HondaHawkGT

Toyota moves at a snail's pace when it comes to update their trucks. The Tundra at least 10 years behind the rest of the industry.. It was designed to be competitive with the GMT800 trucks, which makes it even more insane that Toyota hasn't replaced it with something better.

GM said it was set up to fit a 33" tire stock. I and a lot of others assumed they would come from the factory with 33's but it looks like that's something you have to do on your own. I'm guessing they stuck with the slightly smaller tires for fuel economy reasons since the truck has an EPA fuel economy rating separate from the rest of the 2019 lineup.

Yeah it's strange that they still don't offer a larger tank. The F-150 comes standard with a little 23 gallon tank and Ford wants $500 for the 36 gallon tank, but at least the option is available.

I can't find one example of a GM representative or GM press release stating they designed the truck to run 35" tires. GM's own press release mentioned that the truck was designed to run up to 33-inch tires. "All models introduce a modern, powerful design with a strong dose of Chevy Truck DNA. For example, the “CHEVROLET” name stamped on the tailgate recalls iconic Chevy trucks of the 1950s and ‘60s, while the integrated dual exhausts and up to 33-inch tires reflect modern customer preferences." http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/en/chevrolet/home.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2018/jan/0113-2019-silverado.html

I guess you didn't notice all the caps locked ranting the creator of the thread made. Or all the misleading gear ratios he used as an example. 3.73's is a special order axle ratio that would drive the cost of an F-150 as high or higher than the cost to regear a 2019 GM truck. The Ram offers 3.92's but the truck is going to weigh close to 400 lbs more than a GM half-ton and it's powered by an engine that hasn't changed in nearly 10 years. They might look at it, but they aren't going to do anything about it. Guys have been complaining for the last 20 years that the wheel well openings are too small to fit 33's, but GM has never done anything about that. Guys have been complaining about the wax coated frames more than they've complained about axle ratio options, but the 2019 GM half-tons still have wax dipped. GM has to meet CAFE regulations or pay a hefty penalty and the axle ratio's they offer are the result of that. That's why you won't find a 2018 F-150 10-speed truck with 3.73's sitting on the lot. It's a special order option that ultimately costs as much as a regear job would. I provided sources and data to back up my comments. The only thing I was wrong about is that you can order a 2018 Sierra with the 8-speed and 3.42's without the max tow package. You special order the truck with a "premium" package loaded with a bunch of junk (like cheap looking chrome clad 22" wheels) that adds $7-8k to the price, but yes you can get the 5.3+8-speed+3.42's without the max tow package. My bad I guess. Most guys would just save $6k by paying the $1500 or so for the max tow package if they wanted a 5.3 + 8L90 + 3.42's. I'm just a realist that realizes that truck manufacturers have to meet CAFE regulations. The requirements under CAFE get stricter each and every year.

The other thread was nothing but a massive tantrum. It was a rant fest over axle ratios, filled with lots of misinformation. This is thread is primarily for reference.

Considering all the problems with Ford's sunroof, maybe GM is avoiding that option. When the sunroof on their aluminum trucks isn't leaking, it's either rattling, refuses to open correctly, or decides to open itself up. Features like moonroofs or sunroofs always turn into guaranteed dealer visits down the road.

I made this thread as a reference so people know how the new transmission and axle ratios compare to the 6-speed and axle combos. It's not meant to be a debate thread.

For 35's, most guys driving K2 (14-18 trucks) recommend at least 3.73's if you have a 6 speed transmission. A 2019 truck with the 5.3, 8 speed, and 3.23's has better gearing than the 6-speed with 3.73's and comes close to the gearing advantage of the 6-speed with 4.10's. It will have no issue with 35's for 99% of the population.

Ford's aspiration for the days before the fuel price spike (of 2005) is going to be their undoing and GM is playing it smart by not following them down that road. To me, GM seems to be following a strategy closer to that of Toyota: fuel efficiency first, performance 2nd, off-road worthiness last. It sucks that the Blazer isn't a RWD SUV but if it were, it'd be priced out of reach of most of the public. The 2020 Bronco is going to be equally overpriced and disappointing. Now that Ford is killing off their sedans, they'll need to compensate for their shift in CAFE average. The Bronco might have a low base price, but the stuff that 99% of buyers will expect as standard features will push the price well above $40k for a moderately sized SUV. The off-road worthiness will be disappointing and Ford will cut corners to keep weight+cost in check. The Bronco will easily hit $50k in the upper trim level.

17's are the way to go. The tires have more rubber but cost less haha. Plus that extra sidewall does wonders for the ride. I would have destroyed my factory 20's by now after all the stuff I've done with my truck.

The 6.2 + 10-speed + 3.42's is going to be a rocket. 400 or so pounds lighter, and all the gearing it could ever need. It might not win top spot in TFLT's Ike Gauntlet, but for us closer to sea level, the truck should be a beast. Now that the 5.3 isn't stuck with the 6L80, it has a much better chance at showing what it can do. I've been impressed with the Gen V 5.3 in my truck, hopefully GM gives the 8-speed a tune that can make it shine. The axle ratios look solid like you brought up. It's like GM made the 6L80 and 3.73's the minimum for the 5.3 and the 8L90+3.42's are close pretty much the equivalent of the 6L80+4.10's, which is nuts.

Here's the latest from the 2019 order guide. Here's a quick comparison of the final drive ratio of a few different transmission and axles 2019 Standard Transmission & Axle The 8L90+3.23 replaces the 6L80+3.42 The 10L80/90+3.23 replaces the 8L90+3.23 I added the 6L80+3.73 as an additional reference. 2019 Max Trailering Packages The 8L90+3.42 replaces the 6L80+3.73 / Carries over for 2019 from the 2018 Silverado LTZ/Sierra SLT CCSB 5.3 + 8-speed + 3.42 Max Tow Package The 10L80/90+3.42 replaces the 8L90+3.42 for the 6.2L. The Max Trailering Package (GU6) is a 9.76" axle on LT and RST trims when equipped with Z82, G80, and 18" or 20" wheels. IBC is included. I added the 6L80+4.10 as an additional reference. 2018 Silverado/Sierra 6.2 vs 2019 Silverado/Sierra 6.2 If there's anything wrong let me know and I can fix it. Just trying to put the information out there to help people see how the 2019 drivetrain options compare. Interesting to note that the order guide seems to suggest that all 3.42 axles paired with either the 8-speed or 10-speed will be 9.76" regardless of whether you have the 5.3 L84 or 6.2 L87. I'm assuming (not 100% positive) that the standard 3.23 axle ratio will also be a 9.76" axle. Important information to consider for those that might regear their truck since R&P's for the 9.76" axle are still limited.

LOL Toyota says it's normal for their engines to burn a quart every 1200 miles. Ford says it's normal for the new 5.2 V8 in the Mustang GT350 to burn up to 1 quart every 500 miles (and that's with 5W-50). 1 quart every 6000 miles is pretty good, especially since the lighter 20 weight oils can lose 8-12% just due to volatility.

Here is what Oreilly Auto's website had for specifications for the M1-212. Burst Pressure (psi): 400 psi Bypass Valve Pressure (psi): 18 To 22 psi Filter Media: Cellulose/Synthetic Blend Flow Rate (gpm): 11.2 gpm Gasket Inside Diameter (In): 2.39 Inch Gasket Outside Diameter (In): 2.76 Inch Gasket Thickness (In): 0.37 Inch Gaskets Included: Yes Inside Diameter (In): 2.98 Inch Removal Nut Included: No I have use PF-63E's, M1-212's, Wix 57045, and Fram Ultra XG10575. The Fram filter's bypass setting was 9-15 PSI. I have also switched back and forth between 0W-20 and 5W-30. No issue with 5W-30 other than the lifters being a bit quieter and the oil pump slightly noisier (still functioned perfect at all times).

Column shifter. I also really, really hope they use a folding key. Even my GF's Equinox has a folding key. A standard key+key fob swings around and rattles against the steering column. Annoying as hell man.

The 2016-18's are so ugly it's the primary reason for GM's fullsize sales have been falling every year since the end of 2015. The 2019 is a definite step in the right direction. At least the 2019 trucks will have a genuine off-road package instead of the joke that the Z71 aka "sticker and Rancho shocks package" has become.

You must make sure it is absolutely rust free. Any residual rust will cause poor adhesion with the factory wax. Even oily residue will cause a poor bond. That's why I have not been an advocate for the factory wax. Fluid Film works well for me, but I don't spray my frame with a pressure washer in the winter. I only use one to spray the salt off the body, brakes, etc.

It's the oil pump. The Ecotec3 engines (and wet sump LT1) use a variable displacement vane-style oil pump. Mine has made the noise since day 1. http://www.underhoodservice.com/variable-displacement-future-oil-pump/

I've seen 2015 F-150's with plenty of rust on the frame. E-coating isn't much better than wax dipping. Well, at least Ford's supplier doesn't do a good job e-coating the frame. I'd love to see frames get epoxy painted. Epoxy paint is excellent.

If your frame wax is intact and it's still nice and soft, I would leave it alone. Just make sure to check on it once or twice a year. I would be willing to bet that if your truck was put on a lift, the bottom edge of the frame will have spots where the lift rubbed the wax off. I would check for rust there, clean off any rust you might find, then re-coat the area with the factory Nox-Rust wax. Also, check the area where the spare tire contacts the frame. The spare tends to rub against the frame and promote rust.

Being a leased truck, I would bet that I was never washed all winter long. The frame wax is junk though and is the primary cause. Mine has little flakes of wax coming off the first year I bought it. Luckily I caught it early on. You can either lift the bed off and attempt to strip off what wax is left and clean the rust up, then reapply a better frame coating such as POR-15 or Chassis Saver. The other option is to spray down the frame as it is with an oil based product. I use Fluid Film for its lower toxicity and its ability to creep into tight spaces that paint can't reach. Oil and Fluid Film will soften the factory wax, so you don't want to pressure wash the frame as it'll accelerate the peeling of the factory wax. I had a patch of wax come off, exposing clean steel. I hit it with rustoleum (mostly for looks as it was in the rear wheel well) and re-coated the area with oil. The oil works by soaking into the wax and rust, providing a moisture and oxygen barrier (just like oil on a gun barrel or cosmoline on new brake rotors), stopping the rust from spreading. Toyota guys swear by it (if it works for a Toyota, it'll protect anything). As your frame proves, the factory wax is going to peel off no matter what you do. Reapplying the factory wax will actually cause the steel to rust even worse because now you're providing a place for salt and moisture to continue to eat the steel away. It'll look okay though, which is why some guys want to reapply the factory stuff-- out of sight out of mind. The same goes for rubberized undercoating. If you just spray it over the factory wax and rust, it'll continue to rot underneath but it'll look ok.

Wow that rust is nasty.You definitely won't see structural issues for at least a decade IF you don't address the problem. I've seen Toyotas with 5 or 6 year old frames that rotted away. The issue with Toyota frames is that they're an open C frame that collects mud and road salt, the metal is thinner than the steel in competitor's frames, and the corrosion treatments Toyota specified were sub-par. Granted, even back in the 80's Toyotas were famous for terrible rust issues. You can address your rust quite easily as long as you don't just try to cover up the rust by being lazy and re-applying the junk factory wax.

You could try showing your dealer this letter about the defective radiator. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/194376-letter-cycling-thermostat/?p=1895870

100% sounds like an exhaust leak somewhere along the line.