Epsilon Plus

Thanks mang. Did you use smoothing, percentage +/-, or trial and error to come up with your shift and pressure variances? I like the TCC theory and values you have in there already. Wouldn't the VCM control reset do the same for the trans re-learn? Cheers.

Just got a picture of it to add here for future thread searchers like me. It's right next to the passenger side lower hose. Cheers.

Very mild so far. Just turning stuff off. The fans can be tricky at first, but I think I understand from my LS2 days. "State 1 ECT gets to X fan turns to stage 1 (whatever you have it at), ECT gets to X then this happens". I've modified the axis as I don't like 192 or 194 whatever it is being the lowest so I wonder if that's taken hold. I don't remember having the capability to do that in my LS days. Haven't done any logging yet, just plugged the tune in. It's weird coming from LS stuff to this and trying to learn where the limits might be. I've seen on this forum "oh the 6L80E will die if you take out TM". In the muscle car area, the 6L80E is a beast. I have to remind myself that I'm dealing with a 5500lb+ portly piece of metal with a transfer case and a fragile front drive train. A lot different than a 3900lb 5th Gen Camaro. Silverado 2.0.hpt

Most of the tuning threads on this forum are either about canned tunes, send out/get back ECM canned tunes, or early (2014-2018) threads where posters were freaking out about warranty this and warranty that. Well, a lot of our warranties are up so...... I've been screwing around with HP Tuners (left over from my hotrod days). So far have disabled AFM, dialed the speedo in closer to my current tire height, and right now I'm playing with fan logic for my 174F thermo install tomorrow. My goal is increased towing performance (mostly by keeping the temps down). Have a 7700lb max travel trailer OTW and don't feel like rocking 240F temps up grades. Lump me in with the crowd that is high temperature averse and believes the stock inferno is purely CAFE related. I have no desire to make the truck "faster" or anything WOT related really. After playing with LS1s, LS2s and LS3s the thought of using a 5500lb 4x4 crew cab to smash around town like a squirrel seems akin to using a fork for a screw driver. Anyone else here play around in there? Gen V is definitely more complicated than the Gen III/IV stuff I've been playing with before. No surprise. Anything HP Tuners related has always been a big shrouded mystery with ghost and barely answered posts on their home forum and guys in the know desperately clinging to their knowledge so they don't lost their side gig gravy train of tuning local cars. I think next up if the fans agree with me I'll work on part throttle response and maybe back down some torque management and see if that improves response. Again, I have no desire to snap the transfer case chain by slamming a WOT no TM 1>2 shift but some more pep in the throttle for the mild around town stuff would be nice. Cheers.

Look at the posts half way down on this thread. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/241614-silverado-6l80e-transmission-thermostat-delete/page/4/#comments

I would try MAF cleaner and look at your intake tract. Maybe a new air filter or clean out the measured air coming in the front. For some reason the truck is thinking the outgoing oxygen isn't high enough compared to what's coming in or what it *thinks* is coming in. Check clamp and intake manifold seals and make sure the truck isn't sucking in un-metered air. If all else fails and you want to keep the truck, there's always HP Tuners and it's magic "No Error Reported" wizardry. ?

Good thread to check for more info, especially on my debacle haha.

Ruh-oh. Well hopefully I put it in right. I took it for a long trip today. Was probably out 2+ hours and it all held together. All manner of gears and speeds up to 75. Half the trip the trans liked to sit around 178 (took a lot of parking lot waiting for the shopping wife to get there). By the end of the trip it had finally got to 190. Fans kicked on and it dropped to 186. This was non-stop after 2+ hours of idle to full freeway back to stop and go, to idle. Never even got to the 192 open point of the OEM thermostat. It was 113F out today too, so theres that. I'll be using my HP Tuners soon to adjust the fans down and add a lower coolant thermo to help (probably 174F). One thing to note is that orginally, I did not orient the plug in any particular fasion. You'll notice at has a sort of half moon knob on the top. This orients with passages in the plug. I put that plug in randomly. I wonder if the passages weren't lined up right, and the pressure built too high and shot everything out. When I put it back together, I made sure to align those passages in the now gutted plug with the in/out orifices in the block. Either way, I still don't trust it. I'll be looking to add a non thermostat coolant line block with -6 AN out to make my own lines with in the future.

Thanks for the replies. I ended up doing the tap/plug method. Lost about 5qts of ATF. Put it all back and ran it through it's paces fairly hard and all far it's staying together. Just praying that lame ass snap ring holding all that destruction back will hold in that tiny groove this time. Hoping it will hold until a better fix of putting the LSx Innovations block on there that has -6AN out. Then, I'll just run braided lines to a good external stacked plate cooler maybe even with a thermo switch fan. It's what I had on my 2006 GTO and that had a 4,500 stall and was tortured in the same 115+ ambient temps. Cheers.

So....... I screwed up. When I did the mod I must not have seated that PITA snap ring in the groove good enough. Held for a couple mile trip. On the return trip I heard it let go. Smoke on the way home as the trans pumped its fluid to the Y pipe. Didn't run like this long, was close to home, prob less than 1/8th mile. Anyway, I somehow managed to find the plunger, the thermo pill, and the snap ring (by grace of God) in the dark. However, I did not find the spring (big surprise). I put the plunger back in the housing and put the snap ring on (hopefully it stays in this time). The pill is out and obviously the spring is out as well. Any guesses on how the truck will operate like this? Not sure where I can find another spring like that nor even a damn trans thermo. I might have to buy that aftermarket doo-dad just to fix my F up. Any thoughts would be appriciated. Thanks.

Answered my own question. It will drop down enough. I just undid the black plastic clips holding the lines (the ones attached to the bellhousing bracket). I also used a pair of Irwin quick grips to help compress the assembly as I put the snap ring back in. Some small C-Clamps would probably work good here too.

For those that have done the flip like in the second video, is there enough room for the lines to hang down and do the flip process under the truck? I'd rather not go to the trouble of disconnecting the entire line system. Thanks.

5th Gen Camaro autos had L99 engines. 6.2L engine. Difference from LS3 was in the valvetrain. L99 had 400HP and VVT. LS3 42x no VVT, manual only. 04 GTO had a 4L60E 4-speed trans that used the pan from a 700R4. 05-06 GTO had a 4L65E with the same pan (although all factory "deep" volume compared to the 700R4 they were all based off of). I would check the pan depth and capacity volume before adding a 5th Gen Camaro pan to a Silverado. Don't know much about this mod, just an old LS hot-rodder correcting some info. The G8 with the 6.0 L76 had a 6L80E, perhaps thats what you meant (not GTO). The recent SS (just SS, the Commodore import) also had the 6L80E. These might all be options as well.

Both these help. Thanks.

Do the 5100s have a "0" setting? I'm still trying to wrap my head around if they are for trucks WITH a level or can level themselves, or do both in combination. I have a BDS 2" level that I am happy with. Truck sits perfect and drives fine. I have no interest at all in any extra added height, but I'm looking for some good shocks to tow with. The 4600s sound fine to me but they are for stock height apparently. That's fine for the rear, but again, I'm 2" higher up front. Does this imply that the 4600s would be too short and top out a ton with a 2" up front? Will the 5100s work in front for me without adding any more lift? Since I'm here, how do the shocks lift anyway? Valve the fluid up and put all the pressure on an internal spacer/solenoid that provides the lift? I suppose I could delete the BDS and just do 5100 but I'd imagine the shocks would last longer if they weren't artificially trying to support the weight of the front end up. Maybe I have it all wrong? Not looking to do any off-road. Just bought a max GVWR 7,000# travel trailer and looking for ideas to help keep it planted where it should be. Thanks for any tips/info.

Why aren't these frames electrodipped and painted? Isn't this 2018?

After the GM fix, it worked, then came back. Added a hose clamp, it worked, then came back. Added two more clamps (see picture a few posts up), tightened the first clamp, and it worked. So far so good this time with 900 miles on the latest fix. I think clamping down the GM piece and isolating both sides with additional clamps is the ticket. I'll report back if it starts up again.

Hose-clampa-palooza. I've got more clamps on here than a BDSM festival. Hopefully, the extras on the ends help the one holding the lateral clip that needed a few more cranks of the wrench. If this doesn't work, I'll mix up some quickcrete in a wheel barrow and form a slab. Or just put a small hammock there. If I'm going to slide around everywhere on every expansion joint, I might as well do it in style.

The 2.7 should be in future ZR2s. The diesel and it's sub 200hp and meh torque has been a disappointment from the beginning.

I don't doubt their thickness, but it's like a sliver of coverage with all that frame showing.

They look skimpy. It's like the sexy 2 piece bikini version while the GM metal shields are the conservative one-piece. Some may scoff at the GM aluminum shields, but I'd wager it would take a serious hit to fail them. Honestly, well made plastic is pretty rough too. You should see some of the stress plastic water service lines to your house can take when pulled with a backhoe underground. I think I'll skip the BDS/Zone plate and fab my own or modify like you did.

Does the factory splash shield work with any of the 4"+ lifts? I have the GM metal shields and I'd be sad to have to sell them. They are all the shield I'll need and that Zone shield looks thin and scrawny and out of place comparatively IMO.

It's not the money, I just preferred to level it out without jacking it up and without wearing things out. It seems lifts include provisions to address the LCAs and stuff too. Meh. At this point, I'm leaning more towards trading it in on a ZR2 rather than trying to make it something its not.

Any Superlift 3.5 users/info around that someone may have noticed? There are very few posts that turn up about it on Google or searching this site. Mostly, people just exclaim that it may be garbage like the RC 3.5, however, most of the RC 3.5 hate seems to be back when it was just a spacer kit. Seems RC responded and included UCAs and diff drop in a separate kit. Well, the Superlift 3.5 does the same giving UCAs and diff drop. Short of going full Zone 4.5, this seems like it should level and avoid balljoint/geometry issues but I can't be certain as I am still trying to learn what joints are hit the hardest by lifting and what CAN be done to correct it while still lifting. It's really a PITA trying to find a kit that just levels the damn truck out without eating up the fragile crap up front.

I had a few similar concerns. I'm so used to the size of my 1500, that I would be afraid to give up the V8, the interior room, and the hauling/towing capability to pay more for a midsize. The size is also the problem with the 1500 though. I am not interested in carrying $500/mo over a rock garden, but I would like to hit some decent trails. The long wheelbase, width, and weight of the 1500 worry me. I'm the guy who parks in the back of the parking lot to avoid a door ding. I don't like the idea of a giant white scratch on my blue paint from some branch I couldn't fit by. With the ZR2, I feel like I wouldn't care much what happened to it within reason, knowing out of the gate that it's a purpose built trail rig. BDS is close to announcing their lift kit fitting 35s and keeping the DSSV shocks/"ZR2-ness". It kicks ass on any trail as is and that would put it proverbially over the top. It could haul the kids, tow what I need it to, drive me to work, and also crawl up a rock pile. .....but its a midsize! I'm a man! I'm (almost) 40! Quandary...