carkhz316

Mine will achieve this as well. I'm in the midwest (Minnesota) and when its a high dewpoint in the winter combined with fluctuating cold temps and some short trips in and around town, it always does this on any of my vehicles. Theres going to be some differences in how the cans fill up that might not seem normal to you.

I remember being a kid 30 some years ago and having 300+ hp was supercar territory and mostly unheard of in anything without forced induction.

Add me to the one of 3 people who are not content with the Bilsteins. I know this is the half ton forum, but I added them to my 2500 recently, and they're way too stiff for my liking. The Ranchos were just fine overall (I feel like I'm going to be hung for saying that). The Bilsteins are a little bit "tighter" when towing and hauling, which I can appreciate, but the reality is I'm only towing/ hauling about 20% of the time. I'm not really old either. I'm 37. active and in good shape without back problems.

They're active aero shutters and are purely for fuel economy. They close at highway speeds or when additional airflow and cooling isn't required. They are present on trucks without the snow plow prep package, and omitted from those with the option.

Thats basically why I recommended the GM ones since they're pre-programmed and make it much easier for the end user to add them to their vehicle since they just have to be physically installed, then learned with a cheapo tool. This is opposed to a shop stocking programmable ones that cost more so that they can be used in a variety of vehicles. But yeah, I agree with the difficulty and complications implemented by GM to just be annoying or be a cash grab, such as how one could learn the keyless remotes and tpms without tools on 2010 and older model years, then they tweaked the software to force a scan tool sequence......just because. Oh, and requiring two working keys/ smart fobs for 2018+ vehicles to self-learn a new key/ fob as opposed to requiring only one. Dumb.

Good grief, I literally said a cheap relearn tool wouldn't work and you'd have to have a scan tool or dedicated TPMS scan tool (that are usually a few hundred dollars minimum). I suggested OP purchase a GM/ AC Delco sensor for reliability, and gave a simple example of a price point. We don't even know what exactly OP drives and the p/n's (and consequently the prices) vary wildly for the model years, even if most of them are interchangeable. Also, the price went up a small bit on mine, and these are just an example https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10538892&cc=3446530&pt=12036&jsn=1809 But still, add the 5% discount and you're at $40 each. Seriously, I'm trying to help OP and you're arguing with me. WTF

It would depend on how much pressure was remaining in the accumulator. Mine does it nearly every time, though some times its less apparent. No braking issues in my currrent truck or any other I've had. That said, if its violent, then something may be wrong, but a little bump is normal.

So if you don't have a scan tool with TPMS programming capability (not the cheap relearn tool) then you'd have to shell out for that as well hence why I recommended a GM or equivalent sensor. Yeah, if you have a buddy or are close with your tire shop, they might do it for you. Also one should shop around for sensors. I purchased a set of new GM for my '21 for about $30 each from another GM parts site.

This is what i do: Buy the GM sensors, go to your local mom and pop trusted tire shop/ repair center. Ask them to install them for you and have them learned to the truck (or buy the $20 tool and learn them to the truck yourself). Now you're good to go for 8-10 years. As far as disabling it, no, theres no feasible way. I've searched high and low, and previous to the 2008 model year mandate, one would still have to program a new BCM with a VIN that didn't have TPMS system. Modern GM vehicles, forget it.

Y'all might not have ever noticed this is hydroboost setups, but if you hold the break pedal when the engine starts, it always "kicks" like that because the power steering system is boosting the pressure suddenly for the braking assist. This is normal, while some vehicles its more apparent than others. You don't notice it with the key start, because well you don't need to hold the pedal to start. If you hold the brake pedal only long enough for the start sequence to begin (basically push the button and let go) you'll never notice the pedal kick back.

Look, I know I sounded snarky but your truck will be fine. I didn't realize your posts were likely a double post. Your other thread has largely garnered the same sentiments I share in that while it may be a flub or oversight by the dealer, that at the end of the day, its a trivial issue regarding your oil changes.

Yeah, its kinda weird. The box connector is wired in parallel to the bumper plug. Its just a jumper that plugs inline. I'd suspect one end or the either isn't plugged in all the way, or a broken ground connection. Theres nothing more to the circuit.

Man, you made two posts about this already? Sheesh, your truck will be just fine. Just be an adult and tell them that while you understand they may have been out of GM filters at your last oil change, you would prefer them to use the GM filter; please and thank you. Since the services are all on record at the dealer for this, if anything were to ever happen it would be on them. Stop worrying about it.

Yes, this is an important. I would suspect wiring concerns with a shorted temp sensor circuit causing this condition. Do you have the 8.1/ Allison combo or the 4L80?

You're likely missing control for the starting circuit. The ignition/ starting control circuit relies on a starter request signal sent to the PCM from the ignition switch to engage the starter relay. Then, if conditions are met, the PCM grounds the starter relay to engage the starter. This incorrect condition could be a few things, including neutral safety switch issues, bad wiring, bad relay, or bad PCM.

I do like the color scheme, but this is all I can think of these days.

This is correct. I part time on Saturdays for the local Auto Value parts store. Parts Master is their house brand for a variety of items, namely fluids and filters. The filters are made by Wix are basically an economy tier of Wix. Wix, in turn, is owned by Mann Hummel, which makes practically every filter you've ever heard of. The Parts Master oil is literally Valvoline in a different bottle. Both are bottled and produced by Ashland Oil company. Anyone freaking out about running either the filter or oil on their vehicle is foolish. The only thing I'd be upset about is if one requested and/or paid for a specific filter and oil, but instead received something else.

Worthless then. Good grief. I hope your buddy gets its all resolved in the end.

Lol, no, unless you want to risk burning yourself. I don't care if you let it idle to operating temp. It should still be done when cold. Additionally, adding relatively cold/ ambient temp coolant to already hot coolant isn't good either. Doozy, if you're losing that much coolant and the passenger side is wet (of the engine bay, I'm assuming) then the only other item on that side is the heater hoses. The plastic quick connects are prone to leaking with age, so I would check or maybe even plan on replacing those.

It'll be fine. Its just a revised part number. Same fluid otherwise. And the age isn't going to be of any concern.

In the right side instrument panel fuse box, check fuse F34DR. Its specifically for the CHMSL cargo light. There is also a CARGO LAMP relay in that same fuse box that could be bad. The other cargo lights (bed and mirrors) are directly controlled by the BCM, hence why they could be working but not one on top of the cab.

The cell phone thing is an urban legend, but everything else you mention is on point.

Lol, living in Minnesota my whole life, nobody (including myself) shuts their vehicle off while fueling in the winter.

Anyone else having a stroke trying to read this?

Regardless if you have a keyed ignition, or push button start, if you have only ONE working key/ fob then you need a subscription/ access to Techline Connect OR take it the dealer or shop (capable of dealer-level programming) to program a new key/ fob to the truck. It takes about 20 minutes and involves a few prompts and button pushes if you're doing it yourself. I had to do this on my '21 since I bought it CPO and it only came with one push button start fob. If you have TWO working keys/ fobs already, then you can easily add a third by just doing the quick ignition cycling procedure.