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durandetto

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Everything posted by durandetto

  1. My 22 ram has this issue when I traded it in for a 25 Sierra. Not too happy to hear this is an issue with these trucks as well. I also have leaf spring popping from the cheap plastic pads between each leaf. I've put a bandaid on that for now by putting rubber tire patches between each leaf.
  2. I retightened the ubolts and put some grease in the front pads and it's still there. My truck has 150 miles. Also the ads on this forum are out of control. Can't believe people participate in it. I've seen scam sites with less ads. I had to get rid of 15 ads just to type this.
  3. You want to put the same tire on and they should be within 3/32s of each other. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  4. If you don't have any exhaust leaks and you're using good fuel it's most likely the cats. Aftermarket cats are a lot cheaper for a reason. I currently have my y-pipe sitting on the floor of my barn, just replaced it for a kooks off-road y-pipe. I'd be willing to part with it for a few hundred plus the cost of shipping. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  5. I've seen a lot of people with the denalis having this issue, not so much with the 5.3s. Not sure how much different the 2 are. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  6. You didn't mention if the injectors fixed the issue or not. I had the same issue on mine and replaced all the injectors on that bank and the problem hasn't come back. It's not it common for the lifters on 3 and 5 to fail as they are not it afm lifters. If the problem is still there I would start by swapping plugs then coils to see if the problem follows the plug or coil. If so replace said part. If not you'll need someone to dig in deeper and see if it's a mechanical failure. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  7. As far as I know you have to get the part number off the injector. Have you tried calling the dealer with the VIN? That would be the only other way I could think of. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  8. I'm not sure you can find a non full synthetic 0w20 oil. At least in my experience. I work at a repair facility and we always use full synthetic for the 0w20 oil changes. I'm guessing it's becuase most of the cars that take 0w20 require a full synthetic oil. Our trucks require dexos approved oil which as far as I know is full synthetic. I'm no lubrication expert this is just my experience. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  9. here's my exhaust. A little too loud. Need to add a resonator to calm it down. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  10. Wheels appear to be oem maybe dealer swapped, as in didn't come on the truck, but upgraded from the dealer. The dots look like some sort of aftermarket running lights. The truck is definitely leveled, maybe too much. Main issues with the drive train are slight vibrations and potential lifter failure. I had one go out on my 15 at 67k, thankfully under warranty. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  11. I used Napa fleet pads and their reactive one slotted rotors. They work great, obviously more dust with a metalic pad. The reactive one rotors have slots in them. Used them on my 04 and they made a world of difference. Not as much of an improvement on my 15, because the brakes are better from the factory. The best part is they're locally available and easy to warranty. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  12. I love the power e85 provides, but it definitely hurts the mpgs. Usually run e85 most of the time then run a tank or 2 of premium every once in a while. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  13. Recently replaced diff fluids, Trans fluid and pan, tcase fluid all with amsoil. New headlights and taillights. Just ordered my Kooks long tubes w/ off-road y-pipe, afe CAI and 6.2l intake manifold and throttle body. Talking to lew about an updated tune. Also replaced my leaking Trans cooler lines. A while back I replaced pads and rotors front and rear along with rear calipers and I needed a rf lower ball joint. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  14. So I'm getting ready to order kooks long tubes, off road y-pipe, potentially a cai and the 6.2 intake and t/b. I work at a repair facility and get a deal on dealer parts. Is it worth the extra $200 for the ported t/b? Also 1 7/8 or 3/4 long tubes on a n/a engine. Cost isn't much different, but I don't want to have any adverse effects going too big. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  15. I have a carven cat back and it sounds amazing. Minimal drone and I get compliments on it all the time. It's also in your price range. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  16. Sounds great. I have a carven cat back right now and thinking of doing long tubes with off road y-pipe. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
  17. I cleaned the slides twice and the problem went away. Then I finally just replaced everything because the problem kept coming back. I was upgrading the brakes too. Fleet pads, slotted rotors and new calipers front and rear. It was definitely a sticking slide pin causing my noise though. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  18. I had the same issue but it was always a sticking caliper pin. Replaced my calipers pads and rotors. All is good now. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  19. They almost look like back up light bulbs. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  20. I think the biggest issue with the newer ones is the afm and direct injection. My 04 has almost 180k on it with no major engine or trans issues and my 15 with 70k already had a lifter collapse and 2 injector failures. I prefer the suspension and brakes of the newer trucks, but I'm still leary of all the new technology they put in them. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  21. Carven makes a great product that sounds amazing, however I don't know that there's anything out there that can sound good in 4cyl mode. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  22. Also look into BG 44k for the in tank cleaner it's a little more expensive, but does a great job. Probably less expensive than 2 cans of seafoam though. A Lew tune would do wonders as well if you're gonna be towing a lot. It's a night and day difference. You'll think you're driving a different truck. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  23. Yes just at a different rpm/ load. You tend to stay in the power range more in tow/ haul and downshifts are quicker. It's an overall better driving experience, especially if you're an aggressive driver like myself. Trans temps vary truck to truck so you could see temps over 200 especially if it's hot and you're running steep grades. I think my truck has only briefly ever went over 200. It usually runs in the mid 190s when towing. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  24. I tow a pop-up that weighs over 2000 pounds. I run tow/haul pretty much all the time trailer or not(just like the way it shifts). I went about 200 miles with it for the fourth and I was averaging 80-85. The temps were in the 90s and I had zero issues and my trans fluid stayed under 200. Tow/ haul will help with slowing down, especially in the mountains. I have pretty much the same truck except mine has a tune. E85 is nice for the extra power, but it's hard to find in rural areas plus the mpgs really suck especially when towing. Averaged 11 on the way up with e85 and around 15 on the way home with 93. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
  25. I would maybe look into the Toyo at2 for a year round tire. Just know that no a/t tire is gonna perform near as good as a snow tire in the snow. Also, snow tires are no good off-road or in mud. Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
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