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About Kyleorsini

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  1. I’ve got a graco 4ever does rear and forward and booster so most likely the same massive size as yours, and a double cab, I tried in the middle but. Couldn’t get what I felt was it secured down enough therefore it’s on the passenger side using the uas latch or whatever. If you want a picture of the fitment lemme know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Check all your wiring again, I’d bet on a ground issue somewhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’ve had my putco blade for a couple years now, first one delivered came damaged, quick email and new one sent, installed, 6-12 months later (guesstimating on timeline) only certain light functions worked, quick email netted a response of cut the light bar wiring close to the bar and send a picture, did that and they sent me A new one no questions asked. I’m up in ****** winter weather prairie Canada And it’s been great, iirc it has a 2 or 3 year warranty but don’t quote me on that, and if I’m right on that it shows a lot of the company standing behind a electrical light product for a vehicle most things like that are a 1year so while the price is a bit more it’s definitely a nicer looking products. I will add that the warranty replacement for the failed second one has a different computer box on it and it looked a bit more stout in terms of keeping all the road muck outta it so clearly they have had a revision or so on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. That’s the oem bass roll off to prevent damage. Audiocontrol epicentre should work I believe if you just have add on subs , however if you plan on doing a full audio upgrade be prepared to get a pac amp pro or nav tv piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I got some tyger automotive bolt on style ones from amazon. They were the cheapest option for me in Canada. I would have preferred the non bolt on clean style as I don’t want flares aswell. But paints taking a beating from rocks. There may be a offering from tyger in the states for a better price if that’s where your located Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Awesome thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Can’t remember from when I installed the 5100 but I want to lower the front shock to the bottom ring for stock ride height so I need to take the spring off for that? Wanting to do that tomorow but need to know if I gotta get a spring compressor first Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. @techsan15 are those wheels -24 offset? can you snap a pic at full lock . I've got 295-55 with 20x10 -19 wheels and I've posted a thread about going a bit higher to fix rubbing issues I have with Bilstein 5100 at heighest setting. think this kit and some new ucas might be just enough after seeing your truck
  9. For daily driving how bad is front strut spacers and rear blocks. Obviously new leaf packs/add a leaf and proper length struts are better but I don’t take the truck off-road and I have 10 ply tires so my ride isn’t exactly great Would the zone 1.5” body lift work for what I need in the bit more tire clearance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Looks good, basically same setup as me for wheels and tires. Thinking I might go with the 4” ready lift sst kit. Really want the zone 4.5 but requires welding . I can install the lift myself just no welding experience or welder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I don’t wanna spend too much. Or I’d have done a 6”bds with full piggyback coilover set up instead of skimping on tire size and getting the Bilsteins Maybe 2 grand tops cdn so 1500ish usd Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. posted in the suspension thread but didnt get any help. currently running 20x10 -19 wheels with 295/55 ridge grappler tires and billstein 5100 shocks on top setting. totally happy with everything for the past year and a half however tired of the shit thrown up the truck and when i installed everything i had to remove the front gatorback mudflaps due to rubbing. after trimming i only rub full lock reverse and sometimes going up on driveways. so ive picked up fender flares and would like to get some mud flaps back on that said i think i need a bit more clearance for the front i would really like to be able to keep my existing 5100 shocks if thats possible shouldnt need much more height in the front but not sure. options im looking at are some 2.5-3" lift pucks, (aware ill need new upper control arms) 3.5-4" lift kits from various brands
  13. Some solid e rated tires helps towing stability too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I’ve got a double cab with a jayco white hawk 29bh and blue ox wd hitch. 5.3 tows the trailer fine, I know it’s there but there is enough power, haven’t scaled but I know I’m close on weights but a HD truck isn’t in the cards just yet. Buddy has the same truck in a crew and another brand travel trailer couple feet shorter and about the same weight and has gone through the prairies , some grades in British Columbia and the north west USA with 3 kids a wife in the truck he’s close on weights too but made out fine. You ain’t winning any races but the 5.3 is decently capable Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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