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silveradosid

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Everything posted by silveradosid

  1. not much you can do, you could go back and ask to see the diagnostic report to justify why they replaced it. but i think you are sol and no offence but you should have done the research first
  2. replace the blower motor, it has dead spot and when it stops on that spot it wont start,
  3. you need to buy the whole actuator 85530790
  4. you need to pick a model and power train and go from there. there are so many variables, and what you are going to use the truck for. i now i will get bashed, but the 2.7 turbo with 8 speed seems to have the least problems, i have one and other than 1 problem and using oil is has been great. i am at 90k miles on a 2020 silverado
  5. if you look at the fuse panel, there is no connector in the k7, so i dont think you are missing anything
  6. yes, if the pressure is low you could have miss fires
  7. did you replace the resistor when you changed the bulb, the resistor could have an internal short circuit
  8. try https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/connectors?srsltid=AfmBOopXzP2Ieg5rO7zSOkhLB7rcb6p0w6pUQyjEnxRDheHfUhHr1IHn
  9. you have a power or ground problem, the switch should still light up even if the seats don't work
  10. do not buy a diesel with the driving pattern you have. i would try some oil treatment to try and clean the piston rings first, might save you a lot of money
  11. do you do a lot of highway driving, most of my driving is highway and it seems like bugs can chip the paint off at high speeds. i am at 90k miles and will be repainting my front bumper next summer, waiting for winter to be over when they stop using rock salt on the roads
  12. 11 seems a little low but if your in detroit and driving in rush hour might not be. i have had mine down that low once when stuck in a 4 hour traffic jam
  13. kind of sad that the cat failed at 120k, makes me wonder if this is going to be a trend for this engine considering how much oil it uses. my cat codes cleared after i replaced the oil separator, but a lot of oil went threw it before i got it changed and may have shortened its life
  14. there was a recall on the alternator cable having excess glue on the positive cable that would trigger that code
  15. i know the SI shows its a lot of work to change the oil separator but you don't have to take the intake off. left front wheel and liner does have to come off to let you at some line clamps and there is one on the right side, the 2 bolts for the coolant line and just push it back against the firewall. you will be able to get it out. because the coolant line is right on top of the engine you don't have to drain much coolant out
  16. sorry i meant i0r, i have the ior with the 8 inch screen so i should be ok
  17. luck of the draw, when i finally got the separator off it had a lot of brown crusty stuff in it. there is a diaphragm and 3 check valves in it. the part number is 12722131. the diaphragm on the back off the valve is what failed on mine
  18. some codes only clear after driving the truck for awhile and the computer learns the repair has been done
  19. it does look more like a gm set up than the first one you installed. did you notice any change in air out out from the vent being relocated
  20. you have a lot of secondary lighting in that pic, try it some where with no extra lighting and when its raining out, then you will see how bad it is
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