durandetto

My 22 ram has this issue when I traded it in for a 25 Sierra. Not too happy to hear this is an issue with these trucks as well. I also have leaf spring popping from the cheap plastic pads between each leaf. I've put a bandaid on that for now by putting rubber tire patches between each leaf.

I retightened the ubolts and put some grease in the front pads and it's still there. My truck has 150 miles. Also the ads on this forum are out of control. Can't believe people participate in it. I've seen scam sites with less ads. I had to get rid of 15 ads just to type this.

You want to put the same tire on and they should be within 3/32s of each other. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

If you don't have any exhaust leaks and you're using good fuel it's most likely the cats. Aftermarket cats are a lot cheaper for a reason. I currently have my y-pipe sitting on the floor of my barn, just replaced it for a kooks off-road y-pipe. I'd be willing to part with it for a few hundred plus the cost of shipping. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I've seen a lot of people with the denalis having this issue, not so much with the 5.3s. Not sure how much different the 2 are. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

You didn't mention if the injectors fixed the issue or not. I had the same issue on mine and replaced all the injectors on that bank and the problem hasn't come back. It's not it common for the lifters on 3 and 5 to fail as they are not it afm lifters. If the problem is still there I would start by swapping plugs then coils to see if the problem follows the plug or coil. If so replace said part. If not you'll need someone to dig in deeper and see if it's a mechanical failure. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

As far as I know you have to get the part number off the injector. Have you tried calling the dealer with the VIN? That would be the only other way I could think of. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I'm not sure you can find a non full synthetic 0w20 oil. At least in my experience. I work at a repair facility and we always use full synthetic for the 0w20 oil changes. I'm guessing it's becuase most of the cars that take 0w20 require a full synthetic oil. Our trucks require dexos approved oil which as far as I know is full synthetic. I'm no lubrication expert this is just my experience. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

here's my exhaust. A little too loud. Need to add a resonator to calm it down. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Wheels appear to be oem maybe dealer swapped, as in didn't come on the truck, but upgraded from the dealer. The dots look like some sort of aftermarket running lights. The truck is definitely leveled, maybe too much. Main issues with the drive train are slight vibrations and potential lifter failure. I had one go out on my 15 at 67k, thankfully under warranty. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I used Napa fleet pads and their reactive one slotted rotors. They work great, obviously more dust with a metalic pad. The reactive one rotors have slots in them. Used them on my 04 and they made a world of difference. Not as much of an improvement on my 15, because the brakes are better from the factory. The best part is they're locally available and easy to warranty. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I love the power e85 provides, but it definitely hurts the mpgs. Usually run e85 most of the time then run a tank or 2 of premium every once in a while. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Recently replaced diff fluids, Trans fluid and pan, tcase fluid all with amsoil. New headlights and taillights. Just ordered my Kooks long tubes w/ off-road y-pipe, afe CAI and 6.2l intake manifold and throttle body. Talking to lew about an updated tune. Also replaced my leaking Trans cooler lines. A while back I replaced pads and rotors front and rear along with rear calipers and I needed a rf lower ball joint. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

So I'm getting ready to order kooks long tubes, off road y-pipe, potentially a cai and the 6.2 intake and t/b. I work at a repair facility and get a deal on dealer parts. Is it worth the extra $200 for the ported t/b? Also 1 7/8 or 3/4 long tubes on a n/a engine. Cost isn't much different, but I don't want to have any adverse effects going too big. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I have a carven cat back and it sounds amazing. Minimal drone and I get compliments on it all the time. It's also in your price range. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Sounds great. I have a carven cat back right now and thinking of doing long tubes with off road y-pipe. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I cleaned the slides twice and the problem went away. Then I finally just replaced everything because the problem kept coming back. I was upgrading the brakes too. Fleet pads, slotted rotors and new calipers front and rear. It was definitely a sticking slide pin causing my noise though. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

I had the same issue but it was always a sticking caliper pin. Replaced my calipers pads and rotors. All is good now. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

They almost look like back up light bulbs. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

I think the biggest issue with the newer ones is the afm and direct injection. My 04 has almost 180k on it with no major engine or trans issues and my 15 with 70k already had a lifter collapse and 2 injector failures. I prefer the suspension and brakes of the newer trucks, but I'm still leary of all the new technology they put in them. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Might want to look at a tuner and a Lew tune. Also e85 if it's a flex fuel truck, the extra horsepower makes a difference. Maybe look into upgrading the brakes. Factory brakes are decent, but ceramic pads and factory rotors aren't the greatest for stopping power. Some severe duty pads and slotted rotors make stopping much better. Also watch your trans temp, if you're running over 200 might want to do some trans tstat mods. My truck seems to stay below 200 hauling a trailer with quads and dirt bikes around 4000 pounds in 90 degree heat at 80mph, but not everyone's does. I assume you'll have a weight distribution hitch, if not that's probably one of the most important things to have. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

When my injectors went out last year I got the last ones available in my area. That was around October, they were struggling to catch up then and now COVID really screwed them up. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Most common failure is the vent valve itself and the part probably costs less than the diag charge. If you know someone with a bi-directional scanner you can command it open and closed. If it makes noise more than likely it's fine. If not you need to check for power and ground at the solenoid while switching it. If no noise and good power and ground replace it. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

You're welcome. I see that all the time at work. Probably best to add enough wire so your splices aren't in the bend. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Is this truck considered the Calloway edition? I've seen a few on the road around here. The local dealer has an Escalade with Calloway badges on it. I believe the Calloway is just the 6.2 with dealer installed S/C. One day I'll own a super or turbocharged 6.2l truck. I'm a mechanic and my best friend installs Magnuson's and prochargers for a local speed shop that his father in law owns. I'm also in the process of finishing my pole barn. Just waiting for electricity so I can get my hoist and compressor setup. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk