About to pick up a new travel trailer next week. It’s well below all maximum load limits of my 5.3 CC with Max Tow, so not worried about that. Called up a couple of buddies that tow travel trailers often and got conflicting advice regarding the Trailer Sway Control system. One friend swears that a sway control hitch is nice to have, but overkill because the truck’s electronic TSC is quicker to react to sway than the mechanical system, but if I do install a sway hitch be sure to deactivate the TSC as they will work against each other. Friend #2 insists a sway hitch is necessary as it will prevent sway from happening in the first place, but leave TSC turned on as a backup. I’ve searched all over and found opinions supporting both options. Neither friend has ever had a problem operating their own ways, so hard to say who’s right. What say everyone here?
17D1367AMHPV for the pads. 18A1705PV for the rotors.
My front stock rotors were warped at 50k miles. Went with AC Delco police/interceptor rotors as my replacement. Pros: very grippy, zero fade when braking with a heavy trailer. Cons: LOTS of dust, slightly noisier. I had heard they throw more dust, but holy crap... I tried keeping the wheels clean for a while but quickly discovered it was pointless. Within 500 miles of cleaning they are filthy again.
As this is posted in the 14-19 K2 forum, I don’t have a GMT800, but thanks for looking out.
Just did all three of mine recently. Went with Supertech full synthetic 75w-90 front and rear for the differentials. I realize that it’s not what the manual calls for in the rear, but it’s my opinion that the -85 it calls for is more a consideration of fuel economy than longevity and protection. Also, the Supertech does have some friction modifier, but not enough to affect locker operation as far as I can tell. Definitely don’t add additional friction modifier. The fluid pump I had on hand was garbage, so I ended up using a long clear plastic tube attached to the bottle’s cap and squeezed it in. Duct tape the end of the tube into the filler hole to avoid it falling out and making a smelly mess on your garage floor. The transfer case was pretty straight forward. Used Supertech Dexron VI. Was pretty shocked at the amount of metal shavings and fuzz on the magnetic plug. I hear that’s typical though. Plan on changing all three fluids every 45k miles as per the severe service schedule. Not knocking Amsoil, but at this short interval, it would be expensive overkill in my humble opinion.
Nice find, and thanks for sharing. Was thinking about changing out the fluid again even though I’ve already had it changed to the new formula. Transmission hasn’t been acting right lately and am wondering if another fluid change might help.
8-Speed transmission has been the achilles of an otherwise great truck for me at 50k miles. Started with hard 2-1 downshifts, which reprogramming fixed. Then it was the torque converter shudder, which took them forever to figure out was being caused by water-loving fluid, but in the meantime was having flushes done every 10k miles as a bandaid. Lately the 1-2 up shift has been randomly hard, and the deceleration downshifts have become more noticeable and a little clunky. Will be pleasantly surprised if it makes it to 100k without needing a rebuild or replacement.
I’m in the same predicament with my rotors and like you mine started going at 45k. Went with the Delco police rotors and pads as well. Still waiting on the last rotor to come in (thanks to the GM strike) but excited to see how well they perform. What surprises me is how the factory rotors were shot so quickly. I’m not an aggressive driver and don’t tow or haul often. Not used to needing replacements so soon. Hope to get at least 100k from this set.
Thanks dad! Please give me more priceless life lessons as you obviously know everything. As I mentioned they’ve been checked...twice actually. Back when I started driving and people actually took responsibility for their own plight instead of blaming others, I was taught that if someone’s lights are blinding you, pick a point on the side of the road and focus on it to alleviate the problem...and don’t flash someone to correct them.
Anytime I drive at night I typically keep my fingers on the high beam toggle due to being flashed so often. Gotta hit them back on a second’s notice. The LED’s are bright as hell. And yes...I’ve checked the aim and they are not too high. I’m not going to aim them down below spec and degrade my visibility just because other people’s eyes are sensitive.
This has got to be the dumbest post I’ve read in awhile (and there are plenty to be found). Perhaps you should had added to your unfounded list of assumptions that no engine has ever left the factory with a defect that caused premature failure in the history of car manufacture, or that no modern engine is capable of making it past 5000 miles of service between oil changes without imploding despite 7500 miles or more being the standard in pretty much every vehicle made in the last 10 years and everywhere else in the world before that. Keep assuming and showing everyone how dumb you sound.
Had mine replaced with new style pump. Unfortunately it still makes the same tick occasionally, though not quite as frequently.
I’ve heard the same story from others many times about their OLM hitting 0% right at 7500 miles, but oddly mine typically hits 7800, and on one interval hit 8000. Thought it was a fluke the first time. As I write this it occurs to me that my odometer may not be accurate.
https://blog.amsoil.com/why-does-motor-oil-turn-black/ Oil color is not an indicator of how well it’s doing it’s job. Seems to be engine and oil specific how quickly it changes color. GDI engines are also known to produce more soot particles which darken oil. Case in point: my old 4.0L Wrangler engine’s oil would turn extremely black after less than 2000 miles; never had any engine issues after 100k miles. My Toyota 3.5L engine’s oil after 7500 miles still a dark brown color; 125k miles no issues.
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