Marv, your Truck/sound system is looking great! Nice vid on how to remove the OEM stereo, although I don't have that kind of patients when removing trim pieces..LOL! You make some nice sound boxes, good skill bro!
Now this may be the difference between a tune and a sensor. I think with a sensor I would be able to run 100% E85 if I wanted to...just need to confirm if I would be able to do 93 also, which I can't see why not, but better to verify first. I could use an additional 25 ponies.
Sorry to inform you, but your hypothetical analysis is incorrect. My truck is tuned to run a 50/50 mix, and if I choose to, I can run 100% 93oct and not have any problems...I just can't run 100% E85. I run 93 only during the cold winter months without a problem, so no biggie other than loss of performance if there's no E85 available. This is factual and true data.
LOL! They don't do Fords...to each his own I guess...but that's what I did and I have no problems and great acceleration/pull. Of course I also had them tune my tranny which helps with staying in the right gear longer.
You're in CA, so you should give them a call and see what they can do for you...you probably won't have to wait as long since they're located in CA as well. I had to wait until they did a tune here in TX, but once the initial was done, all other tunes are done via email....nice!
That's the beauty of having a BBP tune with AutoCal. You can have tunes made for any mods you make to your truck. I.e. if I add headers, I can get a tune for that and if later I decided I want to install a cam, I can get a tune for that. I'm sure there are other handheld tuners that can be used, but I prefer BBP as they have great customer service and I think are more flexible with what they can do for me as far as tuning goes.
Yes and no. Non-Flex Fuel truck, and all I've done is have a tune made for me by BBP to run a 50/50 mixture. I'm thinking of getting larger injectors, but not sure if I'll see an improvement that will justify the $$$ for larger injectors.
I know this thread is 2yrs old, but I was searching E85 conversions to see what others have done. I was just thinking of changing my fuel injectors to 750's and have BBP send me a tune for it, and was looking to see if anyone else has done this. I guess as of 2yrs ago, no one has...LOL! I currently run a 50/50 E85/93oct and have no issues other than a quicker response and pick up. I have been running this mixture for over a year now and had it tuned with BBP to run the 50/50 mixture, I haven't done anything else as far as fuel management goes. Same fuel lines/pump and no sensor. My truck is a '16 RCSB and is NOT a factory Flex Fuel truck, so it's not like it can't be done, but a tune is a definite at minimum like what I did in order to make it work. I hope this helps...
I broke both tabs you have in the first pic, I used a 2 mixture epoxy to mend it back together. Your second pic I do not recognize the part, but I assume you could use epoxy or try that Flex Glue...the commercial on Flex Glue looks good, I may need to pick up a tube and break something to try it out...LOL! I used the epoxy on our coffee maker' cradle, which holds the coffee filter basket. So far it's been holding up even with the heat...it's been about 4 months now.
Update: The weather is great right now...cloudy, but no rain and not too hot. So I decided to attack the rattling sound behind the drivers seat, which seems to be the rear speaker. Here are the steps I took for anyone having to do the same. Adjust driver's seat all the way forward and tilt all the way forward. Remove positive battery cable (you will be working around an airbag) for safety reasons. Pop out the Airbag tab by the top seat belt anchor. You don't have to pull it off, it is anchored, but not very solid. However, easy to replace should you pull it off entirely. Using a flashlight, locate the small 7mm screw on the pillar (should be a straight shot from the airbag tap hole) and remove the screw. If you don't have a magnetized socket, you might want to place a small piece of reversed rolled up duct tape into the socket to secure the screw once it is removed...or you can hunt for it at the bottom when it falls. I used a piece of blue soft adhesive. (this is what you would use to hold up the plastic sheeting behind your door panel after repairing a window actuator, speaker etc.) Lift up the car seat anchor (it just pulls up and off) pull back the panel under the rear windshield...gently, then pull back the panel on the pillar, you may need to work the seat belt height adjustment lever a little...not very difficult you will see as the panel is moved back. Once the panel is pulled back from the pillar you will see the speaker, and at this point you can either R/R the speaker or just remove altogether. If you need more working space, then you'll need to do as Marv mentioned, and remove the paneling along the rocker as well...just be gentle. Replace everything in reverse, reconnect the battery and drive your truck to calibrate the compass if you have one. Well I hope this helps anyone that may need to access the rear speaker or seat belt height adjuster. This took me around 30 minutes to complete....and while you're replacing your battery cable, check your oil if you haven't in a while. Aloha, Woody
I don't mind the rear speakers as long as it's not over-bearing. As for the weather (rain) I think it just waits for me to wash my truck...and as you guys know washing a truck is not the same as washing a car. Rain and birds love my truck!
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 98 Members, 2 Anonymous, 445 Guests (See full list)
- Sierra Sik
- Dock Rocker
- Rick -65
- Turd Ferguson