silveradosid

check wiring harneses for a spot that has been rubbed through

it will be in one of the lines coming off the compressor

try taking a picture of the profile and let google search the image, you might find the company that makes it

while it might not be common, i have 2 freinds with 22's with the same problem. all started after they had updates done to their trucks. gm can't figure it out

that type of truck was being built in oshawa ontario, which has a big problem of parts shortage due to tarriffs. it might be why they won't accept the build

sure it is the bed, looks like a spring problem

if the brakes need lubed once or twice, then why doesn't the dealer let us know that. they don't because they will make more money when you have to replace everything. simple as that

while it is a wear item its not wearing properly. there is a lot of posts on this problem, including myself. my 2014 went almost 90k miles before the brakes needed replacement. my 2020 went 55k and the rear brakes were shot due to the inner pad wearing much faster than the outer, and just like Rob the truck was being serviced by gm and they said nothing. my truck went from saying 77% to service brakes in a week, and that when i discovered the rear inner pads where gone. this is a safety issue for people

you could put it on and hope for the best, but i think it might need to be calibrated. you dont have to go to the dealer, any local shop with the equipment can do it

i just had a key cut for my truck at the dealership yesterday, no programming needed if its just the key. i have a 2020 silverado push button start.

number 4 is just stupid. it really depends on if its paid off and mileage or do you like throw away money. i would go with number1. number 2 is not an option, buy newer tuck and most likely you will get a 10 speed which has its own problems. unless your willing to go withe 2.7 and 8 speed , it seems to be GM's most reliable power train for now. number 3 is a crapshoot, ford is no different than gm right now as they are having to also replace a lot of engines. so every manufacturer is having problems. if have money to throw away do what you want to do, if not stick with number 1

not where you live, i live in ontario, lots of sand ,salt and brine and i have almost double your mileage. it could be bad luck but i doubt it. i would load test the main battery cables and double check all the connections

if you are over the mileage of warranty then there isn't much you can do except contact gm and see if you can get any assistance

how old is the battery, with that many codes generally the bttery voltage is dropping below the thresh hold voltage that the modules need to communicate. if its ok then you need to start checking all the ground wires

we bought a new denali dually pick up in 2021 and paid 88k for it, this is considered a low mileage truck and in our market would still be worth 70k. at an exchange rate of 38% american dealers can and do buy canadian trucks like ours for 40k and if it was built in the USA pay virtually nothing in duty and taxes. so like our truck with only 60k miles and more demand in USA it would probably still sell for 50 to 55k dollars. nice profit margin

it is probably the light, our 2021 3500 denali started having problems with the left headlight. the module that control the headlight is mounted on the bottom of the light and had water in it. there no cracks, so i dont know how the water got in. the fix is to replace the headlight. i did find later that you can buy the module separate on ebay

debree from the crank journals could be plugging up the vvt solenoids causing them not function properly, just a guess

has this been done by the dealer with new oem starter or an independant and aftermarket starter

you shouldn't reuse the U bolts the rest is ok

just wondering if there is anyone who has driven the first gen 2.7 and then got a newer truck with the 2nd gen 2.7, do you notice any difference

16 mpg and premium gas, that truck wouldn't sell in my area where everyone has to commute to get to work, nice truck though

i will probably get stomped on for this but GM doesn't really have reliable power train. 5.3 and 6.2 MAY have lifter problems. 6.2 apperent bearing issues, 10 speed transmissions with valve body problems. the 3.0 diesel MAY have dpf issues. it doesn't matter which transmission you have you MAY have a bad torque converter. the power train that seems to have the least of problems is the 2.7 turbo with the 8 speed. my 2014 5.3 is at 250k miles without a major problem and my 2020 2.7 is almost at 100k miles with no major problems. this why i capitalized the word MAY because not every power train will have problems as seen by the 2 trucks i own. myself personally i would keep what you have but the 3.0 diesel is really nice to drive

the engineers should get a hold of some one who steals trucks, bet they can get it started lol

that's why i said they may or maybe not

they may and maybe not. the bcm learns a value of the original lights and stores it. even if you replace a light with a factory light you may get codes and hyperflash because that leaned valve does not match. in your case the resistors are useless because you already have led's. you can install the new lights, but you need a scanner to hook up and erase all codes, even if there ins't any. turn off the ignition and let it sit for half an hour and it might learn the new lights. i have had to do this even when replacing a factory light with a factory light