300 Blackout

The working current is only 3.3amps at 12volts dc which is 39 Watts. A comparable HIR2 bulb draws 55 Watts at 12.8 volts dc which is 4.2 amps. The HID uses 25% less current.

With your hood open, look above each headlight for a hole in the plastic cover that sits above your grill/radiator/condenser. Down in that hole is a plastic screw that raises or lowers the beam of the headlight projector. All you have to do is insert a screwdriver and turn one way or the other to adjust the lights.

There is a 3 year warranty on the Hylux ballasts. It’s an easy process to make a claim. Send Phil (Fast) an email letting him know there’s a problem. He’ll ask you to follow a couple steps to confirm the issue is in fact the ballast. If it is, you prepay a reduced price for the replacement ballast which will arrive in 2 days. When it arrives, remove the failed ballast, destroy it (cut the wires) and send him a pic of the destroyed ballast. He refunds your money less the shipping of the replacement ballast. I received the new ballast two days after I made my payment. I received a refund before the new one arrived since I destroyed my failed ballast and sent him a pic while the new one was shipping. In the end, I paid $8 (shipping) for what would have cost me $58 to replace and had it fixed two days after I made a claim. Simple. It took me more time to write this description than it did to actually make the warranty claim.

He said it in his post, it was the headlights. lol

Deleted AFM/DOD One of the main reasons I switched to 4.56 gears was to spend more time in V4 for improved fuel economy. The gears achieved that goal. Then I read the TSB about failed lifters in the AFM/DOD cylinders and numerous threads here about it. What a disaster! Bye bye cylinder deactivation. Hello full time V8. So far, not a big hit to fuel economy.

Not sure how many miles are on the truck but if it just started doing this, a good place to start is changing the diff fluid. It certainly can wear out and lose its lubricating properties. I would do that first before going any further and see if it fixes the issue. If it doesn’t resolve after that I think you may be due for some differential service to see why it’s binding and/or replace some parts. Amsoil Sever Gear 75W-90 is what I just put in mine after I replaced my ring, pinion and bearings but I left my auto locker stock. No issues whatsoever. 72,000 miles.

Vacuum pump, located at the bottom of the driver’s side of the engine, exhausts air into the crankcase. Sounds like a manifold leak if you can hear it which in my truck seemed to be more prominent when it was cold. I removed mine and replaced it with an electric vacuum pump. So far, I haven’t heard the choo-choo-train in the morning at cold startup nor do I hear any exhaust leak type noises.

Lol. Yes, he sure does look like one although 28lbs would be very unusual for a full grown dog. When I first saw the pic I thought he was a 5 month old Dutch. I had one years ago and he was a great working dog and very affectionate too. One day I hope to have another. Good for you for giving that little guy a chance by adopting from a shelter.

Dutch Shepherd?

Thanks for following up on this to share what the cause was.

For some reason, I get the feeling cold means two different things to you and I. I looked outside this morning and found that all of my grass is white. Everyone’s roof is covered in a white flaky substance and it is in-fact cold. Not I can’t wear my favorite tank top cold, but cover your nuts and noggin cold. Either an Arctic Volcano erupted close by or its f*ing snowing. Since I don’t know of any volcanos in the area, I’m betting this s*** is snow. As much as I hate this crap, I continue to stay every year for it. It’s like geographical Stockholm Syndrome.

Bypass oil filter parts list Amsoil Parts: 1 x EABP90-EA Bypass Oil Filter 1 x BK303-EA Bypass Oil Filter Base JEGS Parts: 2 x 555-110101 1/8"NPT TO #4 FLARE BLACK 2 x 555-110000 #4 STR HOSE END BLACK 2 x 555-110020 #4 90° HOSE END BLACK 1 x 555-100902 #4 HOSE PRE-CUT 10-FEET 2 x 555-110141 1/8"NPT- #4 90° BLACK Hardware: 3 x 5” Stainless Steel Bolts (I used 3/8 hex head bolts. Can’t remember the thread) 3 x Stainless Steel Locking nuts for the bolts 6 x Stainless Steel Washers (I think I used 1” or 1.5”) 2 x Bosch Metric Adapter Kit Part # FST 7573 (this kit is cheaper than buying the thread adapter individually) Thread Compound: 1 x Permatex Seal + Lock Part # 57535 1 x Permatex Surface Prep Part # 24163 I didn’t use the Surface Prep originally and didn’t have any issues. When I redo my hoses I will be applying this to help speed up the cure process and make sure everything cures correctly.

CVR got back to me about their pump. They didn’t answer any of the questions I had about the duty cycle of the electric motor, weather resistance or operating temps. The only thing they said was if my pump is running as often as it is then I need a reserve vacuum tank. Underwhelming response. Yes, 1SLOW1500 is correct, the second oil filter is just my personal preference. It filters the oil down to 2 microns rather than the ~20 microns of full flow filters. The oil stays very clean.

Looks great!

Which dealer?

If you’re gonna drop the coin for a true dual cat back, take a look at this video and see if it interests you. At 2:40 is when they compare the true dual to stock. I’m not familiar with glass packs to quiet things down so I can’t really give you an opinion. I also like the sound of the ATAK system and understand if you want the tone but not the volume. It could get a bit tiresome.

The “wheel” located next to your headlight control knob will dim it along with the rest of your gauges and lighting.

I just finished mitigating my frame corrosion issue. I spent a ton of time prepping the frame with the same tools you’re using. I also used a needle scaler and xylene to strip the wax. Toluene would have been a better choice since it evaporates faster. If you use a solvent be extra careful around any plastic or rubber. I sprayed two coats of POR-15 (1 quart). If you spray, I highly recommend you use a narrow spray pattern, siphoned spray gun, tyvek, cartridge respirator with new cartridges and follow their thinning instructions closely if you choose to thin it. I thinned mine with a little too much POR-15 solvent and it made the paint run. You will miss spots even when spraying so keep a little left over to paint with a brush. Most of the time you spray the gun will be turned sideways (the grip in particular) if you do it on ramps like yours. Plan accordingly and turn the siphon tank 90 degrees from the angle of the grip. That will allow the tank to be oriented down while the grip is sideways. I top coated with 5 cans of Rust-Oleum Professional Rubberized Undercoating. I also had a can of the non-professional rubberized undercoating to darken up the finish. The professional version has superior adhesion but can look a little chalky at times. The non-pro version is darker and adheres well to the pro version. The value of these rattle cans to get into tight spots cannot be overstated. For the differential cover and the resonator on the exhaust I used Rust-Oleum black bar-b-q paint. Just the standard version since it isn’t glossy. It has held up very well on both parts. Before winter, I plan on spraying fluid film on the inside of the frame. Here are some pics that I just went out and took of the undercarriage unwashed. There’s some dirt and dust but you’ll get the idea of how it turned out. Be sure to check out the pics in the link below of what the frame looked like when I started. Good luck, the hard work will pay off. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=33003&share_tid=205505&share_pid=2039596&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Egm-trucks%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F205505-Substantial-Frame-Rust-2014-Sierra%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__2039596&share_type=t

Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=33003&share_tid=215717&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Egm-trucks%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F215717-Vacuum-Pump-Delete---Electric-Replacmenent&share_type=t

Deleted mechanical vacuum pump. Installed a CVR655 electric pump. Installed an Amsoil bypass oil filter using the vacuum pump oil galleys.

Fingers crossed for you that it’s the vacuum pump.

I was just thinking the same thing. Maybe a muffler for an RC engine could be retrofitted.

I disassembled the factory pump as much as I could without removing the pulley. I was very surprised to see the exhaust for the pump is vented to the engine’s crank case via the return oil port. The oil intake appears to feed the bearings directly then is directed up into the vacuum chamber where it is returned to the engine via the exhaust port. Blue Arrows: Intake air path of travel Red Arrows: Exhaust air and oil path of travel Yellow Arrow: Secondary exhaust port Green Arrows: Oil intake and exit into vacuum chamberThere are two exhaust ports, one appears to be there only to prevent breaking the pump if it is spindled in reverse. There is a check valve on the hose connection for the pump and prevents oil or gas from being sent to the booster.

Thanks! It is mounted with rubber grommets. The pump comes with them installed and a aluminum flange bushing. I removed the aluminum flange bushing to make room for the 1/4” stainless bolts that I ran through the frame to mount the pump with. The sound is the sound of the pump. A dynamat lined box would help but I’d be concerned about heat build up especially with how often the pump runs. With an aftermarket exhaust I doubt you will hear the pump. I’m gonna reach out to CVR to get some specs on their pump motor. I would be surprised if they didn’t use a continuous duty motor. I’ve been thinking about a vacuum tank. Honestly I’m not sure how big it would need to be to really make a difference. I like the feedback that the pump is working although I would have preferred a gauge or light.

The pump activates at 16 inches Hg vac and cuts off at 21.5 inches.