HondaHawkGT

The Toyo AT2's are great tires and are quieter than the ST Maxx. The ST Maxx made more noise but the tread and sidewalls are damn tough. I'd take the Coopers.

Agreed 0 offset is perfect on a 9 inch wide rim with these trucks.

I had Cooper ST Maxx's before my current Toyo's. I liked the ST Maxx's and would have gotten another set when I upgraded to 33's but couldn't turn down the open country's. The ST Maxx tread is great and looks great. They don't throw nearly as many rocks as an AT tire will. They look tough too.

Hahaha! I take it you haven't crawled under a Ram and checked out their frame rust lately, huh? Go take a look. Around here, they all rust as fast as the others. Don't want frame rust? It's your responsibility as the owner to maintain your truck.

Depends on whether the tires are P-metric or LT's. His are LT load range E's with a max inflation of 65 psi. You'd be correct if he had P305/55R20's.

Are they P305/55R20's or LT305/55R20's? Typically LT tires would have 40-50 psi, sometimes more when towing or hauling a lot weight. P tires are normally less than 40 psi. Looks like Falken might only make an LT version in 305/55R20.I'd start at 40 and adjust it from there.

I'm with Big Matt on this one. I sold mine for 1300 because it was cash upfront and quick. Plus the stock Continentals sucked. If you're like me then your time is valuable. Too much time wasted dealing with flakes and shady contacts on craigslist to be worth it imo.

I've heard complaints on the U-bolts. I guess they're chinese junk metal. I wouldn't trust them to attach my axle to the truck.

Thanks I've always preferred the big tire look. The factory 20's would have been trashed by now judging by my last 17" combo. The northwoods will tear P-metric tires up and bend a 22's in no time lol.

Not bad. The body panels on these K2's tuck in quite a bit so even a tucked in setup gets plenty of mud thrown on the sides without mud flaps. The Toyos throw more rocks than my Cooper ST Maxx's unfortunately...

They stick out just under 3/4". Here's the best picture I have at the moment.

It took me a while to choose between lift blocks and the add-a-leafs. I don't sense any axle wrap but it seems some guys on here are more sensitive to changes than others. If I ever add any more lift I would probably go with an AAL. The nice thing about the blocks is that they were really easy to install - did it in my driveway with jack stands and a floor jack, only took a little over an hour. I swapped out the oem rear shocks for Ranchos custom selected for the 2" lift.

Rancho Quicklifts raised the front end 2" on my trucks, and left me with roughly 3/4" of rake. Looking at the truck on level pavement, you'd swear the front end was higher than the rear. I swapped the 1.25" stock rear block for a 3" block in order to bring the back end up a bit more. I have 1.75" of rake. The purpose of this is so the truck doesn't look overloaded when I put more than a bag of dog food in the bed. Most guys that install rear blocks with a level kit share my reasoning.

Any leveling method requires an alighment, you're changing the geometry of your suspension. The quicklifts are loaded struts. They come as an assembled unit out of the box.

A spacer would be the stupid way to go. Atleast the quicklifts would have adjustable dampening rates.

285/70R17 Toyo Open Country AT2 17x9 Level 8 mk6 0 offset Rancho Quicklift (2" lift) + 3" rear blocks (1.75" lift)

Damn I can't find a used Wrangler TJ that isn't rotted out here in WI. Must be a regional thing. I noticed the other day that there were a couple guys with frame rust on their new 2015 F-150's. So much for painted frames. I'd still take paint over wax.

This is a pretty overblown claim that you've read. I've applied FF 3 times since I bought this truck and have had zero issues with it "taking the wax right off" like some swear it will. I'd be happy to provide more pictures. After coating the wax, it became slightly softer and seems to almost self-heal now, but still sticks to the frame just fine. The last thing you want is the factory wax to become hard. Hard wax likes to become brittle and either peel away frome the frame like we've seen in this thread, or worse, wick water and road salt between it and the steel frame, rotting the steel while looking like it's still protected by the coating. I was just under my truck last week and found large areas under the bed that I missed while applying the FF and those areas look just like COP TZR's frame. The wax is flaking away and peeling at the edges of the cross members. So now I have to scrape all the wax off, apply rust converter, paint it, and hit it with FF. Why would I apply the same shitty wax that failed to do it's job the first time, not only on my truck but every guy that's been to this thread for help. That's just stupidity. It's not like the K2XX trucks suddenly have an issue with wax peeling off the frame that GMT900 trucks didn't have. Look under any GMT900 truck in the Midwest or Northeast and it'll be pretty obvious.

Yep. Avoid 12346501. Completely ineffective. Especially when the frame has already started to rust beneath the original wax.

If that was the case GM would just have the dealer drain it when the car was delivered. Makes absolutely no sense to instruct the owner to drive 500 miles before finall draining their overfilled engines.

Yeah I should have worded that better. If I were the buy a 6.2 Silverado/Sierra, I'd be changing the oil at 500 just like the bulletin for the Corvette. There's obviously something going on with the manufacturing process or during break-in that GM hasn't come out with but wants to guard their flagship vehicle against.

No they really are requiring an oil change at 500 miles for C7 Corvettes. It's likely that the oil is picking up contaminants from the manufacturing process or engine break-in. Maybe the old timers that would change the factory oil extremely early had the right idea after all.

Thanks! I was set on Method wheels but these have really caught my eye.

I searched custom offsets for that size and a few 2013 trucks came up. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1204/wheel-offset-2013-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/12806/wheel-offset-2013-chevrolet-silverado-1500-flush-leveling-kit-custom-rims

What kind of wheels are those?