qwank

I think I'm going to install a transmission (transfercase in my truck) spacer. The angle of the drive shaft at the transfer case is too much IMO. The spacer Belltech gives you is for a 2wd. They want you to use some sleeves for a 4wd but I don't like that setup. I'll probably make my own copying the 2wd one but making it longer to fit the transfercase.

well that sucks

Same here. I think it looks so good because they basically copied the Cheyenne concept truck skirts. Even the wheels are 6 spoke z28 copies. I think I'm going to look into getting these if they aren't ridiculous money and they do have the front piece for 16+ trucks, although I think the sides would work with the stock front.

Look up SCA performance. It looks Like they make the whole skirt kit.

I was like, i paid for parts to go 4/6, I might as well go the whole 4/6

He sent it to me, I'll post it for him lol

we had two at work and they parked them under the only two trees on the lot. The water management drains clogged and The beds were full of water when a customer finally came in to look at the a few months later.

Yes, MRR T228. 22x10 That blue truck looks more like Lovelessjl's truck. LOL maybe he'll post the pic from that angle.

Weird, I don't find them too stiff.

Thanks, man! yes, I did replace the upper control arm bushings to get my camber in spec. It was a huge pain in the ass to press the old ones out, even with the tools that Belltech supplied.

If you're using all Belltech stuff I would leave the shocks at 2'' if you are going to go 6'' in the rear. I'm only 3/4'' higher in the rear with shocks at 2'' and 2'' spindles in the front. I even took the last 10mm ring out of the right side to level on the front side to side since my right side was 3/8'' higher than the left. he last 10mm only dropped it down the 3/8 to even it out. so you might risk being a little lower in the rear if you set the shocks to 1''. Look at my pictures and decide for yourself.

you'd be surprised how many people come into the dealership and complain about this.

2800 miles. took the 10mm ring out of the right side shock and it got rid of the lean and both sides are the same height now. Also dropped the rear down to 6, so altogether I am pretty much 4/6 now. Installed offset upper control arm bushings and set my alignment. Did my second warranty oil change too since I had the truck in the shop.

you were right, I took the back down to 6''. this time I'm done for real now though

Only the Suvs, which makes no sense because they are they same part numbers for the pickups.

Most likely the condenser leaking

I would use the Belltech 2212FF for a 3'' drop.

hahaha I guess that's true

Well the right side was dead nuts on but the best I could get the left side was -0.5 so I adjusted the right side accordingly. My caster is wicked high but like I said, that's not necessarily a bad thing. Truck rides nice and drives straight, I think I'm done messing with the suspension. On to the next project.

I'm rocking the stock wheels again until I get this all sorted out since I don't want to risk chipping the 22s with the alignment heads. Here's what my specs look like with just the toe set for now and the set up for pressing the bushings out

Probably, the bushing kit was only 60 bucks though. Do you have the arms on your truck?

I had 2 hours after work to tonight to try and get my bushings in, remove the 10mm rings from the drop shocks and get an alignment done. Let me tell you, these bushings were miserable and fought me the whole way. I had to use a combination of the adapters they came with and the Snap on ball joint press adapters the get them out. The press adapters didn't want to stay straight and it wasn't as quick as I thought it would be. Putting them back in was imposs9with the press and I had to pound them in with a hammer and the install adapter they came with. And they were tight. I measured my 9" between both and put them back in. It took me an hour and a half to get to right side done so I only did one side, since I had to align it before I drove an hour home. I set the rear adjusters to the full out position and the fronts to the midway position before the alignment because that's how the they were previously set. After I measured everything the right side camber was dead nuts on and the left was - 1.6. I decided to just set the toe for now and go home since I had no more adjustment on the left side. Oh, and with the 10mm out of the right side but still in the left side my front is the same height now left and right, so I'll probably leave the left strut alone.

I wonder if correcting the caster will also bring the wheel back to the center of the wheel well

I got my offset control arms bushings in today. The kit came with the removal and install tools which is nice, just need to have a ball joint press. I think I'm going to bring it into work tomorrow and throw it up on the alignment rack to see how close I can get it with the stock bushings. Were all of you able to get camber in spec at 4" drop in the front? I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the 10mm rings out from under my spring cups to get the front down another 1/2" or so and then put the rear at 6".

yeah, some kits come with the self tapper type, mine came with the screw in style. It came with nuts too but there's no way to get them on there.