Epsilon Plus

I sent them pics of mine and warned them of the low clearance to the front skid and said I could take measurements if needed. Not sure about the 2015 thing either as on that link page they show pics of the correct front cover, part number and all 84756922. According to parts.gm (the official parts site), it's the correct cover for 2020-2024 T1 HDs. It might be the same cover for 2015 or they are wondering because that's the shop truck they have to measure and perhaps the part # hasn't changed in years.

Looks like the PR campaign worked. Before I deleted my Facebook I blasted it in those groups too. Got a PM response back on messenger saying the interest was pouring in. That was weeks ago. Now today I get an email and it looks like this project is a go. If you signed up to the list, check your email or if you haven't sign up at the link in the first post. If this goes to plan we'll have available a matching set of front diff/trans/rear diff covers with drain plugs for all T1 HDs regardless of Gas 6, 10 speed, or diesel. Cheers.

Circle D in Texas is well known in the go fast world. Ships anywhere. Can build a nice triple disc lockup under stock stall conditions for you and quadruple the converter durability over stock.

Anyone know the meat & potatoes of how the Pulsar LT inline is correcting speedo/TPMS? Seems to me you need to talk to the BCM for TPMS and the ECM for size. Right now the most expensive path to correcting speedo is MDI/GDS2 access to the BCM for TPMS and HP Tuners for the ECM. My real concern here is getting the speedo right for the odometer. I'm assuming if the speedo is off even by 1-2mph, the truck will be counting (or not counting) miles that aren't true messing with service intervals, resale...etc. The Pulsar LT reportedly will correct tire size and allow TPMS threshold adjustments for ~$450, but I'm aware of GMs TSB about being mad about them and how they can cause errors (probably because you have to access 900 modules to do it right). I'll be heading from stock Z-71 17x8s with 31s to Alaskan 18x8s with 35x11.5s. The only dealer way around this I can think of is if one had a 2024 they could use the ZR2 stock dealer calibration, but alas thats probably Global B stuff only and I have a 2022. I could argue with the dealer about giving me a stock cal for the 18s since they are an official GM accessory bought from the main site, but that's only 33s. EDIT: I just had a thought that since the Nittos I'm going with are 34.8" tall and the stock 20" option on these trucks is 34.1" so I guess I could use that factory cal? Long and short of it, any ideas on the best or most affordable way to go from 17s & 31s to 18s & 35s and getting the speedo/odo right on the money? Thanks.

Are you sure they are 18x8? They are running 12" wide tires on them (305/70). Discount Tire wouldn't mount anything over an 11.5" on a 8" wheel for liability so I'm sure GM wouldn't either. Probably more like an 18x9 or 18x8.5.

Yes. It's actually a Chamberlin unit. That fat piece around the center button swivels down and the unit can slide out for battery service or I suppose to remove for long periods outside on vacation where you don't want people breaking into the truck and then opening the garage. Was very easy to program through my MyQ app since I have a Chamberlin wifi opener but would be easy to program the traditional way as well (learn button/dip switches).

A few might already know of this valuable thread but for those that might stay in the HD section; many of the mods done of the T1 1500s also translate to our trucks. To that end the half-ton fellows had a (admittedly old) great thread going for those who want to change their plain manual dimming mirror to the auto-dimming varieties found in fancy trucks. The long and short of it is all T1 HD trucks from 2020-2023 have the auto-dimming mirror plug attached to the roof harness and glued to the headliner. By freeing this plug you can drop in a plug-and-play auto-dimming mirror. Personally, I used the GM official accessory frameless auto-dim/garage door opener mirror. My post on page 16 of this great thread has all the highlights quoted that will guide you through the mod: Cheers and thanks to the contributors of that thread.

I know this thread is old but plenty of people (like me) still doing this and searching for this stuff. Everything quoted above will get you through this mod easily. Thanks to all the contributors in the thread (and those I didn't quote too). The biggest tip I can verify is bonzmans. My wire was glued pretty good like many in here but I sprayed some rubbing alcohol on it (you can dab with cotton ball if no sprayer) and used the hair dryer front and back and it helped immensely in pushing on the connector with a very small flat blade and working it free. Without that method there is no doubt in my mind the connector would have been totally destroyed trying to free it from it's glue prison. I was able to get it out perfectly clean like the last quoted picture. I used the GM accessory auto-dim/garage door frameless combo shown a post up. Also, I did this on my 2022 2500 HD so those reading with an HD truck, your 2020-2023 will be eligible for this. Thanks again.

I sat on that thing today while doing my auto-dim mirror mod. I think a concrete block would have been softer. Lord help who has to sit on that or the equally stiff one in the rear.

I ordered one and it should be here today or Monday. I'll post pictures of it. Part number 84738651 It's the GM official accessory unit that is garage opener/auto dim. Update:

Tried ordering the knuckles again. 997 (passenger knuckle) just got kicked back as out of stock. I told them to proceed with 996 though so we'll see if that one goes through.

It's aluminum & sloped. You won't have problems with water. As far as mud, I supposed that depends on if you are backing up while bottomed out in muck.

If you'd like a factory 1.5" lift, join us over in crazy world at the ZR2 suspension threads. Not much of a lift for all the parts and how fun it's going to be to install, but guaranteed to be factory tested perfect for this platform on 35x12s.

Looking to do this to my 2022 HD. Anyone do it to a 22+ HD yet? Not sure if it's going to follow suit with not having the wire with the "refresh" pattern. HD's interiors didn't change to all the big screen stuff until 2024. EDIT: Mod done. HD T1s from 2020-2023 have the wire, although I didn't have the mirror post/wire cover that most have in here.

Now if we could only get those damn knuckles.

Chevy gave you a very expensive avenue to pursue the best intake. Be the first to convert to the diesel hood induction system. IATs will be optimal. The timing table will love it. Best of all, the hood scoop won't be fake any more.

The plastic jounce spacer: Looks like it plops on the axle and gives the jounce something closer to contact rather than extending the actual jounce down.

You think we'll need to do the soft brake lines for this conversation or will our stockers make the stretch? Hard for me to picture any of this without my parts. Supposed to get em on the 2nd. I have a daily watch on knuckle availability on that parts.gm site so I'll alert on here if I catch them add-to-cartable.

Down there looking at my stock stuff today I noticed the sway bar end links connect to the LCA. I wonder if the ZR2 has anything different in that regard

Need some clarification on the skids for the part number thread. This is what I have so far: ZR2 Skid Plates (need confirmation whether AT4X is the same): Front Bumper/Facia Area: 84913645 Underbody (need more placement details on where this is on truck): 85637479 Transfer Case: 85569359 (may need additional holes drilled in aft crossmember. Need more details) However that Bumper/Facia skid comes up as plastic and fitment is just (except BISON) so I dunno if it's actually part of the ZR2 package. The "underbody" skid details as aluminum.

I know the DSSVs are a big selling point for the conversion but at the same price remote Kings might make this easier without opening the brake system. I'm going to assume my Bilstein 5100s are going to have no trouble, but now you've got me worried lol. Good luck.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/chevy-gmc-release-new-parts-to-fix-unwanted-random-or-inadvertent-tailgate-opening/ New switch P/Ns in TSB https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10239121-0001.pdf Multi-Flex: 85626238 Standard: 85626239

LOL! Was looking at pics on phone at work and kinda looked like a separate pic of maybe a transfer case skid. Getting old!

Since the introduction of the ZR2 HD, many of us have waited for the parts to start hitting the market. They are now rolling out so let's build a thread where we can compile all the info on part numbers and related notes about converting a Z85 (standard) or Z71/X31 suspension over to the 1.5" lifted ZR2/AT4X. First some press release links to the uninitiated: ZR2/Bison - AT4X/AEV Edition Long story short, the ZR2/AT4X has a factory 1.5" lift, extra underbody protection, and special dampers. The 1.5" lift is desirable because of the way it goes about gaining the extra height. Unlike aftermarket systems that use different torsion keys or attempt to ease up on the ball joint angle with a different upper control arm; GM uses a new upper control arm, lower control arm, steering knuckle and differential drop strategy. This allows for the 1.5" lift to maintain proper factory spec ball joint and CV axle angles without compromising ride or capability. A few notes: -So far it seems these parts will work on both gas (L8T) and diesel (L5P) powered HDs. At this time only the Multimatic DSSV shocks have unique gas/diesel/Bison/AEV Edition specs. -The pricey Multimatic DSSV shocks are not required to run this 1.5" factory lift. Only proper shock height of an aftermarket shock will be required. For example the popular Bilstein B8 5100 is advertised for vehicles with 0-2" of lift. -If you are looking for more of a leveled look, skip the rear lift blocks and leave the back of your truck stock. Going up 1.5" in the front should level out most factory HDs from a visual perspective. -So far the complete part change list is UCAs, LCAs, Knuckles, Diff Drop Brackets, and Shocks for the front. Lift blocks, U-bolts (same as 3500 HD), Jounce Bumper Extension and Shocks for the rear. A one piece Front Skid Plate, Underbody Skid Plate (need confirmation on placement) and Transfer Case Skid Plate round it out. Bison/AEV Edition include unique part number Shocks and unique stamped steel Skid Plates (that at this time are extremely expensive). -RPO for ZR2 is ZRX -RPO for Bison is ULV Part numbers: Front: Upper Control Arms: Driver : 85144988 Passenger: 85144989 Lower Control Arms: Driver: 85144990 Passenger: 85144991 Steering Knuckles (CURRENTLY ON NATIONAL BACKORDER AND UNABLE TO PURCHASE): Driver: 85144996 Passenger: 85144997 Differential Bracket: Driver: 86787383 Passenger: 86787384 Mutltimatic DSSV Shocks (non-Bison/AEV Edition): Front Driver: 86557795 (Unknown if Gas or Diesel only) Front Passenger: 86557796 (Unknown if Gas or Diesel only) Bison: Unknown Rear: Lift Block x 2: 87844916 U-Bolt (same as 3500HD) x 2: 11610959 Jounce Bumper Extension x 2: 85565250 Mutltimatic DSSV Shocks (non-Bison/AEV Edition) Gas x2: 86557751 Diesel x 2: 86557750 ZR2 Skid Plates (need confirmation whether AT4X is the same): *Possible Front Skid Awaiting Confirmation* Underbody (need more placement details on where this is on truck): 85637479 Transfer Case: 85569359 (may need additional holes drilled in aft crossmember. Need more details) Bison Skid Plates (need confirmation whether AEV Edition is the same): Steering Rack: 85550010 Underbody (need more placement details on where this is on truck): 85550011 Transfer Case Skid Plate: 86513097 More info to come as it becomes available. Thanks to those on this forum that have done a lot of the leg work on this already @Joe97281 & @newdude

Is that bottom pic a skid? Which one?