Readylift changes the angle of the a arm. Which bis supposed to change angle and give you better life. Better it does not affect ride . Height. The moog will would be at a factory angle. Cognito is supposed to make top notch products. Uniball joints are the way to go but they are pricey. Rough country also make arms for lifted trucks as due most of the lift companies. I would give you the same advice i gave the last guy. Put the factory control arms back on and give them a try. The good thing is control arms are easy to change. Although you shoukd have it realigned if changing control arm styles
Iceonly , Did ready lift verify that you bought the correct kit for your truck? Gm has used 3 different upper control arms on these trucks. The reason i would think it is the wrong kit would be the tire size change is neglible. Obviously this a design issue as you replaced the a arm. The good news here is that you should be able to leave those spacers in there and just change back to the factory arm and have no more issue. All the new a arm does is change the ball joint angle. So that the ball joint doesnt wear out quickly. My previous generation gmc ran a 2 inch level with significantly larger duratracs o er 60k with no issue on factory a arms. My currenty truck had a two inch level for 1 year and no runs a 5 inch lift for the past 5 years . No ball joint issue. Factory control arms.
Malibu, You have 500 pages of people that have a difference of opinion. If you or only doing a level going to 3 " will stress your ball joints. Hence the reason for the upper control arm. The ride will suffer . It will make it more stiff. The lower control arm will sit at an angle during the resting position . It will put stress on the CV joint and lower ball joint as well. When I had my 2010 I ran a 2 inch level for 5 years even that made the ride more stiff. When I bought my 2014 I ran the same 2" level and put 275/65r20 Duratracs technically 34.1" tire on with stock rims. It barely rubbed the wheel liners and I just tied them back. Wasn't happy with it and went to a 5 inch lift. Alot of people will tell you different things. Personally I wouldn't do a 3" level. Like I mentioned before everyone has their own opinion and money and skill set weigh into it.
Running the 5 inch bracket kit on a 2014. 50,000 miles on kit with zero issues and still running the same tires. My a arms are steel. I installed the kit myself and then had it aligned. I run the factory 20 inch rims though . There are zero reasons why this kit would ruin ball joints. If the installer did it correctly the factory angles are the same with the bracket lift. Not sure about the 2017 but cognito and ready lift offer upper control arms for a 2014.
Mine definitely settled. When I first put it on I was over 6 inches in height difference. The rake in my truck is because I put an add a leaf in the rear. Otherwise the kit would sit pretty level. I like the rake myself . I do tow from time to time also so it helps. I only change the rear shocks. I think they were the Rancho 7000 series for their 6 inch lift.
Just about any knuckle kit that I have seen widens your stance. I have the Rough country 5 inch bracket kit. Maintains the factory stance. I have had it on since October of 2015 with no issues. My Goodyear Duratracs have about 45k on them and have worn evenly. I can't complain. It does take a bit of work. But it was worth it. The kit cost me 1000.00 at the time. I did end up changing out the rear shocks as they sucked and were very harsh . If you look way back in this thread to around October 2015 maybe November I did a write up on the install.
Nmyron, What you are talking about makes no sense. I ran the rough country kit 2inch with stock rims and tires with no issue. Nothing gets changed with steering geometry. Basically all you are changing is ride height by lengthening the strut. So if you took the stock truck and jacked it up with a jack you have the same affect. All that should have changed is camber. If everything is stock except the level nothing should rub. I ran a 275/65r20 on my level and had no rubbing except the fender liner which gets tied back. I know the 2017 trucks got different uca's but it shouldn't matter. If a level caused a rub I think it will rub without the level also.
As with anything it takes longer the first time. Should be able to do this in 1.5 hours tops on a floor jack and way less than that if you have a lift. As with alot of projects the internet can be your friend as you have found. If you can slide the connectors off without touching the locking tab . You broke the locks. Otherwise you should be fine
Installed my lift in nov 2015. No issues with it. Rcx bracket lift. Angles are kept stock. Wheel track is stock. I see no issue with the build quality of this kit. Spent 1000 dollars for it. Installed myself. Only downfall i see is there is quite a bit of cutting. But the end result is great. It also came with full skid plates.
Not quite sure what you mean by " much safer"A 2 inch level is way less obtrusive on the truck. If you are talking about doing 3 inch or higher level kit you are angles will be greater it will ride worse and wear out parts quicker. N But with any lift kit their will be some cutting involved. Probably not what you wanna here, but it's reality. I did all the work myself and couldn't believe what I was doing to my truck while I was doing it. But end result is I love the truck 100 times more since I lifted it and would do it over again. Oh and I had level kit on this one prior to lifting it. If you have the bug to lift it might as well just do it because that feeling won't just go away
I would think should contact BDS. You have to remember they are getting their height of spindle / knuckle lift from the new knuckle. I would guess the 4 inch kit make the knuckle 4 inches taller. Creating an issue with wheel diameter.
I am running a rough country bracket lift. 5 inch kit netted me 6 inches of lift without the tires. I think your problem with the knuckle lifts will be the 18 inch wheels . I know alot have done it with 20's even though most kits say you cant . Benefits to a knuckle kits are that they give you the clearance to run wider tires in the front. The negative part of that is as i mentioned before you may not be able to run 18 inch wheels and you front wheel track will be wider than the rear by 1 inch or more on each side. I have researched plenty on my options to go bigger without rubbing. I know in 20 inch a few companies make a metric size tire the that is taller and narrower than a 35 x12.5 but they are pricey. Which is why i am waiting for my tires to wear out.
I run philips led bulbs in my plate lamps, reverse lamps and my cargo lamp in the 3rd brake assy. Very happy with the color and the out put. But if you are thinking these will turn night into day that is just not realistic. I think that is where some people give them bad reviews. They are not realistic jn their expectations. I just installed the xenon depot led head light kit and led fog light kit. These are just buld up grades with minor wiring all plug and play. Once again these have a nice color. Better light output but in no way as bright as hid bulbs. They illuminate the road signs and lines in the road much better. And high beam lit up more of the road than the factory halogen. I have 2014 sle but mine is an all terrain so it has the projector housings(which is the real problem). I went with led vs hid because i felt it qould be more reliable. Time will tell.
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