Thomcat

I imagine they work well. Made my own custom pedal commander on my '16 from a paint stirrer stick. Seems on the previous gen there was about 1/4" play between the plastic pedal bracket and the firewall; movement would bog down when the pedal was first pressed until it contacted the firewall. Many posts on this forum praised the paint stick - but it made a big difference in response -sorry I waited a year before trying it. The '19s fixed the bracket problem but the difference in adding a pedal commander appears to provide a similar faster pedal response.

Life is a game......some of us play chess; some checkers......better to move fast always prepared for battle making sacrifices where necessary for greater gain, than sliding along always forward smiling with no chance for retreat just begging to get jumped. Moo moo was out of her league trying to impose social justice for a matter legally assigned to police officials. A checker player hoping for a social checkmate to become an internet celebrity at someone else's expense, but she forgot too examine the board carefully and make a valid tactical decision.....result, King takes Pawn......moo moo waddles away with cell phone and useless video. Good riddance, hope she learned a lesson to mind her own business and get a life.........if she doesn't the next person may not be as civil as I was.

Actually have a combo smoke/CO detector under the passenger seat of the vehicle.....cheap enough, just transferred from the '16 to the '19. Good insurance, but wasn't intended primarily for the vehicle although good assurance for that purpose and as a convenient place for storage. Fitted with a doorknob hanger for use when staying overnight at any hotel or motel.

Goody for you, I don't. Permanently disabled passes designed for base mirror mounts are issued for 5 year expiry in this State, and after years in the heat being constantly transferred between vehicles squashed around models with different mirror mounts with GM windshield object recognition - autobraking camera systems for which they were not designed. Law states "prominently posted on display on the windshield" not only on the mirror so it is visible to some busybody hausfrau in a moo moo can see it. If it is good enough for me top meet our legal requirements and personnel in U.S. law enforcement to recognize and not issue a summons.......then it's good enough for any two-shoes busybody that should know what they are doing before they go tilting at some imaginary windmill. And I was a gentleman giving her only a verbal castigation, what she rightly deserved was a kick in the a$$. And you miss the point entirely - the bad mouthing (ooooooh - oooooooh) was done for a specific purpose - to embarrass the photographer making her look like a fool and thus discourage from her posting her video on the internet showing my vehicle and plate number. Your logic might make some sense to somebody in less populated areas North of the 49th parallel, not down here. Doesn't take much these days to inspire another lame-o hausfrau, a self appointed crusader or group of them to annoy me or worse show up at my doorstep. Could make for a real dicey confrontation in a "Constitutional right to carry" and "right to no retreat" State.........these concepts might seem foreign to our Northern neighbors.

Retired at 58, now 69.....sound like we both took good some advice from Ramsey (me with a little incentive from that self help guy Wu who would pose on his yacht with girls in bikinis hawking his self help book.....saved my money being motivated by him and NOT buying his books/course). Kids educations never cost me a dime, all full scholarships, commuting to local colleges and part time jobs to pay for their books. Now, all with good jobs and well married....even my daughter with a Summa Cum Laude in Studio Art which I had advised was useless degree....self taught computers and graphic arts and parlayed it into a career as a sought after high paid contractor........and they do spend money like drunken fools. Gross more than I ever did and periodically stick it in my face asking if we could use a few extra bucks.....fortunately we don't. No collector cars for me, drove them when they were new and that was enough for fond memories.....now it's ever on to newer ones with more gizmos. Similar to you, worked my a$$ off when younger and able, made the right choices, and raised the children straight and narrow, so I similarly offer the old Walter Brennan tag line....."No brag, just fact".

Agree+++ Been there done that. I did have one reason to refinance from a higher rate.........to keep the payments static and extract time not cash...........e.g. 25 years remaining on a 30 year mortgage, refinance at a lower rate with same monthly payments on a new 20 year.....knocked 5 years off mortgage, etc. Added benefits when buying a new home when builder's offer $5-$10K closing costs for using their lender with a one month skate on the first payment....always open ended because most new buyers cannot afford a cash buy....pay off in full on first payment......use equity to finance purchased of a rental.

Good reason for this, to prevent someone from accidentally killing himself or his family....and possibly why a timeout on the remote start also. With a key ignition you must shut off the engine to remove the key and take it with you when you leave the vehicle. Not so with a keyless ignition where the engine will run or turn off with a push of the dash button with the fob remaining your pocket. It is possible to forget to hit the dash button and exit the vehicle leaving the engine running. Park in a garage attached to the house and go to bed with the engine running all night or until it runs out of gas and the family may not wake up.

Nowadays, that's no assurance that it happen anyway. Might consider a sign in the window saying engine and A/C are on. Hopefully it will prevent some goody two shoes deciding they want to be an internet hero and save the dogs by attracting a crowd and smashing open a window (hopefully the dogs will bite their a$$ if they do). A few months ago came back to my truck and some overweight hausfrau in a moo-moo was taking a video of my truck for posting on the internet offering her 2 cents commentary how some inconsiderate A-hole was parking in a disabled space without a pass. I strung together a few expletives to spice up her video along with comments that if she was as tall as she was wide and her glasses weren't as thick as her neck she might have seen the disabled pass with the damaged mirror hanger displayed at the bottom of the front windshield. Lucky for her she waddled off before my wife came out of the store......my comments must have discouraged her from posting it, but I really would have liked a copy to show my friends. Just sayin'....plenty of 'em out there.

Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature. Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

Well that's the trick isn't it? Was a momentary switch instead of a toggle placed there on purpose and if so why, to meet technicalities of CAFE requirements or simply because GM wanted to break customers' ba!!s....? S/s is so intrusive onto the guts of the vehicle, it may have been done on purpose to trigger a diagnostic or flexing phase of system components normally flexed on startup to prevent damage from long term disuse. It's not just the hd starter and split solenoid, not just the pressure maintenance systems in the tranny, but other crazy kludges to keep the vehicle in operation/readiness during a stop cycle like the aux. electrical vacuum pump for brake booster, aux electric circulator pump for the coolant, high energy electrical capacitors, DC-DC inverter for maintaining constant voltage to accessories, servos for maintaining oil pressure on the lifters, etc., etc. when engine is in a stop cycle. Absent a written assurance from any gizmo maker that they will make good for paying the cost for repair of any damage attributed by a GM dealer to the gizmo as grounds for invalidating the warranty (whether or not a valid claim). I'll pass on this and give the s/s button the finger when I feel like it.

Does the blank white speed sign on the left show then current speed limit for the road as the car is traveling? Otherwise, the Denali cluster shown doesn't interface 100% with the Silverado DIC settings. That blank white sign with the two dashes is the posted speed limit sign for the current road. Interfaces with the factory Nav system in the vehicle and can be shown along the mph in the cluster or hidden and shown in a separate info screen. Personally I find it annoying and move it to a separate info screen and the tiny mph figures enlarge accordingly to fill the space. Updated the Traverse factory Nav and one of the posted speed limits also changed on the icon indicating it feeds off the Nav software and not the satellite antenna (may work with OnStar subscription? but you still need the settings in the DIC.. Unless an LTZ, no factory Navs in the '19 and no pages in the DIC for showing it or placing it on the screen

Look of the sports bar on the '19 looks cheaper than the previous gen which had a red plate bolted to the frame with a painted red insert 0o the SILVERADO letters popped. Easily solved for less than $10, piece of black textured plastic, surround with 3M tape and paint red or whatever the color of the body on the smooth side. Peel and stick and looks just like the previous version. .

Agree Horsepower is horsepower, as I remember it GM pulled this same stunt in the 60s using an Olds Vistacruiser with rocket V8 and nothing unique to an electric motor, just simple physics. Gimmick is to use an automatic with a HD torque converter and a good tranny cooler, attempt this stunt with a manual tranny and you'd fry the clutch long before anything begins to move. Ditto using an electric motor as the engine with a standard tranny. All you have to do is apply a constant very, very gradually increasing amount of power without overheating the torque convertor. Then after coupler slack is taken up, the conscript with a max. weight equivalent to the summation of the individual weight of each unit of rolling stock times the coefficient of the rolling friction for the trucks on the unit and eventually the conscript will begin to move. Max speed is limited to keeping the tranny fluid temps below the point where the torque convertor will blow or the tranny pump can no longer apply enough pressure to hold the bands against the gear sets, and the coefficient of friction of the truck tires against the surface. Might even be practical to substitute an electric truck in place of a 10,000 hp diesel electric locomotive, though might take the goods a long time to get to market when limited to a max. speed of 5 mph or with a rate of acceleration of 0-5 mph in 4 hours to never......and if absent an air brake hookup, good luck trying to stop it without the truck being pushed into the next State.

I overthink everything when it comes to possibly screwing up something and end up out of State with a broken down vehicle having a dealer tell me "tough $hit warranty invalid" even if it a technicality that did not effect the electrical failure......and told to prove it In actuality I'm amazed how well the system works compared to their first try in my '16 Malibu. The V8 starts just as seamlessly as the smaller V6 in my Traverse. Here's basis for my .02 opinion and pet peeve concerning the issue.......... For two years since buying my '18 Traverse, whiners on the Traverse board have been complaining about the inclusion of a s/s system on their new gen Traverse. Their main complaint relative to s/s was that they wish, they really, really wish, that GM had included a defeat button on the system like on the Cadillac or Honda, yada, yada......and GM was so stupid and inconsiderate for not including one......like reaching to the dash to press a defeat button was so much more trouble than clicking the (+) button which is already on the shift lever 7 times to L8 to defeat the system and would wear out their thumb. And comparatively few complaints about the system being introduced into the new gen vehicle as opposed to no defeat button. Now that GM has placed a defeat button in the new gen Silverado, resulting in their acquiescing to such customer complaints, now the complaint is get it out altogether or my car, my decision I'll outsmart you by wiring in a gizmo that I personally have no idea how it works or long term effects and do it myself and so all you can do is to invalidate my warranty. People act as if they're upset a s/s system was somehow magically installed into the vehicle after the sale. Mine was there before the test ride, used it during the test ride and bought it anyway and vehicle is still doing everything it was designed to do before the sale. Process is called Caveat Emptor. My main complaint with the Silverado is that it is somehow grounded, no matter what the speed it can't fly, and no defeat button for taking it airborne either. But, I'll fix GM just as soon as an aftermarket comes out with a non OEM invention to slap a GE90 turbofan into the bed.

My '16 Malibu had the old two battery s/s system - primitive crap. The '18 has the refined DC-DC inverter system with the single AGM battery just like the '18 Traverse. seamless starting. Besides on these without a defeat switch, all you have to do is shift to Lx where x is the highest gear and s/s is defeated with full auto operation. Besides s/s is not to save gas, but to save the planet Earth, same BS. Your complaint belongs with your Congressional reps to ease CAFE standards which encourage these ridiculous systems to save gas.

A Silverado, A Traverse and A Malibu...........found it to be the perfect GM lineup for my needs........A Donkey, A Taxi and A combo grocery-getter / visitor scooter.

That's the same argument I made against seat belts in '63 and airbags in '95. And whether or not these B.S.gimmicks actually save gas is irrelevant what matters is what tax incentives the manufacturer gets for putting the crap on to claim they meet CAFE standards and fleet mileages. And it will only get worse. If planning to buy a new vehicle in the future that doesn't have any of this......next truck may be a '00 Silverado.

A non sequitur. Existence of a bypass button is irrelevant to the subject. And GM engineers certainly did not envision or plan for someone gutting Humpty Dumpty and planting a gizmo in his guts.. Every time you start the truck the s/s default is ON not off...so maybe it cycles the system and flexes the servos on startup before the button is active and the gizmo prevents that.....and maybe it doesn't......but one thing is for certain neither of us know for certain whether it does or not. But one thing is certain, there is a good reason why you don't f%#@ with a system under warranty. So, pray you don't breakdown on the side of the road and get towed to the nearest GM dealer with an electrical/ECU/BCU problem. If the dealer upon testing discovers an unknown gizmo in the system, whether or not it actually caused a problem, he has grounds and the power to void your warranty and costs for the repair is on you. Plenty of guidance from GM to dealers on this matter......advised the first thing the check for is a foreign electrical component in the system

I notice there's not too many (none) senior enthusiast posters jumping to stuff this in their $50K toy. Been around too long to trust a fairly new gizmo designed to fool a complex system.in my toy. Here's my .02 worth of opinion: Easier to hit the stupid button every now and then than to disable s/s by giving Humpty Dumpty a console-ectomy. Only takes 15 mins to install the gizmo and that's exactly how long it takes to void the electrical warranty and possibly the starter motor and transmission warranty. Once a dealer detects installation of an aftermarket electrical gizmo you're warranty is SOL. Ever occur that although you can do something, but maybe you shouldn't? Maybe not such a good idea to permanently defeat the system unless you know how it affects other systems in the long term. Not familiar with the s/s operation and the Silvy 8 speed, but plenty of info out there on s/s operation on transverse tranny setups with GM 6, 8 and 9 speeds. Defeat systems gizmos for the Traverse are a quickie 1 minute install/remove under the hood and involve modification of the remote start procedure. But they can be removed without a time consuming revision console-ectomy and thus no longer detectable when brought to the dealer for service, because when detected it is grounds for the dealer voiding the electrical warranty, and maybe other systems which are flexed on remote restart. A permanent defeat type system does not flex any of the normally cycling s/s components, i.e. split starter solenoid engagement of the flywheel, pressure servo in the tranny, etc.. Might be worth a little more research and guinea pig usage before wiring a non OEM gizmo into a $50K toy that you hope to keep under warranty Some background info on s/s systems, some GM pubs: https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8495 https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8493 https://gm-techlink.com/?p=7575 http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-transmissions/9txx/ https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1109687_dont-start-stop-systems-wear-out-your-cars-starter My main reason for not sticking one in my Traverse, which lacks a simple defeat switch, concerns long term effects on the tranny. When the motor is stopped so are the pressure generating pump and servos in the tranny designed to apply pressure to the bands during an auto stop cycle. Absent constant pressure results in a delayed restart and possible band slippage upon waking from an autostop cycle. To prevent this a hydraulic servo is recharged while the engine is running and the pressure maintained on the tranny's bands fed during the stop cycle for a seamless start and takeoff. The question I asked myself is: What will happen to the condition of the servos and hydraulic activators designed for millions of cycles if they remained idle for months, years? Likewise the ability of the forward end of the split solenoid to disengage after years of idle attachment to the rear half. Not good when mechanical/hydraulic automotive components remain idle for a long period. Can't exactly say years of research went into a gizmo designed for a 2019 GM product. I've decided it's easier to push a button for now and let others act as guinea pigs. Looking forward to users re-posts in a few years.

Used two light setup because it matches the stock setup for $995. GM OEM lighting option for the sports bar. Same size and appearance as OEM. Less than $20 on Ebay for 3"x6" lights https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X6inch-36W-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Flood-Beam-FOR-Car-SUV-Off-Road-Fog-Lamp-CH35O/123841664781?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and I was surprised - they are not crap either! Cast aluminum housings, stainless steel mounting hardware and Cree LEDs. Others sizes and shapes offered in listings. The $975 saved will easily cover the costs of wiring, switch, relay and fuse tap for DIY hookup..

There's no two on at the same time, whether stock or added on. It doesn't use the stock third brake light....with the factory option in the '19s the stock third brake light is deactivated so it doesn't light, instead only the LED brake light on the rear of the bar is active. My '16 did not come with the sports bar......I added it.The power wires for the LED brake light are internal and snaked through the stake hole on the driver's side to the front engine fuse box. GM's instructions called for removing the fuse box and deactivating the wire going to the third brake light and substituting the positive from the bar's LED.......this way the stock light is deactivated and only the bar's rear LEDs active. No way I was going to pull the fuse block .....instead, easy peezy....remove the original third brake light fuse and substitute a dual piggyback fuse tap...insert only the fuse for the pigtail feeding the bar's LEDs and leaving out the the second fuse feeding the stock brake light......then only the LED bar will light and no power will feed the stock light.......less than five minutes to insert tap and connect the pigtail to the positive feed.......... no pulling the fuse block and easily reversible/removable for swapping to the new Silverado (didn't do mine because the '19s was black to match the rest of the RST's blackout trim and dealer boosted the trade price to leave it). And as far as the 8 Cree LEDs in the bar's lighting being inferior to the stock, one filament bulb....uh, uh, much brighter And I have a tonneau cover on the '19 which also has internal LED lamps built into the bed. My '16 didn't have them and add on bar blocked most of the bed lighting......no problem......... LED bed lamps made specifically for lighting the bed under the cover are easily installed in those lacking them fed by an dedicated unused electrical tap fed by the bed lighting switch near the spare tire and wires snaked behind the driver's lamp into the bed.....another less than 30 min job. However, bar does cost $995 but dealer met the $875 internet price which was good because it cost $150 shipping if buying on line; that is a valid one reason for not opting for it.

So what's stopping you? Bed lighting and CHMSL are mounted in an angled pod on the '19. In addition bar contains predrilled hole for aux lighting and running wires. The sports bar contains an integral rear facing LED bar replacing and brighter than the stock lamp in then pod. Stock roof pod directs bed lighting downwards at 45 degrees clearing the bar and lighting the bed area. No light blockage .

Went out of my way to get an RST with it , just like my old '16 Silvy......off road lights are coming for the '19. On '19 sportsbar does not get in the way of the cab lights because the assembly is tilted downward underneath the sports bar....doesn't matter anyway with the additional in bed lights. Extra lights on top of the bar are useful off load and separates it from the classic look of a pickup. Projects the message that it's a versatile sporty people mover like the Avalanches and sometime heavy, bulky $hit hauler.......not just an ordinary service vehicle meant for transporting a pile of rocks or manure.

Sounds nuts, shouldn't be more than a 30 minute install. Center insert piece (must be removed first) of mirror shroud pops out. Spread sides of remaining shroud and it slides off. Loosen torx nut and slide off old mirror. Install new mirror with attached "new" two wire harness (Why the heck would you waste time and risk breaking crap by removing the overhead console and tapping into wiring?) Pull decorative covers and remove bolts on passenger grab handle (no need to remove handle), remove passenger fuse panel, push wires under headliner, behind handle molding and down to the fuse compartment below. Positive wire to fuse tap on an ignition on source such as heated steering wheel and negative to a ground source metal dash support inside fuse cavity. Easy in-easy out and no compromising of factory wiring or connectors.

.02 Think of this as a spare tire, not worth the reduced mileage dragging it around and serves no purpose until you need it. Bluetooth is nothing more than an interface with the cellphone...it is the cellphone and not the more powerful carphone that connects to a cell tower. Might not make a difference driving a city grocery-getter with a cell phone tower on every other corner. But not when out in the real world with wide open spaces, mountains, deserts etc. with limited towers. A cheapo provider with sporadic coverage and a cellphone with its' miniature antenna and limited pi$$ poor power output so it doesn't fry your brain gets you no bars somewhere in an unknown ditch after an accident whereas the more powerful built-in phone with the roof wart mounted microwave antenna will be enough to get your signal out and identify your location.