Epsilon Plus

This is what I have so far. I'm gearing up for a full ZR2 conversion thread where we can put all the info in one spot.

Doesn't look fun. Although using an aftermarket spacer type would probably be easier, I'm all about the factory way of the ZR2 style. Also, I got this: " This order is on hold awaiting your response. Part number 85144996 is currently on back order from GM and it has been removed from your order. GM does not have an ETA for the part to be released off back-order. Part number 85144997 is currently on back order from GM and it has been removed from your order. GM does not have an ETA for the part to be released off back-order."

Thanks to Joe & newdude. Just ordered the whole kit and cabuttle for $1,278.01 shipped from GM Parts Direct. The knuckles were added to cart and in processing, so we'll see if it goes through or they kick it back, I'll update. Had to split up the order though. Once I went over a certain item threshold (9,10) the shipping went from 120 to like 480 as if it's weight based or something I dunno. Still spent like $196 in shipping though so that hurts. Also hurts to spend more on a (likely) plastic diff drop bracket than a UCA lol. I even bought the jounce spacers for more than they should cost because I'm after a full factory style 2" lift. Only thing I didn't get is the DSSVs. Maybe one day when I'm crazy enough to spend $2,000 on shocks but I'd like to see some reliability or know they can be rebuilt before spending King Remote money. Just got a 3 month old leaking Bilstein 5100 warrantied and I'd hate to pay $500 for a DSSV for it to spring a leak no warranty. If I can add all the skids I'll be doing that too so stay tuned for a full ZR2 suspension swap thread when I get to all of this one day. Right now I've still got some tread to burn on the stock tires before the GM Alaskan 18s and 35x11.50s go on. I'll wait to put all this ZR2 stuff on at that time. Cheers.

newdude posted that the jounce is a difference up above. Could just be on the Bison though. Also, the gas tank skid could be a Bison item as well. The AEV Bisons are known for primarily being bumpers and skids on top of a ZR2. You'd think if stuff was Bison related the fitment notes would have an extra RPO for Bison though. That site doesn't list everything though. Even when I went to add my 2022 LED headlight P/Ns to my P/N spreadsheet, the site only had one driver LED listed. Not even the halogens were on there. As far as a front skid, the sales pitch mentions an aluminum front skid and it's on the parts site as ZRX, but isn't the stock Z71 one already metal? I'll have to go tap on mine. [EDIT: The leading little skid is plastic but the trailing big skid is metal. Don't know if a 2024 ZR2 all metal front skid would work on a 20-23 since they changed the front around and I think that little plastic skid ties up to the bumper area.] Another side note. When I added the knuckles at a dealer GM parts site my shipping went from $170 to $480. They are also listed as out of stock on the main parts.gm site, so something may be up with them currently. If I order from parts.gm and pick up at local dealer free it's about $60 more than online but I'm tempted to go the official route so I can deal with issues locally.

Any clue on the U-bolts for the rear? I found the lift blocks at P/N: 85565250 . However, the parts.gm site lists two different U-bolt sizes. I think one is for 2500 one for 3500. Thing is under the fitment notes they both say they are for regular and Z71. Part number 11610960 is M18x2.5x265 and notes: "THIS PART FITS VEHICLES WITH APPLICATIONS OUTLINED BELOW: Except ENHANCED TOWING PERF PKG(NHT) CHAS PKG(Z85),'OFF ROAD' CHAS PKG(Z71) M18X2.5X265" Part number 11610959 are M18x2.5x315 and notes: "THIS PART FITS VEHICLES WITH APPLICATIONS OUTLINED BELOW: ENHANCED TOWING PERF PKG(NHT),'OFF ROAD' CHAS PKG(Z71),CHAS PKG(Z85) M18X2.5X315 OR CHASSIS PKG(ZRX) M18X2.5X315 Am I to assume that the ZR2 is using standard 3500 HD bolts and they fit both regular (Z85), Z71, AND ZR2? When I put the part numbers into other (dealer) parts websites it says does not fit a 2024 2500 ZR2. Thanks. Unrelated note, still scrounging for the jounce bumper and mount P/Ns. Trying to get a complete list together even though I probably wont use those (don't jump a trail whale!)

Looks like it's there, but might need some holes drilled. ZR2: My 22 gas Z71 for comparison:

Man, every time I search with a ZR2 trim in most parts sites it comes up empty. This is a boon to have the P/Ns you've listed. I'm going to start collecting too. I've got Bilstein 5100s on right now so I should be good with the current shock length (advertised 0-2" of lift). Thanks again.

Nice to see some ZR2 part numbers starting to drop. All the traditional parts sites still list nothing for 24 ZR2s. Once they're all out, it's going to be the best way to get a 1.5-2" lift (and most expensive way lol).

PML, who has a nice transmission pan and rear diff cover with magnetic drain plug is looking into making a front diff cover for our trucks. Says on the page the design is complete, their just looking for interest. You can do so by joining the mailing list I guess. Let's get this cover made. I don't know of any other front diff cover with drain plug for our trucks (post below if you do). Even so, it would be nice to have all covers from one source for OCD purposes. Cheers. https://yourcovers.com/pml-gm-front-differential-cover-for-2500-and-3500-hd-trucks.html

One of the reasons I'll be buying the Pulsar LT when I change sizes is it's reported ability to change the alarm point. I'm currently getting texts, emails, and truck yelling at me about one of them at 64. I would probably run about 50-55 on the Nittos when I get them. I haul mostly sail boat fuel and don't need to be aired up so ridiculously all the time.

GM HDs going back to the 6.0s do this. I am convinced it's in the tuning. It should not dump into numerically high 1st gear unloaded until at rest or commanded throttle is >30% in my opinion. It should act like it currently does only in Tow/Haul. Likely, some jackass wrecked it towing out of tow/haul mode and sued GM so they force a geared deceleration shift plan into the tune instead of acting like any other automatic transmission vehicle since 1996 (doing what I said in third sentence). It will not be a mechanical fix. Sounds like they threw parts at it the first time. If you are truly tired of it enough to spend money, find someone that knows HP Tuners and spend the coin to get into the tune. That's where you'll find solace.

HD no question for a business purpose or even a serious homesteader. Payload, towing, sheer component size/strength, engine reliability (no DFM)...etc. GMs gas HDs are legendary for reliability. I've seen countless examples over 200,000 miles and still working hard. They are specifically designed for the fleet customer and longevity.

Stock is the best. Flow is more than adequate. Intake air temperatures are ideal as it draws from outside. The only thing a "CAI" does on this truck is give intake noise, raise IATs lowering performance, or worsen filtration. Sorry, but this isn't an LS1 Camaro and it's not 1998 anymore. Most all modern V8 vehicles are set up stock with plenty of breathing pipe size, and an enclosed filter box that draws from outside.

Rebuild the 5.3 with a full AFM delete and tune would be cheaper/easier. Add a decent enough cam and exhaust and you could close the HP gap a bit too.

Long story short, I bought a set of B5100 shocks from an Amazon retailer. One of them started leaking not soon after (they did come all new). Bilstein page says So, I contact the distributor through the only means I could find (phone, red flag no email). They said just contact Bilstein and take it up with them. I send Bilstein an invoice and picture and a story and the guy just quotes the above warranty spiel and says take it up with the distributor. I respond twice that I did and I'm basically jumping to step 2 since they aren't handling it and am now being ghosted. EDIT: Ended up contacting the vendor through the Amazon chat thing. After paying half as much as a new shock there and back, they facilitated the warranty through the still non-respondent Bilstein. Glad it's over now, but this surely would have been easier dealing with Summit Racing vs Joe Bob's Amazon Parts Emporium. Cheers.

I was going to get the stock ones, fab them in, and run them off my AUX switches. If I ever get around to it I'll make a write up. Truck looks stupid with the blank spots there. Especially when I see poverty wagon WT single cab utility trucks running around with them there.

That drain plug is actually a fluid level check plug for the cockamamie way they want you to check fluid level without a stick. PML has custom stock height (5/8 deeper) and deep pans for our trucks with a proper magnetic drain plug. https://yourcovers.com/pml-gm-6l90-6l90e-deep-transmission-pan.html I don't think the extra pan depth would affect fluid level reading as the extra capacity is physically lower than where the stock low point would be. Does that make sense? Be nice if they made a 2019 pan without the extra level check hole of the 20+ (leak point).

Lets get some part numbers out there!

Arlington (Tahoe/Suburban) is the next threat and could make GM squeal. That is, if they care. GM could be secretly loving this. Limited quantity and huge demand has delivered them record average transaction prices and profits. 2024 single cab gas HD 4x4 LTs are going for $58k now. Clown world.

There is not now, and will never be a "I thought they fixed this X year" with DEF/DPF and the fragility that is the modern emissions laden diesel of any brand. Modern diesels are a sad irony. The most powerful they've ever been. The most unreliable and untrustworthy they've ever been. Shame.

Greetings. The long and short of what I'm trying to do is lower the TPMS threshold in the truck we all hate so the warning doesn't come on at 62psi or whatever. I have a cursory understanding of the GM MDI2 (and cheap clones) and using an ACDelco TDS subscription. However, everything I can find on the internet just shows people flashing complete write OE updates on to modules. There is some talk on forums of people having limited success having the dealer edit TPMS values, which tells me they must be using this software to do so. Before I unload a bunch of money I'm wondering if anyone has had any success with editing values, not just flashing OE updates. I have yet to see any screenshots of anyone acutally playing with TPMS values other than with an uber-expensive Snap-on ModisUltra. Bonus points if this MDI/TDS route can change tire size value too which would eliminate the need to buy a $250 inline "programmer" for larger tires. Thanks!

Mechanically it bolts up and would spin. Electronically it would be a nightmare. 24s run on a completely different programming architecture (Global B). The ECM, TCM and every other *CM of a 20-23 would not be having it.

Then you heard it here first. I gave up a 2020 Cummins for my 22 gas Chevy. I don't care if the Cummins could pull 80,000lbs and have 4,000tq. Modern diesels are have deal breaking fragility for those that don't want to get stuck living in their 5th wheel on the side of the road in BFE while Barney the local tech sources an ultra rare DEF sensor for a tank full of DEF that wasn't even bad in the first place.

M14x1.5 1.77" in length Good ones here: https://www.coyoteaccessories.com/lugs/lug-nuts/53k848l

Greetings. I'm going from stock 17" Z-71 wheels with short nuts and a plastic cap to OEM Alaskan Edition 18" wheels with the longer exposed lug nuts. I tried to order the GM Accessory locking nuts twice but both orders were cancelled with the last one telling me they are discontinued. Next on the list is the standard non-locking chromes P/N 85124433 . GM is very proud of these at about ~$200 shipped from various sites. Are there any safe alternatives that mimic the size of these? Does anyone know the specs on those are other factory long lug exposed nuts that GM uses? I've seen some eBay sets for $43-ish but I don't feel safe trusting cheap junk holding the wheel on and taking 140 lb/ft. If the OEM nuts at $200 are the best and safest, I'm ok going that route, just wondering if I'm getting hosed and there is a better alternative. Cheers.