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durandetto last won the day on January 1

durandetto had the most liked content!

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About durandetto

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  • Birthday 08/12/1982

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  1. When my injectors went out last year I got the last ones available in my area. That was around October, they were struggling to catch up then and now COVID really screwed them up. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  2. Can't remember off hand the thread pitch. 8x1.25 or 10x1.50. You will need a tap to clean the threads though. I put some on my buddies truck and it was way more work cleaning the threaded inserts than mounting the boards. I had it on a hoist too. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  3. You need to check the wires in the rubber boot between the door and body. It's a pain, but most likely you'll find a break in the wires in that boot. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  4. Most dealers offer a loaner vehicle comparable to what you normally drive. That would be beneficial considering they're probably going to have your truck for a few weeks or longer. I had some body work done on my 5 year old black truck and the paint matches great, minus the lack of swirls in the clear coat. Your also more likely to get oem replacement parts. I've also seen my fair share of crappy work done by smaller collision shops. If you don't go dealer definitely do your research. I would also do your research on the dealer. Not all dealers are created equal. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  5. Most common failure is the vent valve itself and the part probably costs less than the diag charge. If you know someone with a bi-directional scanner you can command it open and closed. If it makes noise more than likely it's fine. If not you need to check for power and ground at the solenoid while switching it. If no noise and good power and ground replace it. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  6. With those codes that means your cats aren't performing as intended. If you can live with the light on you should be fine. Or possible look into an aftermarket y-pipe should save you a few hundred if you can do it yourself. Being that you believe it spent most of its life on dirt roads you might need some torches. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  7. That tire is almost a 35 I don't think it will fit in any brand. Depending on wheel offset 33 is about as big as you can go without rubbing. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  8. The bolt pattern is the same and the axles are similar so I would imagine it should work fine. The bearings themselves are only slightly different mainly the abs harness. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  9. At 12.56 it would definitely put it on a charger for a little bit. Batteries are supposed to be rotated out of stock to keep them at full charge and most places don't do that. Your truck won't charge the battery back to full capacity. Also keep your battery especially if it wasn't bad. I just put a Napa premium AGM in my truck and kept my old one, no core charge for me because I work a repair shop. Glad I kept it, ended up using it for my battery back-up sump pump. Saved me over a $100 buying one for it. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  10. You're welcome. I see that all the time at work. Probably best to add enough wire so your splices aren't in the bend. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  11. Is this truck considered the Calloway edition? I've seen a few on the road around here. The local dealer has an Escalade with Calloway badges on it. I believe the Calloway is just the 6.2 with dealer installed S/C. One day I'll own a super or turbocharged 6.2l truck. I'm a mechanic and my best friend installs Magnuson's and prochargers for a local speed shop that his father in law owns. I'm also in the process of finishing my pole barn. Just waiting for electricity so I can get my hoist and compressor setup. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  12. On my second time replacing my rear brakes I upgraded to the dual piston calipers with the thicker rotors and eventually swapped the fronts for the bigger brakes from the rear drum trucks. This with a carbon metallic pad helped my braking considerably and prolonged the life of the rear pads. My last time doing the brakes before getting my 15 Silverado I upgraded the rotors to the Napa reactive one slotted rotors front and rear. I was finally able to stop my brakeless car hauler. Not sure what the treatment process is with the reactive one rotors but they hold up really well against corrosion and warping. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  13. You're just lucky you had an 06 with rear drum. The rear disc were far worse than the front. I had numerous customers having their rear brakes warrantied every 15-20k. I did my 04 rear brakes 3 times in 40k and I replaced calipers everytime. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  14. The ball joint stud is different for the aluminum knuckles. I would imagine if you replaced the upper control arm, lower ball joint, maybe outer tie rod and maybe the brake hose you should be fine. Moral of the story is the taper is slightly different from steel to aluminum. You'd have to check part number differences. Brakes hose brackets can vary from one control arm to another. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  15. I wasn't offended and the apology, while appreciated, wasn't necessary. I value your extensive knowledge. I guess I should have stated YMMV. As many of these trucks that I've seen need brakes at 50k I've seen as much or more not need brakes well past 150k. I guess it will remain a mystery as to why some fail so early, but I'm sure the excessive salt on the roads and the amount of unpaved roads around here are a contributing factor for my experiences. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
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