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HondaHawkGT

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Everything posted by HondaHawkGT

  1. 16's won't clear the brakes.
  2. Haha well just looking at the kit, I recognize the Festo quick fittings for the sight glass. They wont hold up to the temperature extremes in the engine bay. They're mostly plastic and I seem them fail constantly in my line of work. They were never intended for that kind of application.The blue PVC tubing is just laughable. The heat, oil and gasses from the crankcase will degrade the tubing pretty quickly. Having a coalescing filter in the catch can makes a big difference it's effectiveness and I doubt this has one.
  3. Honestly, I'd apply a rust converter to stop what rust you have, remove the flaky bits of wax, paint it black again, and coat it with Fluid Film. AC Delco waxes and rubberized coatings are garbage. Just google it a bit and you'll realize just how worthless this approach is. You'll exacerbate your problem and flush money down the drain. There's no random pattern of GM trucks that have crap undercoating. There's just trucks that have had the junk undercoating fail and there's GM trucks that will soon have the undercoating fail.
  4. Of course a 2015 Ram will look immaculate. My coworker's Ram looked immaculate 2 years ago and his frame looks plenty rusty now. The factory wax is shit. Some guys on here will tell you to just keep putting the same GM wax back on. It's a waste of money and time. The wax will continue to harden and flake off. Either Fluid Film it or completely strip the wax and apply something like POR 15.
  5. http://www.theruststore.com
  6. Sadly I've seen a few bad Delco oil filters lately. A coworker had one blow apart on a 2014 Silverado Z71 CC a couple weeks after buying it. The filter failed at the crimp where the can and base plate meet. Also some AC Delco filterss are changing over to the E-core design. You can tell if it's an e-core iff the filter model ends in an e....PF63E, PF43E, etc. I'm sticking with Wix or Baldwin filters from here on out. I wanted to alsopint out that GM officially added a 500 mile oil change interval for the Corvette back in December. A few Auto magazines with long-term cars have had their engines grenade. The consensus seems to be metal debris from the manufacuring process as the culprit.
  7. With all the upgrades and suspension geometry changes you guys have done, has anyone upgraded the tie-rods? The stock ones seem wimpy enough for a stock half-ton let alone a lifted truck with 33's or 35's. I've been searching for a good hour now and the few HD tie-rods I've found for GM half-tons say they aren't compatible with our electric steering for some reason.
  8. I see that Zone has a 3.5" Adventure Series lift kit with heavy UCA's. It's only listed for NNBS trucks but I was curious, anybody know of a K2 running this kit? It seems like steel knuckle K2's are so similar that it might work fine. The UCA's in the kit look solid and it's a diff drop setup so it seems like a decent setup. http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-3.5in-suspension-lift-kit-chevy-gmc/c29
  9. Yes and not just road salt but magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, even beet juice (acidic). Sure you should wash the salt off but when your truck is a daily driver it's just not possible to keep the undercarriage clean all the time. Combine that with the mediocre wax undercoating that flakes off when you spray it with a carwash pressure washer and you're screwed from the beginning.
  10. No problems on mine. If anything it's done more to help keep the factory wax on. The factort stuff was too hard and pulling away from the surface of the frame within months of buying it. Hard brittle wax doesn't do much good as a rust preventative.
  11. From what I've read Krown and Fluid Film are extremely similar. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266716
  12. Search "Fluid Film" on Youtube... Here's a few examples: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JJ_esqxCKA It's not perfect, it'll collect some road dust, but your frame won't rust. You can also spray it in body panels and hard to reach areas. I spray mine with a cheap Harbor Freight LVLP sprayer in the spring and fall. Only takes an hour from start to finish. Using a wax similar to the factory stuff GM uses is a waste of money. Look at any GM truck with that wax as the sole undercoating and you'll see it doesn't work. I have a coworker that just traded in a 2012 2500HD that had rust bubbling up from underneath the wax. By the time he realized what was going on it was too late and dumped it off on the dealer.
  13. Ford released a TSB on carbon buildup in Ecoboost engines. They warn against performing an induction cleaning. Apparently chucnks of carbon break free and blow through the turbos. Ford is instructing dealers to replace the heads if there's too much carbon.
  14. Not sure on wax but for FF or oil, just spray it oil. It'll soak through thinner dust. You can even spray it on any light surface rust and it'll prevent the rust from spreading or advancing deeper into the steel.
  15. Spray it with oil or fluid film once a year or twice a year. I spray mine twice per year with Fluid Film. My frame has zero rust, it's just dirty from using it for truck things. I washed my truck once all winter. Some guys swear up and down that FF will make the wax fall off. As you see the wax is still there and actually it's holding up really well. Do not put rubberized spray coating on. Research what rubberized coating does over on Bob Is The Oil Guy. It's the fastest way to make your vehicle rust.
  16. Damn that looked pretty terrible. I jusst noticed the pictures and info you had posted in a different thread. The attempts GM had the dealer do were pretty unacceptable. I'm glad to hear they worked with you on a trade deal.
  17. It made it slightly softer but never lost adhesion. Just one spot in the rear wheel well that looed suspicious before I even started putting FF on it. I'm not concerned about the wax. Every GM truck I have seen in person with this wax is begins to harden and crack, exposing the steel. Or water finds a bad spot in the wax that isn't visible and rust spreads under the wax. Last summer, while putting on my exhaust, I noticed that the sharp edges of all the drain holes on the bottom of the frame had wax that was peeling back and rust had started to spread underneath. To be honest I wish the wax wasn't there at all because I would have been painting it with POR 15 and would never have to worry about it again.
  18. Bad fuel? These trucks have a pretty low idle as is. A little water goes a long way.
  19. The only truck I've seen rust like that was my coworker's Toyota Tacoma. After the recall he bought a new one. It's rusting just as fast.
  20. Can you show us a few pictures of the truck that give us context? I'm north of you and my Aug 14 build looks lole new despite living north of you. That is definitely not normal. I would expect rust like that after 5 years without washing off road salt.
  21. I have been using fluid film to protect against rust and so far so good. I had a 5x5" spot where the wax didnt seem to be bonded to the metal. Painted with flat black paint and reapplied FF. I've been reapplying every 6 months or so. Not for everybody but works for me.
  22. More info and pics on the truck: http://www.socalsupertrucks.com/gallery.aspx?src=slides.php&pointer=1248&ref=113&oref=2#.VRHrxsso7qA
  23. Cooper St Maxx 265/70R17 (10 ply)
  24. I've been running ST Maxx 265/70/17's for the last 4500 miles. They're great so far and surprisingly quiet for how agressive they look. They were $30 cheaper per tire vs the Toyos.
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