Denso info... I cant find any RPM to power output graphs for the 150 or 170 amp rated ALT's. GM does state it fits all the EcoTec3 engines. To option it with the truck requires the reg cab snow plow package, included with cab lighting previsions, so hence the high powered LED light bar guys which there seems to more and more now, I am sure some guys could use a bump, even if they added the kicker subwoofer sound gate kit. GM - 22949467 Denso - TN104210-6870

As far as options when ordering go its available for the snow plow package (I will edit the title and remove my first question). 2nd question I did ask if anyone has "upgraded", I can go order on off Amazon for $200 right now.

More power, I have seen every generation GM Truck, Camaro, Vette owner upgrade their alt. this is no different than any other. Previous GM history most these upgraded alt...offer more power, and are normally better at heat dissipation, if anyone has pics side by side, or graphs of the RPM to power output that would be very helpful esp... vs the stock 150. where did you find the info about it being a plow prep only?, ACDelco and GM list it as a upgrade over the stock 150amp alt, for all 3, 4.3,5.3, & 6.2 EcoTec3 engines.

Keep in mind the dealers around me are strict, I don't want any issues come warranty time. Not worried about price, can get it at cost. I prefer OEM, I have ran aftermarket alternators in the past. I would save more coin by swapping the voltage regulator & bridge rectifiers, I am not afraid of taking them apart.

Has anyone upgraded to the 170 amp alt? Its only 20 more amps over the standard unit but every little bit helps. If there any GM techs on here, any feedback is helpful about reliability or warranty issues. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/gmc/sierra-1500/22949467/2015-year/denali-trim/6-2l-v8-gas-engine/electrical-cat/alternator-scat/?part_name=alternator