SierraHD17

Seems to still be confusion here on issues with these trucks regarding the oil pressure sending unit screen. First and foremost let's clarify which engines have the screen below the oil pressure sending unit. In short it's only on engines equipped with active fuel management. In the full size trucks that equates to any 5.3 in a GMT900 bodied truck from 2007 through 2013(LY5, LH6, LC9 etc). Otherwise it would also be present in the L76 6 liter trucks as well as the L94 equipped 6.2 powered SUV's and the oddball hybrids 6 liter (LFA or LZ1). Regular L92 or L9H 6.2's, the LY2 or L20 4.8 or the LY6 and L96 in the HD trucks do NOT have the screen under the sensor. Furthermore no GMT800 truck (1999 through 2007 classic) has the screen as those are Gen 3 engines and this pressure sender screen is a Gen IV thing only as outlined above.

Be nice to have on my 17 HD as it would stop the truck from cooling itself off at idle when it's cold outside. Switching to e fans would accomplish that too but the good old e78 ecm doesn't have the mental capacity to accomplish electric fan control on the trucks.

I'm late to the party but it took me a long time. I went through 12 of the L9H trucks over the course of 10 years including a 2010 I factory ordered and left on the lot because for lack of better words... they were pathetic for power. This 2013 I picked up is definitely not.. but it's a weirdo 6.2 powered extended cab LT with basically no interior options other than being an NHT optioned truck with 3.73s. This little low mileage gem is sitting at about 45000 miles and I am going to give it a cam and headers to start.. should be a good improvement. I am pulling the engine though to do my cam swap... I want the oil pan off and pull the pressure relief gm has plumbed in above the oil filter out and toss it. I can't stand that thing limiting oil pressure to 55 pounds... and wouldn't doubt it leaks constantly and it's why i see these 25 to 30 psi hot idles when the gen 3s have no problem maintaining 40 psi at idle. That's just me though.

The older HDs have the brake pads rattle in the caliper brackets... it drives a person nuts. The 17 uses the same setup as far as the brakes go so I am sure it will do it too in time.

You have fun with that lol.

There is your answer Randy. You won't get any replies on Peformancetrucks as it's a dead forum and nobody mods these trucks for good reason. There is 2 threads about guys with headers, blowers and cams over there on 2011+ HD gas pots. The headers they used were the 2007 to 2013 half ton long tubes which is what I bought. But guess what..... I'm just going to get a 2010 to 2013 6.2 half ton and mod that a little instead. Both those HD trucks ended up going back to stock and getting sold. Fun stuff.

No idea. Not putting them on so buy a set and let everyone else know. If you aren't tuning it yourself you won't know one way or another. My truck runs and shifts awesome too.. it still has issues but you wouldn't know unless you starting playing with the tune.

Because the ecms in these trucks are complete garbage to tune and very few buyers get a gas HD to modify it lol. Companies don't make parts there is zero market for. Yes I commented in the header thread linked and I have a set of speed engineering long tubes I bought along with a cam to do in my 17. I won't with as much of a pain as the ecm is though so they can be reused elsewhere. 2011 to 2019 is all the same parts.

Puny fuel tank and pathetic axle ratios. A couple good reasons I don't need to look at GM half tons for a very long time.

E78A ecm. Look it up on HP or Efilive and realize there is diddly squat for support for it. No it's not like tuning an E38 or an E92. It looks the same table wise as an E92 kind of but you are lucky if the table actually works. He's an L96 6 liter with a 6L90e like the rest of the HD's. Should be in the HD truck section of the forum and not the half ton stuff.

Yep.... this is the exact reason I advise against working on these gas engine HD's since 2011. I have a cam for mine but I am not installing it. I have ghost timing issues I can't fix on the stock tune.... let alone start really messing with airflow and the VE table. Not to mention I can completely re-write a table and it doesn't respond to the changes lol Two guys I have read write ups on tore their blowers off and sold them. One used a Magnusson kit and it never ran right with part throttle surging. The other used a CTS V blower and had more or less the same issues. Hopefully you get it to work and there is some hope! I don't know if HP has updated anything for support in any of the new releases but I have my doubts with such a limited market.

I get messages when I post similar stuff too and depending on the mood I am in nets the reply or if I delete it. Guys believe whatever they want to believe. There are a few members here that if they see this in a thread they lose their shit and tell you what a snake oil seller you are. After a couple rounds of that I don't offer advice or help anyone anymore..... I don't need trolls following me thread to thread to denounce everything you say. Banter is fine and I actually enjoy it but it seems so many need to resort to name calling like a 5 year old if you don't agree with them. Tuning is not something most guys want to get into really though. I do it because I have too... not because I honestly want too lol. Well... yes I do like it but if I found someone decent that tuned things the way I liked I would pay them. That has netted me fixing a bunch of tunes so now.... voila.... I write my own haha.

No one here cares lol. I tune with both efilive and hpt myself. You would be lucky to find 5 active members here that even understand what you are posting lol. Guys want a recommendation and pick whatever they want... no point arguing about it.

I own both turbo and supercharged stuff... both have their place. You won't find much rebuttal here... join performancetrucks.net if you want that argument lol.

I see it with the fleet at work. The things they will not cover even under the 3 year 36000 mile is pretty sad.... or defer and hope the driver accepts it. Some of this is the dealer but some is not. 50/50 chance lol. My own 2015 was finally more or less denied when the dealer was told there were no more fixes for the 8 speed and it was noted so if I took it elsewhere any other dealer was to do nothing until GM had a solution... fun stuff huh. Its screwed, you can't fix it and you won't keep trying lol. My boring old 2017 6 liter hasn't seen the dealership once since purchase either and I don't think it will. I have enough done to it now I wouldn't take it in anyway but in 25000 miles its had no issues.. knock on wood.

With GM'S warranty it's much more common to be denied warranty without any tuning either by a loop hole or something they can call abuse. The amount of vehicles tuned is so small it's unlikely to happen.

I actually prefer tuna over salmon. That's about as useful as fighting like children.

Meh.. Ram has 3.92's available and their 8 speed with a deeper first gear (4.71) than the GM 8 speed ( it's 4.56) and basically matching the GM/Ford collaboration 10 speeds 4.70 first gear. Ford offers 3.73's behind the same 10 speed GM uses... and 4.10's when rolling 35's on the Raptor. GM is just afraid of adding rear axle ratio... it's not like they are running away with mileage points either because cruising a N/A V8 trying to run on one cylinder at a time is so cool at 1400 rpm lol.

I imagine it's not a huge deal to swap the box but it's the programming afterwards that needs to be done to remove the e assist and all the codes that will be the problem.

Doesn't need to be a work truck. My 2017 SLE is loaded for an SLE ( Bose, heated seats, console, power pedals and slider and blah blah blah) and I do not have the digital steering assist. It's a 6 liter though and basically if you have a Duramax you get stuck with it. Cab configuration and trim make all the difference. Mine drives perfect leveled with 34s. I did add a steering dampener shock though and it got rid of any bump steer I had.

I do have a 3/4 ton yes. There is a video in this thread I used that shows the part numbers to order. The HD trucks and half tons use different wheels and clocksprings.

Yeah I know that lol. One side of the plug is terminated from X51. I am just saying I don't know whether it is on the other side yet as I haven't pulled mine apart. I am guessing not as i don't see the plug for the wheel itself but who knows. That X201 plug is in a wonderful spot to get to and I haven't starting tearing things apart that deep yet. I will figure it out as it's what I do.

Pin 1 and pin 2 would be in the connector hooking to the clockspring. The pin id on X201 should remain just 41. Just seems ridiculous they put the effort in to run the wiring to there and didn't finish it... or did and I just can't find the plug. My truck is a weird ass fleet order so it doesn't surprise me. How many Bose, heated power buckets/console, power pedals, power slider etc trucks do you see with manual single zone climate and without fog lights lol.

Following the schematic and this video mine is just wierd.. or I am blind and retarded. Like I have the violet wire with the white stripe from pin 37 on X51 to pin 41 on the X201 connector. I should then just need to connect to the other side of that being pin 1 ( hot) and pin 2 (ground) on X4 which is the clockspring plug end. I mean most guys I have read here either have nothing whatsoever, or have the connector plug for the clocksping but are missing the jumper lead from X51 to X201. Instead I have the jumper from X51 to X201 and apparently no plug...... or it is there and in a different spot and or hidden very well lol. To use a jumper harness ( like pgmaboa shows in the video) direct to X51 I would have to pull out the existing wire in pin 37 and land another. In my case I should be able to go from X201 and just finish the circuit off. Just need some pins and a connector end or just cut the clocksprings one off and do my own plug.

Well this is fun... so I ordered my wheel and whatnot but tracing this is kind of a pain. My truck doesn't have the connector under the dash for the heated wheel plug... and I do have power adjustable pedals. So for fun I pulled the fuse block out and I already have the pin in the block and the violet/white wire that runs to X201 on the bcm. I obviously just don't have the actual connector portion of the harness where it leaves from the bcm again. I'm not seeing how I easily get the bcm down or to it to add any wiring though... but I am sure I will figure that out.