HondaHawkGT

S22+ screen up, charges every time.

I have never tested my 2024 LTZ with the same 3.0 Dmax, but it's extremely quiet. Almost to the point of being dangerously quiet and lulling me to sleep. I've been in plenty of current gen Rams and they have not sounded any more quiet. My 2019 RST had the foam strips move out of place which can cause wind noise. They are located ahead of the front doors, wedged between the front quarter panels and cab. If they move out of place it allows air to rush into areas around the door. You may also want to check your door seals. From your link, a Chevy High Country was the 3rd quietest trucks they have ever tested.

Well you could pop the cover off and check things out inside. I changed my rear diff fluid at around that mileage. You might be able to see abnormal wear or you could even check the pattern. It's not terrible to do. Plenty of videos on youtube for those wanting to check the mesh pattern.

This might give you an idea of what is involved. https://www.transmissiondigest.com/magna-powertrain-mp3023-3024-transfer-cases/ Starting at Page 34 https://gearsmagazine.com/resources/issues/47a56_2011_5_all.pdf

A lot of guys I know use the Archoil fuel additive but it might be totally unnecessary for this engine. The big thing is changing the oil often with the correct oil. Don't do what some youtube guys have done and use regular Dexos 0w20. Use good fresh DEF and don't let the truck idle for long periods of time. Like mentioned, stick with fuel stations that have high turnover of their fuel.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10187625-9999.pdf

Toyota has had this exact same issue for years. It's hit or miss when getting them to cover repairs. I hate that manufacturers use these cheap crimped rubber oil lines.

I live in the rust belt. The rotors GM has been using on the 2014+ trucks have been excellent when it comes to resisting corrosion. Of all the brands I have owned, these have been the best. I wash my truck just a few times all winter and the rotors are still 98% rust-free. Not sure about the performance brakes with brembo calipers though.

Just so that people are aware, there are MANY electronics repair companies out there that will test and repair circuit boards regardless of what it is. Northbridge Fix is one I know of off hand. Failures like this tend to be due to corrosion or capacitors failing.

I know a few guys with the previous gen trucks and a few of them have made it to 200k without a bad AFM lifter. Not sure what they're doing different to not have a problem. Maybe it's because they change their oil every 3 or 4,000 miles lol. All manufacturers are having issues. The new Tundra is having as many engine failures as the current 6.2 is it would seem. Lots of Tundras with destroyed main bearings at 20-30k miles. Toyota even has issues with the 3.5L they've been making in various revisions for the last decade. There's a big list of 2016+ Tacomas with 3.5L engine failures despite being well-maintained. Ford is using junk rubber belts to spin the oil pump on the 2.7 and 5.0 these days and you have to pull everything including the timing chains off to change it. If you don't change it often enough, your engine will die. The youtube channel "I Do Cars" has torn down a few Ford engines with the belt and they all looked bad for the mileage and for how long Ford insists the belt is good for. Plenty of other issues that their engines have had lately... still can't figure out how to make dohc engines that don't have cam phaser rattle. Ram has always had issues with the 5.7 eating cams and lifters too but from what some people insist, the best way to limit your chances of that happening is to not let the 5.7 idle too long. I know a few guys with the current gen Ram that have been happy with them otherwise. Not deflecting from the issues with the 6.2. GM has obvious issues in their house when it comes to those engines. I have a co-worker that was telling me the other day that their relative bought a new 2023 with the 6.2 and it failed on the 2 hour drive home. Seems strange that so many manufacturers are having bearing failures like this.

Watch this video at 14:05 and see if it sounds like your issue. He mentions that they eventually determined it's a loose ground. https://youtu.be/VBvGSEEn8es?si=xEgF6t-0fRFiAhge

Hyundai denied warranty coverage for years and thousands of people were stuck with the bill on Theta II engine failures. Maybe they recently began to warranty them, but I saw mountains of angry comments from people that paid out of pocket for an engine replacement for their practically new Hyundai/Kia. Even today they're dragging their feet and telling owners not to park their Theta II powered vehicle in their garage because of the fire risk.

Catch cans will mostly capture water and a tiny amount of oil/combustion byproducts. Mine would freeze solid in the winter and it was extremely annoying. If I didn't drain it every 2 or 3 days, it would be so full of ice that it blocked path between the intake and PCV. IMO, if you live in a region that's cold, catch cans are waaay more of a hassle than they're worth. I'm thankful I didn't damage any seals driving around with blocked off PCV system. If intake buildup is really that big of a concern, a PCV delete setup would be a better way to go. Plenty of sports car guys do it. Auto manufacturers would do it, but the government doesn't look kindly venting crankcase gases to atmosphere.

Dodge was putting those on truck frames since the mid-2000's. They are not particularly good at canceling out vibration from an engine with deactivated cylinders. Hydraulic engine mounts and cab mounts help a lot more. Ram uses vibrators to cancel out MDS vibration: Despite both attempts, you'll still see plenty of Ram owners complaining about MDS vibration. Some even disabled the active vibrators and had vibrations go away.

Mine would on rare occasion go into a deactivation pattern at very light throttle between 25 and 45 MPH that would have noticeable vibration. The odd thing is, it only does it when I use 87 octane ethanol blend gasoline. When I run 91 octane pure gasoline, it never seemed to do it. So I just run 91.

Ram put vibrating electric motors on the frame that will inevitably die a corroded death after a few years of exposure to road salt, and will no doubt cost several hundred dollars to replace with new genuine Mopar vibrators. Kind of like their air ride system solved the squat issue with their trucks, but created a bunch of new reliability issues as the system has a reputation for failing and being quite expensive to fix.

https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/11/best-worst-automaker-recall-rates/

Defective batteries has been a common issue with AGM batteries these days. Between all the auto-start/stop and electric steering stuff, they get put under a ton of stress. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine bay gets insanely hot when the engine does a regen. Is the battery wrapped in insulation to shield it from heat? If not, I would try to cover it up with battery insulation and heat reflective material.

Your buddy must not realize just what junk the Ram Ecodiesel is. Legendary for bearing failures and emissions equipment failures. Then FCA was caught putting defeat devices in the computer code, they were sued, and the government forced them to remove the emissions cheats. Trucks with the emissions system "fix" drive like crap and the emissions systems fail even more often than before. FCA never has discussed what they did with the latest version of the Ecodiesel to beef up the bottom end, suggesting that they didn't do much.

Yeah 20 mile trips are fine. I mainly meant it as a cautionary thing for anyone considering the LM2 and are kind unsure about it. Some people do a ton of short trips in these newer diesels and end up with a ton of problems because they don't understand just how bad it is for the expensive filters on these things.

The autostop shutting off the engine for 30 or 60 seconds isn't the same as hopping in a cold truck and driving for 5 minutes, getting to the destination, and letting it sit 8+ hours. Doing that 5 or 6 days a week, the exhaust system never gets hot enough to keep the exhaust system cleaned out. The Ecodiesel guy was constantly going into regen because 90% of his driving consisted of in-town strolls and short trips. The autostop feature shouldn't be on this engine IMO, but most guys won't own the truck long enough for the consequences of letting the engine turn off and on like that. GM knows that too (as do all vehicle manufacturers forced to use autostop these days).

Nope not saying it is. Just wanted to throw that in there just in case he or anyone else thinking about getting a truck with this engine does a lot of short trips.

No more than it would cost to replace the timing chains or belt on a DOHC engine, which is a scheduled maintenance item for most of them and take as much or more work to change. Ford has used a similar wet belt oil pump setup for roughly 10 years now on one of their engines.

The best way to destroy a modern diesel is to start it up, drive a few miles, and shut it back down. I watched a guy with a Ram 1500 Ecodiesel destroy two engines plus exhaust system doing that. He's drive across town to work every day. If you have a habit of doing short drives like that, diesels with modern emissions systems are not for you.

That TK guy seemed to think that all diesel engines should have a normal engine temperature of 190F and was freaked out that his 3.0L Dmax even got to 210F. Odd that he never showed the 2nd truck hit 240F. He showed it climb to 220F while cruising around the city, but that appears normal for this engine due to way the active grille shutters are programmed as well as the active cooling sytem.