Silverado-Hareek

Freezing should only be an issue if the can is too full in which case that would be a problem in warm weather as well. I've been draining mine every 750 miles roughly and getting about 5 oz of crap out.

I really don't think it makes a difference. The temperature difference in the corner of the engine bay versus closer to the engine isn't enough to make liquids condense better, especially with the temperature of the gases running through the interior of the can. If it was like a 20 or 30 degree swing, MAYBE but it just doesn't seem like enough to matter. The biggest thing that affects the can's function is the amount of internal surface area of the can that the gases make contact with and this is increased with baffles and filters, etc.

The check valve doesn't keep oil out of the intake it keeps back pressure from a turbo charger from going through the can in reverse and pressurizing your crankcase thus blowing out the oil seals in the crankcase. You don't technically need the check valve because you don't have a turbo but I agree, you paid for it and it should be in there as an extra layer of protection. I would call them up they should send it out to you free of charge. Just a minor over site. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hear yea but it's pretty simple. Some guys say it takes 30 minutes to do. It took me more like an hour because I was going very slow and taking care not to harm anything but it really is a pretty easy job.

I've never done anything to a vehicle ever other than change a headlight bulb and I managed to install my RX catch can. I know you can do it haha

I read somewhere that Toyota addresses the valve buildup issues by having a special combination port injection/direct injection engine design. Leave it to the Japanese to figure out something better.....as always. Can anyone confirm this? I'm having a difficult time finding information on the internet but I'm also at work and can't really look into it right now.

Yeah that's interesting but I'm still wondering if it makes a real difference or not. Have you thought about building an isolation or insulating type box around the can maybe similar to what a cold air intake has around the filter?

This makes sense in theory but I question the practicality of it. The internal temperature of the can won't vary much(if at all) at the rate of the crankcase gasses passing through it and the temperature in the engine bay building up as you drive. Maybe if the can was mounted say at the rear of the truck under the bed it would make a difference but shifting it 1' to the right and still keeping it in the engine bay, I don't know I don't think it will make much of a difference at all. The bigger difference maker is the amount of surface area inside the can that the gasses can make contact with in order to slow the vapors down enough to cool and condense. I'd be curious to see the test data though to learn more.

Yep you have it routed correctly. I felt the buzz in my pedal too after installing the catch can. As fondupot said it's from the can being mounted to the break booster and the interior of the can shakes/rattles as the gasses pass through it and this get's transmitted through the break booster to the fire wall and down to the accelerator pedal. I will say after about a 1,000 miles the vibration settled down though. I'm assuming it's from the interior parts of the can, most likely the filter media, getting some oil on it and dampening the shaking around that is taking place on the inside. It's still there, but not as bad. I can live with it and I'm happy with the results of the can so it doesn't bother me. Especially since it doesn't happen at cruising RPM's, just under light acceleration.

It's been reported in this thread by users that no it will not. I'm skeptical though and if something were to happen to the engine I personally would expect GM to say something about my catch can depending on what went wrong. Has anyone with a catch can run into any issues with their free GM oil changes?

You have the 5.3 and the PCV hose connects further back on the engine so you won't see oil at the intake/throttle body. Mine's dry as well. You probably would see oil if you had the 6.2 though. Still the oil is getting in there on those valves I'm sure.

I have no noise with my 4 auto mechanically speaking. (I do have the high pitched electrical squeal discussed in another thread that has to do with the 4 wheel drive knob/circuitry). I have not used 4hi or 4 lo yet. I do remember on my 2007, 4auto was silent but 4hi had a sound as if something new was engaged mechanically (the front drive shaft obviously) but it wasn't a bad noise like a grinding or anything like that, just the noise of something else working. I expect to hear something similar in my 2014 when I use 4hi but so far, 4auto is silent....like I'm driving in 2hi.

I've learned over the years from personal experience that if you buy cheap tires, you'll have a lot of weights on the rim to achieve balance. Buy more expensive quality tires and there will be less weighst on the rim. That is a completely un-scientific observation of my one truck and 3 sets of tires so take it for what it's worth. I'll be springing for BF Goodrich or Michelin tires as soon as these Goodyears are ready for replacement.

Wow that's crazy man. I'm assuming you're in one of the northern states. I always hear people talk about the amount of chemicals they put on the road up there but I've never seen anything like that before. Do you hose out your engine bay often?

I agree I think a lot of the problems people are having in the 65+ mph range are poor tires coupled with stiff suspension that can't absorb them. True that for some it's the rear end assembly and others it's undetermined but I think a lot of it is the bad tires. And if they keep swapping them with the same crappy tires it's not going to affect anything. They need to put some nice Michelins or something on there to see how that affects it before ruling out the tires. I've determined my slight vibration shows up when the outside temperature is in the 45-55 degree F range and the tires sit at that temperature for a bit. If it's really cold out there's no vibration and during the summer heat there's no vibration. I attribute that difference to the summer heat really softening up the tires and the extreme cold shrinking the tire materials and reducing the internal pressure to a point that the imperfection in the tire(s) is somewhat masked or dampened. If you have the violent vibration shown in some videos that's something else though....definitely driveline related. Mine is a slight vibration in the steering wheel.

How many miles did you have on the can and did you ever try to clean it out? I read somewhere about spraying half a can of carburetor cleaner on the inside, shaking it up, and then letting it drain completely to clean the inside out. This is per RX but they said you don't really have to do that as they have about 60+ thousand miles on cans without any performance loss. Not sure how they measure that though unless maybe they cut one open to look at it.

My only complaint is I didn't install my RX can sooner. The thing has been working great!

Awesome yeah I see it now I didn't look closely enough at the left side of the picture. Is that salt/chemicals from the roads all in your engine bay?

If you look close at the edge of the picture it appears to be running along the edge of the engine bay and back toward the front of the engine. Guessing this is a 6.2L engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep this looks more like what my RX can has been catching. Thanks for the pictures. This can seems like a good alternative to the higher priced ones. Amazing how much of a difference the filter media can make but it makes sense in theory....The more surface area the gases touch the more oil/water is likely to condense and fall to the bottom. That is my one complaint about the RX can how it can't be opened up and inspected. They claim you don't need to but who knows. All of the competition provides the ability to open it up so I dunno......

This. The problem lies in the inherent design of a direct injection engine. It is not unique to any make or model vehicle.

Why the PM lay it out here man. I've been impressed with the performance of mine so far. My only complaint is the outlet port is at a slight angle so I suspect the guy that drilled it didn't have it plumb but it's solid as a rock and has worked great for about 1,400 miles so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are you getting now?

I can't remember where I read this but the oil gauge will jump around because the system is running through some pressure tests. It does this once every engine on/driving cycle. If you accelerate or drive during this test, the test will stop and resume the next time you come to a standstill which is why you may be noticing this at random times when you're stopped. As long as your pressure stays around 40 for the most part like it should and your computer isn't throwing any codes or dash lights, I don't see a need to worry.

Well it's doing it so I don't know.