Too many years driving and too much brains to do that. But keep doing it and someday you may run into someone with an equivalent amount of brains and driving ethics driving my my setup of 6 LED highs, plus 2x8" on the sports bar plus a 40" in the grille and find out who the real idiot is.
Could be a simple adjustment.....But, If you have HID projectors, the shutters may not be operating.....if so could be a bad fuse or relay. When you move the stalk for high beams you should hear mechanical shutters opening to convert from the normal low beam to expose more light to create a high beam. If no clicking noises are heard under the hood in both headlight areas when moving the high beam stalk, the shutter system is broken and your low beams are inoperative and you are on default high beam even though the blue dash light may not be lit..
Normally I go for if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it was me I'd go for it......this is a personal decision if the dealer is willing to do it without symptoms. Shouldn't be any downside if there are no existing problems and no worse than a normal fluid change, Only downside is it may not correct an existing, but shouldn't cause any problems if none exist. They did change fluid for a good reason change fluids for a good reason to the point opf providing specialized equipment and procedures to assure a 100% swap. Dealer may not go for it without symptoms just like they didn't go for a prophylactic TSB change of the redesigned valve cover and install a shield over my AFM discharge valve in my '07 low mileage Avalanche to prevent oil burning before it clogged the AFM cylinder rings while still under warranty.....if still around that unmodified vehicle is likely burning a lot of oil.
I agree there should be a heads up on transmissions (and engines) before ordering. So here's my .02 on this. Much more likely that the 6 speed AFM V8 will be dumped once existing stock is gone rather than the than the 8 speed DFM V8. Seems GM appears to have their act together with the newer 8 speeds that come stock with Mobil1 LVHP instead of that hydroscopic Dextron. No complaints with my newer rev. post 3/19 production 8 speed and I save mucho bucks using regular gas instead of more expensive diesel, not to mention the cost of hundreds of gallons of DEF and standing outside in freezing weather like a goofball hand pouring DEF into the second gas tank. Instead of pissing away another $3500-$4000 (press release says $2495 - maybe they should check out the MSRPs on their website) in a GM diesel I6 10 speed go for the V8 with the post 3/19 8 speed. Plus you'll save a lifetime and the added expense of another $.40 - .50/gal for diesel and expense and hand pouring hundreds gallons of DEF into the second fuel tank. Does it make sense to get better mileage and then have to spend more for each gallon of fuel? And no way an I6 diesel, or even an I6 gas engine is as smooth as a V8. For those that insist on a 10 speed, same amount of money gets the more powerful 6.2 V8. For those that want to save the $3-4K to buy some cookies. And with those bucks you can buy plenty of options for the truck, perhaps even surprise your partner with a nice gift (who is equipped to provide a lot more satisfaction than you're gonna get from that diesel!). To avoid any hassles with the previous 8 speed hassle check the door sticker for post 3/19 production which contains the later rev.of the 8 speed (RPO code- MQE TRANSMISSION, 8-SPEED AUTOMATIC ) that comes prefilled with the new Mobil 1 juice and while you're at it also the GM manufactured front axle (RPO code- F48 - CHASSIS DRIVE LINE-FOUR WHEEL DRIVE(4WD) FWI - PLANT CODE FT WAYNE, IN, USA) that doesn't jingle like the alternative from a non GM aftermarket supplier. And it's a GM diesel - we are not talking about a Cummins quality diesel -, but a newly designed GM diesel with a crap load of emissions equipment including sucking DEF along with diesel. Last innovative attempts by GM to stick a newly designed diesel in a car resulted in the POS they dumped into Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs....after 3 years of ownership they were as desirable as and worth less than a Yugo. Apparently GM has waited until that generation owners and designers is mostly gone and the angst forgotten, but I can still hear my uncle cursing every time we would annoy him ask about his GM diesel which soon cost him plenty of bucks to rip out and replace with a gas retrofit. And hope potential diesel owners have a warm garage and not parking them outside in really cold weather without first dumping in plenty of kerosene or fuel thinner. Because they can be a b*tch to start, if even possible, once the diesel fuel waxes in the lines, a real b*tch! And there's always the added bonus that diesel fuel can cause serious damage to your car's paint job, tires also, if left unwashed. Might want to research this a little further before throwing money away.....plenty of info just Google "waxing of diesel fuel" and "effects of diesel fuel on paint"......might also want to check out what happens to your diesel ride if your DEF tank runs dry.
I'd go for it, My '15 Camaro did not have fogs and the Gen5DIY fogs and harness worked just fine. Same for the LED conversion for the tungsten running lights in my '17 Impala, even gave two choices of GM LEDs or a cheaper aftermarket which was identical and different harness choices pepending upon OEM operation or on with headlights..
Was the HVAC system module programmed by the dealer for "afterblow". Programmed "off" as the default...my dealer had set mine to on to prevent the an odor buildup in the evaporator core after shutting off in a humid environment. When feature is set to "on" the blower motor will continue to go through an on/off/on cycle after ignition off to remove remaining condensate from the coil.Could be something jammed the motor after you exited and that's when the fire started.
.02 Regarding the fluid change there's one thing to consider. Vehicles w/8 spds manufactured after 3/19 come stock with the new Mobil1.....GM didn't substitute an outside supplier brand for their own Dextron just for laughs......there is a reason why the Dextron which is as hydroscopic as ever used in previous trannys going way back now messes up in certain * speed trannys. I have no idea why GM mad a decision for a major flush and fill but could be that certain parts are affected by hydrated Dextron, but could it be because of how affects mating surfaces, degrades components, driving conditions, environmental conditions, changes viscosity affecting servo fill rates, etc.? But whatever the reason according to posts here appears a refill with Mobi1 fluid corrects some but not others.....seems like a major commitment to do a complete flush shipping special equipment for the operation as described in the TSB above..........So..possibly the ones that work were flushed correctly and the tranny suffered no permanent damage operating in the interim on the Dextron and the ones that did not could possibly be because the flush was not done properly or it was done properly and damage not correctable by the change had already occurred or the vehcile was driven improperly and under conditions which caused damage not correctable by a fluid refill. And as far as my first hard 1-2 upshift after an overnight cold is definitely temperature related ....instead of just zipping out below 32F, idling and warming the tyranny to around 85F first mitigates or eliminates the first hard 1-2 upshift quirk.
Likely has nothing to do with the size of the truck or bed. Had a Lund cover on my '16 and factory OEM one on my '19 which looks identical to the previous Lund with the exception of the rear tailgate seal and relocation of the release and therein lies the reason. Most 19+ are equipped with a remote release tailgate or motorized tailgate which is INcompatible with almost all tailgate seals on previous brand covers. Covers either rest upon or have their waterproof seals rest on top of the tailgate. This will interfere and cause failure to release of the remote/motorized tailgates. The revised version of my cover no longer rests upon the top of the tailgate but about 3/4" above the lip and the waterproof seal has been changed to a 3" vertical seal that rests upon the rear surface of the tailgate and does not interfere with remote gate drop.
I believe that the Z71 option w/2 spd transfer case is not compatible with RST builds which instead come standard with 4 driving mode (touring, trailer, sport and off road) operation. Sport mode (checkered flag icon) does not emulate 4Lo, merely adjusts shift points upward. RSTs, stock with a single speed transfer case and 4 driving mode option, have an Off Road button replacing the 4Lo button. The Off Road (lower right) button will simulate the speed/gearing of 4Lo position in the two speed transfer case; but, without the same amount of torque.
It isn't an AT4 but it is blacked out. Only chrome left is the surround on the front bowtie. Black matte finish on hood and rain deflectors, blackout and body color lettering, tinted plexi over fogs, and replaced all chrome with GM black gloss badging. Plenty of info on Youtube about removing badging without damage. Basically heated lettering with a hairdryer/heatgun, removed plastic letters from backing by sawing action with dental floss and removed adhesive backing with a latex eraser wheel, about $10 from Amazon. You can alternatively spend a and hour or two removing the backing with Goo Gone, plastic razor blades and plenty of elbow grease or in 30 sec with the eraser wheel.
There's no law requiring manufacturers to stock replacement parts for vehicles or appliances.....industry custom, at their discretion, is to maintain them for 10 years. And not aware of any Government mandated requirements for side mirrors, nor can a summons for safety infractions be issued for a vehicle which came stock without one, not so for one that has a missing or damaged stock mirror. Passenger side mirrors didn't come in vogue until manufacturers started include other stock features such as A/C, electric locks, windows and mirrors. When was the last time you bought a new vehicle and had to reach across the passenger seat and use a crank to roll down a window?......Ans. = the days when you could rollout with a new F150 for under $10K
What makes you think it is a slider? Looks like it is stationary to me. Logically placed there to orient a driver reaching down to distinguish the RND buttons by feel instead of having to look down at the buttons to select the proper gear, i.e N button is next to the upraised plastic piece, R next to the indentation above and D next to the indentation below the plastic piece. Comes in handy when the dash lights are low or off at nighhtime.
And to sum it up, it all depends upon your needs and pocket book.The profile of the tire changes with the size of the wheel and the larger the wheel size, the smaller the height of the sidewall so with tires from the same manufacturer the smaller wheel size is less susceptible to harshness and wheel damage because of the greater sidewall height to absorb road imperfections, off road travel conditions and the occasional pothole at the expense of reduced directional stability and performance. Had aggressive treads 17's on the Goodyears on my Z71s and found them to be noisy and give a typical smooth, "snow tire" ride. Would be a great benefit on gravel, dirt, mud and deep snow all of which I never normally encounter, most I'd do was to go to a campground or maybe an off road jog on grassy hill areas or low brush in a wooded area. I don't even need them for snow because the main State roads/school bus routes are plowed before I can have breakfast, putter around and then clean the snow off the truck or SUV. Problem with these type of high profile, aggressive tread tires is loss of directional stability in a tight turn on a wet surface or a fast start from a stop sign or traffic light where the surface is compromised with a buildup of fluids from previously stopped vehicles. My early morning spins on paved back roads and hairpin turns would cause rear wheel slides even in Auto. So this time there was no sense getting a Trail Boss with knobby tires, been there done that, so went for a pavement princess type setup on an RST with optional $3K larger 22" wheels w/ Bridgestone Alenza lower profile tires and normal sipe patterns on the tires which is more suitable to my driving situations. No doubt with a single speed transfer case and less aggressive tread pattern I'd have a problem with a heavy snow, mud or rock crawling but I'm not doing that......I sleep in for a heavy snow until roads are cleared and the harshest my tires will see is grass, crush and run, gravel or pavement. But the difference in handling and directional stability with large wheel, low profile tires is dramatic and worth every penny on this '19s wider, higher, greater turning radius boat. Even in 2WD with the low profile 22s I can now navigate the '19 on same teacups and hairpins at a higher speed without the rear slides I'd get on the '16 Z71 at lower speeds in Auto. More fun to drive on the low profile 22s which is all I give a crap about. If I ever feel a need to go playing in the mud or go rock crawling I'll rent a Jeep with full coverage and knock the crap out of it.
Agree. Actually, my truck IS awesome, no crazy or loud noises, paint or interior issues, running perfect and still does everything it did on the first day out.... And same for the '18 Traverse and '18 Malibu......and '16 Silverado before that! Sure if I wanted, could nit pick about some nonsense, bring it to a dealer and possibly have him fiddle around and end up with a solution greater than the original problem.......but why? always starts, never stalls, shifts through all the gears, smooth with plenty of pep and excellent handling about all you can expect from a piece of machinery with thousands of parts.
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