HondaHawkGT

That's probably why Ford is trying to tamp down all the new hype from Ford fans that think the engine might end up in a Mustang. It's obviously not designed for a modern Mustang. GM has spent two decades slowly perfecting the LS family for both trucks and sports cars. Ford has a hard enough time going from one version of an engine to an updated version of the same engine. Restarting development of a pushrod engine after decades of trying to scrub their lineup of pushrod engines might be tough. Hopefully they kept a few of the old timers around that worked on the 351W. The fuel economy difference between this 6.6 and the 7.3 will be noticeable for sure.

The oil pump on these engines is naturally more noisy than a gerotor oil pump. Our engines use a vane-style oil pump and the earlier version of the pump made noise no matter what. Probably due to the spacing between vanes, which can create pulsation noises (harmonics) that are heard but doesn't mean there's anything wrong it. It's similar to the noise you'll typically hear from a big hydraulic pump. It's up to you though. I don't blame you for wanting to do something about it. It's hard to judge what's normal and what's not. My pump is noisy but the noise is similar to what it was like when it was new.

Transmissions don't get hot enough to drive off moisture completely. Especially since the trans fluid goes through a cooler before returning to the pan. Even then, some of the moisture will remain inside the case and be reabsorbed. It's the same reason why brake fluid degrades over time, eventually corroding the brake lines from the inside out, as well as lowering the boiling point of the brake fluid. Just because you live in a region with low relative humidity doesn't mean the fluid can't pull moisture from the air via the case vent. It might take longer than somebody living in Washington state, but it will still happen.

It's a bad move to kill the Volt off IMO. The Volt was really starting to rebuild the perception of GM reliability in crowds (the Toyota Prius types) that typically dismissed GM vehicles in the past. Especially when they see news reports like this: https://insideevs.com/chevy-volt-468000-miles-odometer-video/ It boggles the mind how GM hasn't helped the guy out with his battery issue. He could have kept going well past 500k miles at the rate he was adding miles. That would have been some of the best advertising you could ever ask for. I guess they think those terrible, worthless "Real People" ads are enough to get the job done .

If you look further down on the page, all the GM V8's they listed are older Gen IV engines. They don't list any of GM's current V8's (L83, L86, LT1, etc). It's a sponsored advertisement designed to present itself as a legitimate news article. I believe the issue they're referencing actually had a TSB for it way back when the GMT900's were in production. It's not relevant to the K2xx trucks.

There are well over 4 million Gen V (2014+) engines with AFM - GMC Sierra, Chevy Silverado, GMC Yukon, Chevy Suburban, Chevy Tahoe, Chevy Camaro, Chevy Corvette, etc. It doesn't take many AFM lifter issues to create the perception that they are plagued with AFM problems. Combine that with the fact that when someone has an AFM lifter issue, they often register here and vent about it. That has the effect of concentrating the number reports of lifter failures here, and distorts the reality of how reliable the Gen V system is.

No you will not require a new tune IMO. The airflow change is mostly at idle and it's still air being measured by the MAF sensor.

The console shifter in the 15-present Colorado looks like a leftover part from a 2005 Malibu.

Oh crap I was thinking of the last gen trucks. I forgot that the PCV routing was changed for 2014. I was mixing up the new trucks with the way the older 5.3 trucks were routed. The big plenum on a stock 2014-18 5.3 has two upstream points feeding the left and right side valve covers. The gas enters the valve covers and exits through a port below the throttle body enters the side of the intake manifold. Sorry for the confusion. The cheaper EE catch can has you routing from the valley port below the throttle body, to the CC, then to the side port on the intake manifold (on drivers side). I'm not familiar with the latest 4.3's PCV setup.

Just to be absolutely clear, I am not in any way claiming that the CC blew out his rear main seal. I've seen rear main seals fail on brand new vehicles of any brand. I worked with a guy that got tired of problems with domestic brand trucks, so he bought a brand new 2015 Toyota Tundra and needed a new rear main seal before his first oil change. It happens. I'm just pointing out that guys that use a modify their PCV system and use a CC in climates where temps are routinely below zero can have unintended consequences, including stalling while you're driving like it did for me. Under normal conditions there's a vacuum created by the pressure differential created by the throttle body. When the system is partially or completely blocked, blow-by can create a pressurized crank case. Normally the oil filler cap vent should vent this gas (or the oil dipstick should do this if it doesn't). My stalling was caused by the disruption that an iced up PCV line has on idle air and what the MAP sensor is reading. I would stall while coasting at very low speeds when the engine would try to drop down to idle.

The PCV system draws metered air (air that's been sensed by the MAF) from the intake, pulls it in on the passenger side valve cover, exits the driver's side valve cover, and enters the intake manifold. The CC is typically installed between the PCV outlet and the intake manifold although there are some newer CC designs that change the way the system is plumbed. I have an early EE can that's much simpler than the later (and much more expensive) CC that EE came out with.

It's more of an issue for those of us that live in regions were below zero temps are normal in the winter. Some of us northerners won't have an issue with the CC icing up if they drive the truck long enough to burn off most of the moisture. BUT if you do a lot of idling to warm the truck up and only drive 5 or 10 miles before getting to your destination, a lot of that moisture leaves the crankcase and fills the CC up with water condensation. It will ventually turn into a solid block of ice. Even where it's mounted can make icing problems more common. The guy in the video below mounted his in front of the radiator. It probably works awesome in the summer since the CC is getting tons of cool air to help pull more oil vapor out of the gases leaving the crankcase, BUT it's going to have constant problems with ice in the winter as long as he keeps it mounted there. Even if he didn't did too much idling and short trips, it's probably going to ice up a lot.

The cooler line could just be because they had your transmission pulled. Probably not the noise you heard. Have you listened heard any ticking noises coming from the vacuum pump? I could see where you might be hearing the pump making noise when you downshift since engine RPM would rise and make the pump spin faster. It's on the driver side of the engine, down by the crank pulley.

YUP!

Yeah I removed mine this fall for this very region. Unless you check your can a minimum of one a week, it'll fill up with ice and cause the crankcase to pressurize. I know a guy that did the exact had the exact same thing happen to his Elite can on his F-150 3.5eb. I was lucky. The first time mine ice shut it caused the truck to stall, so I went right for the can knowing it must have blocked the PCV.