Start the truck and let it run for a min then shut it off. Wait a min or so then pull the check valve out of the booster and see if there is still vacuum. If not you probably have a leaky booster. That's not a common issue on these trucks but neither is the problem you're having.
Fronts don't require much caliper bolts are 19mm bracket bolts are 18mm and if your changing rotors you'll need a small torx bit not sure the exact size though. 15 maybe. Rears depending on the year requires different tools. The first design can be done with a pair of side cutters and needle nose vice grips, at least that's how I do them and it's much easier than the special tool they make for it. The second design you'll need a set off drum brake tools or at least a hold down spring tool.
Maybe try a big punch and a hammer to try and spin the bearing in the knuckle them use the slide hammer. You need to break the rust between the bearing and knuckle for it to come out. Pull the bolts and strike on the ears of the bearings where the bolt holes are.
durandetto replied to rgates's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500Installed thousands of these shocks and that's how they are. No need to worry just make sure you get them centered on the hole.
Slide hammers don't actually work as good as an air hammer. You need to spin the bearing in the knuckle to get the corrosion to break loose. If they are really bad you can use torches to heat up the knuckle by where the caliper bolts up.
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