BeauTie

New info: I finally got around to starting to look at the 2000 page electrical manual and I think the broken wire I fixed is wire 1 of connector X125 which is related to oxygen sensor. This happened over a year ago so the details aren't very fresh but I had an O2 sensor code around the same time and that code cleared during this whole process. In retrospect, it looks like the broken wire is related to the O2 sensor and that I just haven't been able to find the damage in the brake system. I tried looking under the truck in warmer weather but didn't find anything. There are tons of wires and connectors in these things so kind of feel like I'm looking for a needle in a haystack.

I had (presumably) a squirrel get into my engine compartment (2016 Silverado crew cab 4x4 5.3L) and eat through a wire that messed up the ABS/Stabilitrak systems. The wire in question is one of the corner wires on an connector laying on top of the frame rail in front of the driver. I soldered the wire back together and thought I had fixed it but the ABS/Stabilitrak alarms still go off, especially when I hit any kind of bump in the road. I double-checked the repair and think it's fine and I checked over all the other wiring pretty closely and couldn't find any other damage but I can't get the alarms to stop. I finally pulled the ABS fuse to just shut it off and stop the dinging. It's been driving fine that way but I took the truck in today for the brake recall and they won't reprogram it because the ABS is kaput. The first day this happened, I could hear some kind of light rubbing underneath the truck. I thought maybe the brakes were dragging but if I put it in neutral, it didn't slow down so I'm not sure what the rubbing kind of sound was. That noise stopped when I pulled the fuse but I think that rubbing noise was still intermittently audible when I drove the truck after repairing the broken wire. Any ideas? Is there any kind of reset on the system that might be necessary after fixing the wire? I have a cheap Bluetooth scanner and think I reset codes that way but it didn't help. I assume there are 3 potentials: (1) I still have some wiring issue, (2) some kind of reset is necessary or (3) something got damaged when I drove it with the broken wire.

I followed this topic for a long time. I got a new 16 crew in February and I have felt some distinct vibration twice. I test drove it up to 75 mph before buying it and couldn't feel any vibration but the ride is very busy due to the stiffness of everything so it's just a different ride than my previous vehicles. I felt like it was not easy to detect a vibration because the ride was so busy in general. The two times I felt a vibration were similar circumstances. The truck had been parked on my driveway for 2 to 3 days and I left home and jumped on the interstate which is only about 1.5 miles from my house. In each case, I felt a fairly rapid vibration as soon as I got up to speed on the interstate. I felt it mostly through the steering wheel and it felt very much like flat-spotted tires (Goodyears and 18" LT non-Z71 wheels) just based on the frequency of the vibration. After about 2 miles, the vibration disappeared. I've only noticed this twice in 900 miles, the first time was at about 700 miles. I actually got the 18" wheels partially as a hedge against the vibration issue. I was hoping that the extra sidewall would help absorb a little of it. Because I was aware of this issue all along, I was pretty depressed the first time I experienced it but I've only felt it twice and it disappeared pretty quickly both times so I don't have the bad shakes as described by some of you. Of course, I'm only at 1000 miles so things could still go downhill. I have not had the truck over about 72 mph since the test drive so I don't know how it handles at 80 mph. I sure wish GM would solve this problem for all of the owners. Because it's been going on for 3 model years now, I'm not overly optimistic they are ever going to completely resolve this but hope springs eternal.

I put in the same XKglow light kit that loghead showed in post #274. They've only been installed two days but I'm happy with the install. We'll be doing some tent camping and I wanted the on/off switch back by the tailgate instead of needing to get into the cab to hit the cargo light switch. I tied into the trailer connector for power and installed a weatherproof fuse so I can disconnect the entire setup by pulling the fuse if it ever develops a problem. I ended up using hot glue to mount the led lights up under the rail. Typical low temp hot glue is supposed to melt around 248F so I don't think the summer heat will cause them to fall. We'll find out in due time. I mounted my on/off switch in a recessed area just to the right of where loghead installed his. When we have the bed full of stuff, I didn't want something to bump that switch and turn the lights on. So, it's a bit recessed but still easily reachable from the rear of the bed.

Easiest way is to check the paint code in your upper glove box. My 2016 silver is paint code 636R. I had to go get a Duplicolor touch-up paint gizmo so I had my paint code handy. I don't know what the 2015 silver color code is but you can check.

I hesitated to post this but figured I might as well as it's at least mildly related. I noticed today that the throttle response on my truck is very dependent on my foot placement on the gas pedal. I tend to keep my heel between the gas pedal and brake which lets me rotate the top of my foot between the gas pedal and brake. This basically means that I'm pushing on the bottom of the gas pedal. I happened to put my whole foot on the gas pedal in basically a vertical orientation and the throttle is much more responsive. I've probably driven this way my whole life and never noticed that any of my cars were sensitive in this manner. My truck only has 400 miles on it but the throttle response has always seemed very slow unless I really pushed on the pedal. With my foot position adjusted, the throttle feels a lot more responsive. I feel a little goofy writing this but figured it couldn't hurt to throw it out there.

Here's the link to the 898 page for the 2015s: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/578/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf

Here are a couple of photos of the corner gap I mentioned. The first photo is taken from the outside with an arrow drawn to the area of concern. The second photo is taken from inside the bed looking forward so the daylight that is visible is coming through the gap. My concern is mostly that when driving in the rain that the rain would basically be going right into that hole since the gap faces the forward direction. It's not the end of the world but it just seems to me that it wouldn't be that hard for Fold-a-Cover to close it off better. My truck has Line-x liner, by the way.

I put a Fold-a-Cover G4 Elite on my 2016 Silverado today. My last truck had a painted fiberglass ARE cover on it so this was my first experience with a folding cover. My first two observations are as follows. First, I wish they put the front latch further forward. It's towards the rear of the front panel so the leading edge of the front panel can be pulled up a little when you pull up on it even when it's latched properly. I tried to adjust the striker bolt to hold it down as much as possible but I wish they put the latch up towards the leading edge to make the front panel more snug. Doesn't feel very secure. Second, I think they did a poor job sealing it at the two front corners. There's a significant gap on both front corners and I don't think it would have been that difficult to improve the sealing of those corners to reduce the amount of water that can get in. The front, tailgate, and sides look to be sealed pretty well but it just looks like they decided to ignore the gaps at the front corners. When I first looked under it from the rear, I saw two big light holes at the front corners and was surprised how big they were. My side rails are pushed in as far as possible so I can't do anything else in the alignment to reduce the gap. I'm going to take a look at the corners and see what I can do to try and minimize those gaps. I think I can eliminate the vast majority of those gaps and maybe do something to make a little water dam to keep the water from just easily running in those corners right into the bed. Installation was okay. It took me longer than planned because I had to fiddle with some of the alignments and re-adjust some things after seeing how it finally went together. Shipping was wonderfully fast, all the parts were in the box, and the instructions and Youtube video were decent. I don't think this cover is nearly as secure as my old ARE cover so I'm concerned what I'll do when we take the truck on family trips and vacations and have stuff in there overnight at a hotel. I'm a little worried about it.

New 2016 LT Crew Cab 4x4 to add to the gallery. The photos aren't really anything special but I wanted to take a few of the truck the way it rolled off the lot. I've driven a dark blue truck for the last 15 years and decided to get either white or silver to hide the dirt and salt and to make it a little easier to wax in warmer weather. I was leaning towards white but opted for silver after seeing them both up close. I have an appointment to have Line-x sprayed in on Tuesday and I have a Fold-a-cover G4 Elite ready to be put on after that. Let the fun begin!

I just got a 2016 crew cab and the gas pedal bracket in mine had a lot of slop in it like has been reported here. It was frustrating to drive as I would push on the gas pedal and get little to no response. Driveability was pretty poor in my opinion. I put a piece of hard rubber matting under the bracket and the throttle response is much improved and much more consistent. I have no idea why GM hasn't addressed this simple issue in the 3rd model year. If they want the throttle to respond slowly for enhanced fuel economy, it seems to me that should be done in the throttle mapping and not by having the accelerator bracket have a half inch of slop in it.

How many of you guys have marked your tires to see if they are spinning on the rims? Ziemer reported back in October that his tires were slipping on his 20" rims (like 7 to 10 inches!) and that was after his dealer discovered they were slipping and let them sit overnight after remounting them presumably with something to stop the slippage. This slipping would obviously interfere with the balancing so would explain the need to rebalance tires constantly and some inconsistency in the vibration from day to day. Just curious how many guys have checked for this.

Now that some 2016 models are on the lots, I'm really interested to hear some test drive reports to see if this vibration is still present. I know the main change is the cosmetic front end but all manufacturers have engineering change orders they introduce during the manufacturing process to fix problems that have been identified and most of these ECOs are never publicly acknowledged so I'm just curious if they made some attempt to address this problem in the 2016s. If the 2016s still vibrate like the 14s and 15s, then that tells me either they genuinely don't know the root cause(s) and the complete and final remedy or it's something in this current design that they can't reasonably or economically fix.

As a prospective buyer, this vibration issue is scary....primarily because GM hasn't been able to fix all of them which tells me either they don't totally understand the root problem(s) or it is incurable in some cases. If it happens under warranty, at least you have some options but not all of the vibrators have started vibrating right out of the chute. So for people like me that hold them a long time, I'm scared it might start vibrating after the warranty expires and that would be a big problem because (a) the real complete and permanent fix is still unknown and (b) the cost to fix it is also therefore unknown. I recognize many of them don't vibrate but I've read cases where it only started vibrating after several thousand miles (some as late as 30,000 miles?) so I'm concerned that it could start at any time and leave you with something that can't be fixed. For a buyer of a $40K-$50K vehicle, that's scary. BT

Seems to me that the likely reason so many Silverado owners have not had success getting the dealers to completely fix the vibration is that so many different causes have been identified: tires, wheels, drive shaft, rear end gears, and combinations thereof. It takes a dealer that will really engage the problem and be willing to keep working on it without taking an easy out and calling the remaining vibration normal or acceptable. All of this makes me wonder if and why the Silverado is more sensitive to vibration than past models. Just seems like any of these variables can make this particular model vibrate more than past trucks. BT