.02 Unfortunately greater sales numbers do not always translate to greater quality, durability, experience or intelligence of choice. I know Chryslers first hand, I went through 20 years of them before going back to Chevys. In mid 70s when the other "big 3" were switching to front drive designing new 4 and V6 FWD transverse engines , Chrysler started using imported French engines and drivetrains....almost forgot the Mitsubishi interference engines which shredded cambelts at 60K miles and scrapped the cars. Chrysler stuck without updated engines and drivetrains for their heavy RWDs went back to their old fallback of reworking out of date technology engines like when they took their great 50s young design slant 6 and iron V8s into the 80s era RWDs where their grandpa lead sleds choked on all the emissions mods. Once again out of money and out of ideas they sucked their last breath in the '90s when Daimler used them stripping their electronic technology out of them and then forcing use of their engines and drivetrains only to be used and soon dumped like cheap whore. Now we get to today when they are owned by Italian Fiat, the first choice of European bottomfeeders, an honor once held by the Yugoslavian Yugo. The only good point of Chrysler engines is they are more durable than the bodies and the bodies are total crap. Time will show how great that fantastic looking interior remains fantastic looking. Instead of dying in color, cheapo solution used on mine was to manufacture in gray and spray paint a colored finish. Evidently gray was the base color of the leather dust and polymer mix they use on the molded "leather" seats. I rubbed their gold door panels too hard when cleaning and that was the color that bled through. Their white and gold leather seats absorbed the dye from blue jeans which could not be removed by cleaning and turned grey if rubbed too hard, leaving a choice of white and blue or white, blue and grey. Only positive I can say is that most are a good looking so I prefer to look at others driving them. Once the sales continue to drop on that Volkswagen beetle wannabee Fiat is trying to hawk in the USA out of Chrysler showrooms it is arrivederci once again and likely they'll be begging for a Chinese takeover.
Maybe the reason there was not a big change in the interior of the '19 over my previous '16 was because there was no real reason to do so. Interior changes in the '19 are not so much to do with impressing someone with wood accents, color stitched leather, or huge display screens with touch button requiring the driver to take eyes off the road, but with refinement of existing ergonomics. Controls use buttons and knobs where necessary and touch screen buttons where operation requires many multiple buttons concentrated in a relatively small space necessitating use of multiple visual screens. And unlike a lot of competitors' interiors and controls, all the controls in the '19 are visible and conveniently at arms length, in particular the often used steering wheel controls, from the drivers position. Further the movements are intuitive and where necessary, especially with the factory Nav, replicated in the central drivers 4" display. If I want to be stunned by graphics there's always 4K TVs/discs; I want and expect rapid unconfused graphics in a vehicle. In fact I was initially disappointed by the simple less colorful in the new Nav, admittedly somehow easier to read, until on the Interstates.When approaching and exit it not only autozooms as it approaches, but in split screen shows and the exact colored graphic of the upcoming overhead exit signs plus accurate depiction of the highway lanes and exit ramp including and travel of route to be taken on approach to and exit off the exit ramp. A top mounted 8" display with half a dozen touch buttons at drivers eye level is better than any 12" display below drivers eye level with dozens of confusing touch buttons further than an arm length for a majority of people seated at the driver's position. All controls are marked and lighted, the interior door handles even lighted for a nice touch. For those who think the materials look cheap, well then at least all the materials look equally cheap and blend in nicely and don't look great on the dashboard for the driver and like crap on the ceiling and doors. And I have no problem reaching and operating all controls while still keeping hands and the wheel and eyes on the road. Wouldn't mind if they keep it as is in the next version.
Take this for what it is worth - an educated guess. I'm no tranny genius, only from reading operation of start stop as it applied my 9 speed, but logic dictates it may also apply to all start stops. If so, these new gen 8/10 speeds or even 6 speeds if it has start stop must share a the design function like the 2nd gen Traverses 9 speeds. I've no idea if this will occur only if start stop is active on every initial movement after a gear change or if the function operates only on release from an auto stop, but should likely also apply to all initial forward movement situations or transitions from "R" to "D" when servo pressures to different drums are being applied or braked for transitioning gears. By design when the engine is stopped the hydraulic pressure pump inside the tranny is not turning so no hydraulic pressure, in particular on the servo applying pressure to the drum holding the planetary gearset for first gear which is necessary for immediate engagement and movement in "D" or "L". A loss in pressure will result in a delayed engagement and slamming into first as the pressure is restored or could result in starting movement of a different gear whose operation requires release of its drum. Maybe this is why a delayed first engagement or why tranny starts in a different gear when the first gear drum is in released position and then slams into first when the pressure is applied???? But why only on start stop? As a result of sporadic pressure cycling of the main hydraulic pump in the tranny ALL the start stop trannys use an "accumulator" system that maintains pressure on the servo holding 1st gear with the engine off in an autostop. Not sure if this will also occur on a normal stop like when shifting from "R" to "D" with the engine is still running, but it is likely since the accumulator fed by the pump and not the pump itself is designed for full time pressure application to all tranny servos. I would guess just like the vacuum reservoir in a power brake system. Bu "accumulator", the best description of what is used in start stop systems is listed in the second document below as: "the auxiliary transmission fluid pump motor or auxiliary transmission fluid accumulator solenoid valve that maintains proper transmission fluid pressures while the engine is off". Whether this is the case or not the failures described would fit nicely in a situation where the the tranny's hydraulic pump is functioning, but there is a problem causing bleed down of hydraulic pressure in the accumulator or alternatively an electric auxiliary transmission fluid pump if used. http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-transmissions/9txx/ https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8495
Not any more......there's 4 including the micro2 which is the 7.5 in the photo ...... permits loads more fuses in a smaller box. The heated steering wheel is a micro2....had a hard time finding a fuse tap for that size, let alone a fuse. Reused the 7.5 for the main fuse in the micro2 tap and a 5 for the pigtail feeding the self dimming mirror I added......the heated steering wheel fuse is an excellent place for an ignition controlled tap. https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Circuit-MICRO2-Adapter-Holder/dp/B07K866RPR/ref=asc_df_B07K866RPR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316747946823&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14521907637572293053&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-586493323860&psc=1 Only place I found my mico2 replacement like my 7.5 was in an expensive set https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-00940570ZXA-Commercial-Assortment-135-Piece/dp/B01N16GVY4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=micro2+automotive+fuses&qid=1571009975&s=electronics&sr=1-5
Use a 5A in the interim.....just as safe as the higher value fuse. What's the worst that can happen? If it blows you're no worse than when you started and might point indicate there's a problem in the circuit. If it doesn't it's there's no problem in the circuit and will give you operation until you can find one.
I always buy in State. One reason is I don't want holes in my front bumper, my State only uses a rear plate and surrounding States use two plates and all the cars on their lots have front plate holders. Front plates/brackets all look like $hit, compared to no plate and no holes, especially on my former Camaro, and no out of State dealer will remove and re-sheath the front bumper cover gratis. Yes, dealers do give preference to their customers and more so to repeat customers! They'd be morons if they didn't. That's who pays their freight on the new sales portion of the dealership. I've bought 10 Chevys in the past 13 years for myself and family from the same dealer. Why? Because a really smart one like mine is fine with me visiting all the dealers in the quad state area first and getting the lowest price which he WILL price match on an equivalent priced one on his lot....sometimes if not an exact one offering is on the lot, sometimes for the same price a similar one with a higher MSRP already dedicated with additional GM dealer cash credited from a prior month's sales. So yeah, I know all the salesmen and service personnel and they know me. In some instances I can get an accommodation like a same day or next day appointment for a problem, which I realize I would never be able to get from another dealer. Case in point was during this strike when my new Traverse shift lever "Shift to Park" crapped out and replacement was difficult or impossible to get. Instead of stuffing me in a Equinox loaner and saying "see you whenever" they dismantled the lever mechanism and reassembled and epoxied the damaged switch for continued use of my Traverse in the interim. This despite it being questionable whether GM would credit him for later warranty replacement of the epoxied, returned part after the new part was installed. And somehow he got the part despite the strike and four days later I'm rolling down the road with the replacement shift lever.
There's a similar one out for my '18 Malibu harness.......luckily I got to it before the edge of the battery case had only eaten through the sheathing and not 'yet completely through the wires' insulation inside. GM wouldn't replace and I had to cover all contact points with a protective length of slit rubber hose twist tied closed and reanchored. And yes, wire to wire repair is a garbage solution......didn't work for too long in my Daughter's Neon where rats had eaten through the wiring. In a vehicle where the ECU uses resistance measurements to identify and determine the status of sensors, a poorly done wire to wire repair, initially or after aging, can cause problems that are difficult to diagnose.
.02 People are driving these more like cars than trucks with a few passengers and very little weight in the bed so the rear springs never get a workout. Seems the springs may need a little flexing under load to free up the sliding movement of the ends of the leafs, and a little oil spray didn't hurt, especially after sitting with that crap they spray on. When new mine rode like there was only a single leaf. Couldn't have been just road force balance that helped with the ride of the 22s, 2K+ miles a load of firewood and towing the boat sure flexed the springs especially when going up hills. Suspension is just right now, any looser and it would see-saw towing over humped RR crossings. Workout mellowed the ride right out, even rides better now when unloaded with just the front passengers. Want a real gut busting ride? Take out the Ford flatbed loaner from Home Depot.
Shouldn't be taking it to anyone for service who doesn't have the brains to realize that their lift pads must be placed on frame for raising the vehicle. But a sticky to alert everyone to what is in the manual couldn't hurt, and not just to ask but verify before you let them touch the truck. First thing I did when I saw it had dealer installed 22s and verified they were using them when they later road force balanced them. Nobody is touching those wheels or lifting the truck other than the dealer or me anyway. My dealer's bays are not only equipped with adapters for the new wider frames but they have tapped/padded sockets dedicated for removal of the black gloss wheels on my Silverado, Traverse and Malibu. And they will be gone before ready for new tires anywhere else.
Bolt holes standard on bar....added two cheapo halogens Auxbeams under $30/pair on EBay.....GM wants $995 for their OEM identical looking add on kit. Hooked up using a plug in 12v transformer to the lighted dash switch controlled for the 110v bed outlet.....sure saved a lot of time and under vehicle wiring, firewall entry, relay, tapping into the fusebox and an under the dash switch.
Good advice to check the build date on vehicles around strike time. Dad had a beer bottle inside the door of his Biscayne and I had bolts sliding around inside my HVAC vents in a Cordoba and a Volare with a windshield lacking sealant purchased during strike time. Strikers actually screwed themselves along with their products.....this kind of poor quality crap and sabotage is what turned buyers to imports and they screwed themselves when low sales caused their layoffs.
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