Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

19 Good

About 6.2_GMC_DEN

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
    Murfreesboro, TN
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2014 GMC Sierra Denali 1500
  1. Taking heads to machine shop in the morning. Did not like how the valves were sealing even after attempting to lap them in. Too much work to not go ahead with a goof valve job. Note: I was able to loosen oil pump and slide forward just enough to remove cam timing gear (Oil pan still bolted in place). I am fairly certain I can get it back in time going back, we will see. Plan on making a mark 180 from original timing mark to help me line it up. Will use the piston at TDC for crank position. This has not been as bad as everyone had made out. I was a GM Master Tech from 1993 to 2005 but I would say anyone mechanically inclined could do this with good repair info. Also I have $1100 in parts for the cam install portion. TSP Headers and Cats, New Plugs, Taylor plug wires, antifreeze, oil, & filter which is close to $900. Head work will cost $350.
  2. I have 3.42 gear. Will have cam, headers, HF Catted Midpipe, Magnaflow muffler, CAI, E85 sensor/tune.
  3. I'm pretty sure I have a messed up cam lobe... I could care less about a 5.3 pulling away from me.
  4. Did this back in June myself.
  5. The large gear on the front of the cam is the actuator that controls the camshaft through its 31 degrees of potential movement. Also note the groove cut into the second journal. This groove is what directs oil from the main galley forward to the actuator. The cam bolt that also serves as the valve that directs oil in various directions to move the phaser to either advance or retard the camshaft. Pic below is the HP Tuners page for VVT control. Maximum load would be at the bottom of the chart with highest rpm on the far right. Note that the biggest numbers occur at light throttle (shaded yellow). This is because GM “parks” the cam at full advance, so the numbers refer to the number of degrees of retard implemented. GM retards the cam at light throttle to reduce intake manifold vacuum. Advance vs. Retard Advanced Early intake closing creates more cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds Earlier exhaust opening reduces pumping losses to improve fuel mileage Builds more cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds for better torque Decreases intake piston-to-valve (P-V) clearance Increases exhaust P-V clearance Retarded Later intake closing point delays maximum cylinder pressure to higher engine rpm Delayed exhaust opening allows longer cylinder pressure push on the piston Builds more high-rpm power Increases intake P-V Decreases exhaust P-V Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) does not change with advance or retard
  6. Once it is tore down I will share pics of what I suspect a scored cam lobe. Dealer replaced lifters and bent pushrod and said cam was fine at the time. I am sure it is toast now. I am not changing this cam for huge HP gains but sure I will gain 50 and because of VVT they are able to maintain torque down low on this cam if tuned right. Also doing a cam swap is no big deal for me. I understand how you could feel the way you do. Thanks
  7. It's a Stage 1 for a 6.2L like I stated in the beginning. Not a Stage 4. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4532-texas-speed-performance-lt1lt4l86-62l-camshaft-package.aspx
  8. Under $2K in parts and installing myself. A Whipple supercharger is $6200. I did see a small Magnuson supercharger for $4500 Black Friday deal but I hate the inlet on that blower.
  9. How do you know it's too much? That's why I posted to get some real world feedback if anyone had a similar set-up. I don't think in a 6.2L that this cam is too big. I might need a converter and am leaning on getting one.
  10. I got no response over these either. I will be install myself. New parts to include, Cam, Lifters, lifter trays, push rods, timing chain, DOD delete, valve springs, valve stem seals, head bolts, head gaskets, 1 7/8" TSP headers, catted mid-pipe, all for under $2K. I am going back and forth on a torque converter... I probably should go ahead and do it as a Circle D 2800-3200 stall is under $600. I might supercharge down the road but really more focused on eliminating the junk that GM puts in these engines from the factory. I want it more reliable, end of story. Was hoping for some feedback on past experiences with a similar set-up. I guess I will go with my gut. Thanks

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.