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durandetto

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About durandetto

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  • Birthday 08/12/1982

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  • Jd76

  1. The one in the picture is the one right by the pcv port. There's another one directly across from it that looks the same. 8 and 7 were probably the cleanest ones. Granted the valve on 7 was just replaced due to lifter failure. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  2. It's real startling when you have an aftermarket exhaust. First time it happened after my exhaust it nearly scared the sh!t out of me. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  3. 10k for the trans makes sense for these trucks, because they used a crap fluid from the factory. Just make sure you replace the fluid with the newer Mobil 1 fluid. As far as the injector cleaner goes, it's not so much the injectors, but the intake that needs the cleaning the most. Obviously it's cheaper to do the work yourself if you're capable. $140 for the service from the dealer is the going rate unfortunately. Most dealers use BG products and if done at the right intervals they come with a warranty from BG for the system that was serviced. Which I'm planning on using when my other bank of injectors fail. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  4. If you go with Wagner make sure they're the oex ones. The lesser grade are known to squeal. In the industry they're known as thermo-louds. Maybe look into akebono or Napa adv's with Napa reactive one rotors. I've had really good luck with Napa high end rotors and pads. I personally run the reactive one slotted rotors and they helped with stopping power on my 04. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  5. Unfortunately with the crappy recycled steel they use for rotors they tend to rust badly and brake pads don't like stopping on rust. Most ceramic brakes will last 100k if the rotors don't rot out first. Don't get me wrong, I make a lot of money replacing these crappy rotors and the pads they destroy. With the price these trucks cost they should maybe spend a little more on some quality rotors. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  6. Check for seized slide pins. I was getting this noise as well and while rotating my tires one day I noticed the outboard pad wasn't touching the rotor. I pulled the caliper off and the lower pin was sticking. Pulled it out, cleaned and lubed it all is good now. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  7. It wasn't the worst one. 3 or 4 others were just as bad and there were a couple that looked like new. Not sure if that was a result of the intake cleaner not cleaning evenly or what. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  8. The hardest part is the wire harness attached to the back of the intake cover. A couple of the bolts on the back of the passenger side are a little tricky, but not too bad. Gaskets are around $30 so not horrible. You could reuse them, but it's not worth the potential issues if one gets a small tear or something. It appears they're dealer only still and with the strike they could be hard to find. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  9. Intake comes off in less than 30 min. The hardest part is cleaning the valves. All I could manage to do is spray some intake cleaner down there and let it soak. I guess with a bendable long brush you could probably do a decent job. After seeing what my valves looked like I ordered an elite e2 catch can and CSS last night. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  10. Definitely gonna order some diodes. I'm also curious about the wire jumper for the cargo light switch back-up camera. Just a little concerned about any potential quirks. I have an aftermarket 3rd brake light so it has bright LEDs for the cargo light. Will definitely help with being able to see through my tinted windows backing up at night. I replaced my Sylvania led back up lights with some 1000+ lumen ones from Amazon and it's definitely an improvement, but more is better. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  11. From reading this thread and looking at the few links people provided it seems the new fluid flush is only for the 8 speed. I have a 15 5.3 6 speed with a shudder that I've been ignoring, because of all the engine troubles I've been having. I'm still covered under the 5 year 100k warranty, but don't have time to take 5 trips to 3 different dealers to get this diagnosed. Also I have a leveling kit with 3054522 ridge grapplers and I know they're gonna spend a day checking my tires and tell me that was the problem. I work at Belle Tire and we have Hunter roadforce balancers and my roadforce is less than 10. Also the vibration was there with the factory size Michelins and no leveling kit. How many people with the 6 speed had their shudder fixed with the new fluid flush? How many miles did you have and was it a warranty fix or out of pocket? I was considering just paying for the flush, but after seeing the cost of the fluid I figure it will be north of $300. I just spent $400 on 4 new injectors and sill need a catch can that's gonna cost another $300. This reletively new truck is turning into a money pit. In 6 years with my 04 sierra with 170k on it I think my repair costs were less than 5 months with my 15 with 70k. Granted the majority of the repair costs were covered under warranty when my #7 lifter collapsed and took out my cam and valve. I'm almost to the point where I'm gonna sell it and buy a different truck, but I've spent a lot of time and money getting it the way I want it and don't want to start over. I just want to be able to trust it not to break down or embarrass me when my friends drive in it and ask about that weird shudder/vibration. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  12. Out of curiosity will the fog light one keep them on while running the high beams? I wouldn't mind having 3 pairs of LEDs on at the same time. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  13. To rule out major transmission failure I would check the fluid. Color, level and smell. If it's brown and smells like friction material(overheated brakes) you might have to stop at a trans shop. Problem is GM has done a horrible job building these trucks, especially when it comes to vibrations and driveline clunks. My truck has an intermittent driveline vibration and the occasional clunk, but after reading numerous threads in a couple forums I've decided to just deal with it. Believe me I know how you feel I just bought my dream truck 5 months ago and let's just say it's been no honeymoon. Lifter failure a few weeks ago then injector failure last week all with only 70k on it. I would start with taking to a reputable shop so they can test drive it and point you in the right direction. A good mechanic should be able to narrow it down for you with a test drive. Good luck and I hope it's something simple. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  14. Dexron VI is synthetic and the diffs come with synthetic fluid as well. I wouldn't say it's amsoil quality synthetic, but don't see it making that much of a difference in this situation. Seems to me there's something more going on causing this issue. I pulled a loaded car hauler 3 hours in 95 degree heat at 80 mph and my trans never hit 200 degrees. It's possible the factory coolers are clogged from the previous trans failure. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  15. Sounds like the mechanic is clueless. Cats don't generally fail for no reason, depending on the mileage. A misfire can cause too much fuel in the exhaust causing them to fail and an exhaust leak can cause extra air being read by the downstream oxygen sensors making the computer think the cats failed. The third cat isn't monitored by the PCM so it wouldn't throw a code unless it was clogged causing a restriction in the exhaust. If that was the case you would be experiencing a lack of power. If the shop used aftermarket cats they might not be of good enough quality to keep the cat efficiency codes from coming back. You'll probably need to have dealer cats installed and I would make the shop refund you the money for the cats they installed. Whatever you do I would have a more competent mechanic diagnose your issue. Good luck. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
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