Dunc

I'm about to replace my condenser because there is no way I'm spending $1.1K for this simple repair. I have a couple of questions though. The Murray unit I see at O'Reilly's is P/N: 7-4283 and it says it is an "A/C Condenser, Oil Cooler And Drier Assembly." What is meant by oil cooler? Is the condenser on these trucks a combination unit that is used for the A/C and a transmission oil cooler or something? EDIT: Finally found a video that touched on it briefly and it looks like my suspicion was correct that the transmission fluid is affected. I'll call up the dealership on Monday and get a quart so it's on hand for this job.

For people who find this in the future.... I had the exact some problem in my '15 Sierra after replacing my battery yesterday. I had 25 presets originally shown. I could set 11 but it wouldn't save anything else even though I had 25 spots showing. You don't need to go to the dealer. Go to the home screen on the touchscreen. Go to Settings>Restore Factory Settings>Clear All Private Data and then follow the on screen instructions. It says to turn the car off, open/close the door (to turn off the retained accessory power I presume) and then wait at least 1 minute before turning the car on again. Doing this I can now add radio favorites again. I first tried resetting the radio settings but that didn't work. I then tried the Clear All Private Data option and it worked.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/195861-my-8l90e-is-finally-fixed/ Cliffs: Have them lookup TSB# 14-07-30-001G or find the same if you have the the 6-speed. Even after a new transmission was installed for me I had very harsh downshifts.They performed 14-07-30-001F on mine and the problems instantly went away. I have not had a delayed engagement, harsh shift into gear, or harsh downshift since this was done on 12/29/16.

Open it with Microsoft Office Picture Manager. Go to the Picture menu, select resize, choose large document. Resave and post.

The only time my navigation screen is on is when the 4 yr. old wants to watch the "truck moving on the yellow lines." Navigation in vehicles is a massive waste. Google Maps (with traffic)+bluetooth can't be beat by anything. I understand the OP's issue though with finding it crazy to pay for updates. They should just do over-the-air push updates and be done with it maybe every 6 or 12 months.

I have a '15 Sierra and have suspected this since I bought the truck last year. It's never seemed to blow cold enough to me even on max. I'll likely have a friend empty and refill mine before this summer just to be sure it's at the right level and then compare. I'm pretty sure there is a lot of room for improvement in the a/c system.

Love it with grade braking off and think it's "decent, but really confused" with it on. Very smooth shifting.

Was your rattle when just driving or due to the bass from the radio? I have a rattle due to the bass and it seems to be on the passenger side. I was trying to determine if these pictures might apply to my situation. I've had the rattle since day one of ownership and just can't deal with it anymore.

Is there an E2 Utlra can? From the way the website is written, it seems that there is an E2X single, double, and utlra. Or is the description under the E2 ultra section also in regard to the E2X double can?

Replaced the black trim piece by the front license plate. The dealer drilled through this plastic piece (without putting bolts in the lower holes) instead of just putting bolts in the lower mounting holes. I wish I knew why they did this when it would have been less work to use the lower mounting holes. Getting that piece out was a pain in the ass because of 1 bolt on each side that is crazy hard to get to. Yes I know Ohio requires a front plate, but I simply just do not care.

Might not help you, but might help others in the future: If you don't use the typical kit bulbs then drilling the caps is not necessary. The stock dust caps will fit with no modification. Then all you do is drill a single 3/8" (or 1/2" if you prefer) hole in the bottom of the headlight housing to get all the signal wiring to pass in/out of the housing.

Also need a wall shot.

Halogen bulbs would not fit in in a good HID projector. The bases of the bulbs are different shapes. It would be a huge waste of time and money to do a retrofit and keep halogen bulbs. All halogen bulbs are garbage. I am one of the people who will never spent a dime on aftermarket HID systems. I just don't think the quality is there, but to each their own right? If you're concened then get an OEM setup. With OEM ballasts and OEM bulbs it will be far less likely you'll ever have any issues as compared to aftermarket systems. You could even go as far as making your own wiring harness to use quality parts and make it fit your vehicle perfectly. It gets expensive fast going this route though. I spent about 2-2.5 times more than the average retrofit so if you are concerned about cost then this might not be the option for you. I just finished mine this past weekend and the Denso ballasts were easy to hide. You can still access them if needed without taking the front end apart as well. They fit under the extra battery tray and air box tray. I spliced in a set of AMP connectors on the Densos so that I could put the D2S connector in the housing and run the wires out of the housing underneath so that no holes were visible before putting the plugs on the wires. My housings have a single 1/2" hole on the bottom of the housing instead of going straight out the back of the dust cap. The stock dust cap also fits on it with no modification. I also created my own wiring harness instead of using the typical Morimoto harness. The reason is that the premade harness has too many connections that are points of failure in the future plus it didn't fit well. Wiring should fit the car, it shouldn't be the car that has to fit the wiring. The premade harness had 3 separate grounding connections, the capacitor just flopped around on the harness, there were adapter plugs, and some of them didn't have the (+) wire on the correct side of the plug so you'd have to plug things in backward. Anyways, I consolidated everything down into just 1 ground and 1 positive that go to the battery, bought quality parts/wiring/braided sleeving, and put the capacitor inside of the harness so that it doesn't flop around and is streamlined, and also don't have any adapter plugs now. It wasn't difficult, just tedious and time consuming...although I'm also extemely anal with wiring being perfect so that always adds time for me. All the wiring is nearly hidden as well and it just fits the truck a lot better. By doing it this way each headlight is its own independent circuit and both are driven off of the single (-) and (+) connections.

I was doing my retro over the weekend and noticed the highbeam solenoid was not triggering (using RX350 projectors.) I ended up breaking a projector so I reverted back to stock, but didn't plug in the highbeam wire on either light since I had already changed the connector. I wanted to test the wires last night to see if I could figure out why it wasn't triggering and what I found has me stumped. With the projector (stock) not plugged in I get a nice strong 11.5v signal. If I plug in the stock projector and probe the wires then I only get 4.5v when I hit the high beam switch. I tried all sort of variations: car off-manual lights on, car on manual lights on, car off auto lights, car on auto lights but no matter what I tried I always would only get 4.5v when I plugged in the stock projector. I only had the driver side plugged in while testing with the stock setup last night. Over the weekend I had both RX350s plugged in when it also didn't work, so I suspect I was only getting 4.5v then too. I also tried unplugging the halogen bulb from the driver but that didn't change anything. I'll have to try unplugging the passenger side as well to isolate everything to just the driver's side for testing. Does anyone have any idea why the volts drop to 4.5v simply by plugging in the stock projector solenoid? I was not using the wiring HID wiring harness I made while testing last night, everything was in a stock format. EDIT: I found this from googling. Unplugging the passenger side and driver's side bulb should help me know if things are crossed. I really don't think they are though because I made to sure to check how the wires were placed in the stock connectors and marked which lead was (+) on the connector before I disassembled them. Everything worked fine with the HIDs low beam, and also with the stock halogens...it's just that the high beam solenoid does not trigger. :/

Just for the priniciple alone if it were me I'd go out of my way to go back and asked them why they are charging 5x more for wiring than another GM dealership. I would then ask them "since you guys are charging entirely too much, will you order it from Mark Sweeney in Ohio and transfer the inventory? In other words I'm trying to give you my money." In reality Mark Sweeney doesn't even have the inventory. These parts were special order and came straight from Michigan. Basically I would just try to corner them into explaining why they were charging an INSANE amount for wiring. and lol @ voiding the entire warranty.

$150 at the dealer? Wtf? I would go back and ask to see the computer screen showing amounts because that invoice image I posted showing $63.35 out-the-door is from a dealership....Mark Sweeney GMC in Cincinnati Ohio to be exact. There is no way another dealer is charging $150 without being a scamming P.O.S. dealer.

See the red text.

I plan to use AMSOIL myself and I'm creeping up on my 1st oil change for this car. I'm shuttering at the though of how much that is going to cost.

I'm kind of confused about this whole DRL and needing the capacitor on the Sierras. I haven't tested my car yet with the multimeter which is why I'm asking. Is this model specific because my denali does not turn the headlights on during the day...it only has the LEDs working. I'm wondering if the capacitor is needed on the SLE/whatever other model that doesn't have the LEDs and has the headlight on all the time. Or is the denali headlight PWM'd when it turns on during the night? Any light to shed on this?

The picture above is an updated version which I'll be test fitting this weekend hopefully, but perhaps not until next Tuesday when some supplies are delivered. But in order to do a TL bracket I would need a TL projector so that I could measure everything. Assuming these work out as I anticipate, I could definitely have some machined without the slotted holes for the RX mounts and then just use a sharpie to mark them. That definitely wouldn't guarantee that they would fit a TL though unless the TL is same size and shape size the clearance are crazy tight. 0.0082" is basically no clearance in reality assuming 3* of rotation is needed which I'm doubting. Unfortunately I have a pretty old autocad program and I can't add some neat exploded text to this bracket that can be cut out...well easily at least :/

This is not yet finished, but I just wanted to give a look at something I've been working on this weekend. The FX-R is not my cup of tea because I prefer to only use OEM components when retroing. I'm just very particular with what parts I use. Anways, my previous setup in the bike was the FX35 with a TSX lens and had decent results. This time around I'm trying the RX350 like spurshot on here. Since the FX-R is the only one right now with an adapter bracket available, I'm making my own similiar to spurshot's but with a twist...literally lol. Here is what I have so far. It allows for +/-3* of rotational adjustment. I don't think it will need much if any, but I wanted the ability to adjust to guarantee a level beam. The white items are the Sierra bracket, the red hatched is obviously the adapter bracket, and the blue is the actual dimensions of certain items on the projector to give an idea of the clearances. The bottom blue line is 0.1100" (7/64") from the bracket while level. At 3* of rotation it is 0.0082" (<1/64".) There is some obvious work yet to be done regarding the bracket shape in relation to the white mounting holes on the Sierra bracket. So for those in the future also wanting to use an OEM projector instead of a replica then there will be a bracket available as I won't be stingy and will share. Just need to do some tweaking and then test cut it before sending the code to the machinist. There could be a lot of tweaking though as everything was measured manually which is super annoying and tedious. EDIT: Had 5* of rotation. Forced to update it to only 3*.

Thank you for posting that! For other in the future, these are indeed the correct part numbers. Below is are the prices to give an understanding of what "...but not cheap" means. It's fairly annoying that they come pre-wired and the larger pins have huge 12ga wire on them. I cut the wire off very close to the pin and soldered my wires I had already ran to the pins. Word of advice though is don't do this. Give yourself a little bit of the pre-wired wire because the hole in the connector that the pin goes in doesn't have much wiggle room. For those that do the connector route you can see another picture below for reference. If you stick the pin in the wrong hole just use a probe to lift up on the tab that my safety pin tip is touching and then just pull the wire back out.

Do you have a bracket available for the RX350 non-AFS projector? The last time I searched around online all I found was one for the FX-R. The component way vs. a kit is better for me though because I always make my own harness so I can choose the electrical components and where they are placed. It's a lot more work, but I'm anal like that.

I'll be working on a Sierra. My issue is that I do not prefer the look of dust caps that are drilled so I'm going a different route to have a more OEM appearing install. That and I'll need the spare headlight so I can fabricate my mounting bracket and work out the wiring harness details on my own time and minimize the downtown of my own car.

I just got done testing with the multimeter and my pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground. All of the other pins in your original image were the same as I got. I have a ’15 Denali so perhaps it is a model specific thing. See the red text.