I agree with his point, to a point. I believe common knowledge, and common sense is that any coating is only worth the preparation of the substrate its being applied to. The OP was asking about using it on the frame. I find it hard to believe an in-service frame could ever be prepped sufficiently enough to avoid failure of any bedliner (or paint) product. Too much factory installed undercoating, road grime, wires , fuel and brake lines etc. for any level of success in my opinion.
I second the "No" opinion above. You will get water behind it, and it will rot from the inside out. I did it in my younger days with a 91 Nissan pickup. You couldn't tell the metal was gone until you poked it and the only thing left was the bedliner material. I use Amsoil MP on the frame of my 2014. The OEM wax coating is garbage, and the dealership re-did it twice under the TSB and it failed twice.
I dropped the truck of at the dealership and explained what was happening. They are replacing the vacuum pump under warranty. Per the recall, if your VIN doesn't fall in the recall category, then they extend your warranty to 10 years/150,000 miles on the vacuum pump and the brake booster. SO, they don't want to recall all of the trucks, but will replace the parts IF you have the problem. Thankfully, I didn't have the problem while launching my boat or the truck would've been in the drink. While I understand the financial aspect of the selective recall, I don't understand it, in this instance given the nature of the failure. I guess you could always grab the gain on your brake controller and use the trailer brakes to stop the truck, right? Im sorry did you say surge brakes, oh too bad then, find something soft to run into.
Good info, I'm heading in for state inspection in the next week or two, I'll have them look at the wheel speed sensors. I'm going to try the vacuum test today after work. Thanks for the replies.
I have a 2014 Silverado Z71 CC and I'm having a sporadic ABS issue I need some insight on. Every once in a while, so far when moving slowly, I will hit the brakes and the ABS kicks on and won't stop the truck. If I let off the pedal and apply again it does the same thing. It seems like two drive cycles will clear the glitch but its un-nerving to say the least. The one time it happened while backing up with a trailer going down hill, not overloaded only about 4k total weight trailer and cargo. Makes you pucker a little when you can't stop a truck and trailer combo going backwards. Again, this has only happened at low speed but I'm starting to question how I would stop at higher speeds with or without a trailer? The most recent brake recall from GM didn't include my VIN but I'm starting to think it should have. So far all but one occurrence has happened on dry pavement in non-freezing Temps, so its not actually sliding.
I have bought and loved the BFG All Terrains since the 90's when the white letters said "BF Goodrich Radial All-Terrain" loved those(so many white letters it looked like a white wall), loved the KO's, little disappointed in the KO2's. I just wore out the KO2's I had on my 14 Silverado 1500 and got about 40k out of them, which is good for an AT in my opinion. They still had maybe 3K left on them but Im in the wrong season here in PA to push it with tread depth. The bad is how friggin' loud they got and how rough the ride got over the last 8k miles or so. I contribute that to the E load rating and the stiff carcass but holy crap did those girls sing from about 35 mph and up. At 50+mph it was terrible inside the cab. I contribute the ride to a lack of tread absorbing road shock as they wore down. I had never experienced that with any of the other generations of the BFG AT. I struggled with the decision, but threw on Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3 to replace the BFG's, good so far in snow (maybe 4") and rain but they've only been on a week. I can tell a difference in the ride quality and handling due to the B-Stone being almost 16# lighter per tire and not E load rated. Not really a fair comparison but just my opinion at this point. Running a 265 75 18 on a 2" (RC spacer with Cognito UCA's) level for what its worth.
After investigating further, I had a completely trashed upper ball joint on the passenger side. I can only assume that was causing a bind somewhere in the front end that was causing the creaking sound. When the wheel was up in the air with no load on it it was silent. I make it a point to shake down the front end every time I rotate the tires which was done about 500 miles ago. My plan was to order Cognito UCA's when i felt a bit of movement in the ball joints. I didn't anticipate it going from no noticeable movement to a Holy S*&$ level of movement that quickly. Either way, Cognito UCA's ordered and installed with no issue. Hats off to those guys, sometimes aftermarket parts can take some massaging but these UCA's went on flawlessly per the instructions ( I know, what are instructions?). Im back to a tight/ silent front end with better joint angles on my 2" level with the Cognito UCA's. For what its worth, I have a total of 58k miles on the truck currently, about 35k of those are on a 2" leveling (lower spacer) kit. That is with all stock Z71 components.
I have a 2014 SIlverado CC Z71 with about 58K miles, and recently developed a creaking in my steering. I believe I have pin pointed it to the passenger side on the steering rack. It appears to be coming from where the tie rod comes out of the rack. Any one else had this issue? I did a search on the forum and found a lot of popping and other threads from the rack and pinion but not his issue. Any help is appreciated! It creaks when turning both directions, no impact on the steering just annoying as hell, makes the truck sound like a POS. Thanks
Springfield 9mm XD Mod 2 in an Alien IWB holster( I love this holster). I carry this most all of the time when clothing allows and I dont print too bad. Ruger LCP 2 with a neoprene pocket holster, when I am wearing light stuff, ie. summer clothes or board shorts on the boat when concealment can be an issue. S&W 357 Mag with OWB holster when tooling around at my camp, I am more worried about the four legged variety up there. Or all 3 when Im feeling extra American...
i picked my truck up last night and all seems to be well. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) was P16F3-Internal Redundant Memory Performance. Apparently, when the ECM trips this code it can usually be fixed with a re-flash of the ECM. In my case, the dealership could get no response from the ECM when attempting a re-flash, diagnosis-bad ECM. I doesn't seem that this is a very common problem per the Service Manager, but he has seen it on other models (Cruze and Corvette). Now that I know the code and did very minimal research, it seems as though it can have different impacts and the Reduced Power Mode usually can be cleared by a drive cycle( shutting down the vehicle, removing key, opening door, closing door, restarting the vehicle). This will leave the check engine light on, but MAY allow a return to full power mode, which will at least get you to where you need to be without a tow. Unfortunately, if the ECM has an internal fault, like mine did, its a wrap. All of this was covered under warranty including the tow to the dealership. So besides a minor headache, it didn't cost me anything. Hopefully, no one else has this issue, but if you do this may shed a little light on it.
Apparently the ECM (Engine Control Module) took a dump. The dealership ordered one yesterday and it should be in today. Then they will need to install, flash and then I should be good to go. I will get more information from the service manager when I pick the truck up. I spoke with the service writer, which in my experience, their mechanical knowledge is limited with whatever is on the work order in front of them. I wish I could have scanned this at my house to see what codes it tripped, but i will get whatever info I can. Thanks for the insight. I had this issue with my wifes ride last year( 2010 Cadillac SRX). I chased it with my scanner for a while as the code trips the same for the accelerator pedal module and the throttle position sensor. Ended up being the Throttle Position Sensor which of course is non serviceable and integral with the throttle body, so i replaced the throttle body and have been fine since.
GM roadside assistance covered the tow to the dealership. I spoke to the service manager whom I’ve dealt with before. He says that the mileage and time frame on the 3/36 was close enough that he can work with GM on the repair. I’ll update when I hear from them in the next few days.
Hopefully you guys can help me out here a bit. I have a 2014 Silverado CCSB Z71 5.3 with 38000 miles on it. I was driving to work this morning and had the reduced engine power alert come up in my DIC along with the stabilitrak light. I pulled over, shut the truck off and re-started a few times with no success in clearing the codes with drive cycles. While driving, the transmission was banging gears pretty hard and the torque converter was clunking worse than "normal, by GM standards". I got to a good spot to park the truck and that is that for now. I am anticipating a tow to the dealership as I am about 20 miles away from it now for what will hopefully fall under the powertrain warranty as my bumper to bumper was up 1 months and 2k miles ago. Anyone have a similar problem with this or any insight as to what it may be. Im iffy on driving it home to scan it, as I dont want to compound any problems. I drove the truck Saturday night, probably 60 miles on the highway with no issues and it sat in the garage until this morning. Help me out, internets!
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