CajunFries

They are wayyyyy too nice for my truck! Straight trade for stock headers! Done deal! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sending it over ASAP! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Headers are back from getting Ceramic coated. Y pipe is back from getting final touches (added a 60mm wastegate and an extra o2 sensor bung). Now I gotta wait 5 days for the headers to completely cure...... They even coated the inside!!! Also had to make some adjustments..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ohhh yeah I can’t wait. I did it for 2 main reasons; 1. Lower the engine bay heat because blower’s heat soak in SoCal’s 110+ degrees sucksssss. 2. Driver’s side brake lines is like 3/4” away from the header and I had brake fade at ...... high speed.... Can’t wait!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol I’ll just ship you guys my truck! Easier! Haha I can’t wait to see how they look! And cutting down the heat in the bay!!! It should be almost half! Forgot this picture of the V band... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Headers and Y pipe is finally done with V bands. Now it’s off to get ceramic coating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m running 1 from http://www.alldrivelines.com. It’s rated for 175mph with 800+hp. If you got the steel 1 already, you don’t need to upgrade. Find a local shop that can balance yours. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With turbo. I’m sure stock fuel system will be able to handle it.... but I would still upgrade the in-tank. With a blower... you’re be pretty close to maxing them out. That’s on 91.... I’m sure you can run the stock cam. Idk about having it being active tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trimmed the overhang on the CTSV pads on the ZR1 calipers. (Forgot to take after photos) Got a new set of plugs and gapped them down to 0.025”. Now waiting for my headers and Y pipe to come back and put it all back together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LT4 is a bit cheaper if your goal isn’t super high. It is a smaller blower. So if you’re trying to get more.... you’ll need to really port it out and that ain’t cheap. E85 is easy to run if your fuel system have enough room for it. I would say stock cam blower and E85... you’ll probably be limit to about 450 (depends on what dyno). That’s with an upgraded low side pump/ stock high side. With either blower .... you would want to find a reputable shop that can dyno tune Gen V LT engines. It is wayyyyyy better than any mail order tune. If you got a 5.3 and want a decent amount 400-500... there’s a guy goes by the name “Cee Ward” on FB. He’s selling his SLP 1900 for like 3k complete. It’s too small for his 6.2 and his power goal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took the long tube headers and Y pipe (speed engineering) off to get V bands (the slip fit is leaking way too much) and flex pipe welded on. Then off to Ceramic powder coating! Accident dropped a spark plug trying to get it off of the socket.... now debating if I want to replace the whole set or just the 1.... got about 8k of hard boosted life on this set.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Basic whipped kit without much add on.... expect minimum around 8500 if you’re doing it yourself. I went a lil extra mile and in it about 12k. Now I wanna crank it up a lil more and I’m at 20k.... it ain’t cheap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Everything is on this page https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/collections/gm-truck-suv-kits/products/gm-truck-suv-6-piston-c6-zr1-caliper-big-brake-bracket-kit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

-LT4 injectors -LT4 HPFP but will need to grind the bottom side of the whipple unless you wanna cough up big money and get Lingenfelter’s HPFP. -Long tube headers will drop your boost and make more power at the same time. -535 in tank pump. Look up Jose Zambrano on FB. He make a direct drop in. -E85 sensor, Jose also sell a kit. Easy plug and play -NGK 6510 @0.025” or Brisk RR12. Also @0.025” -katech 160 degrees thermostat -trans T-stat mod. Free and easy. ( ) -make sure you have a good catch can and vent can. (Vent can is very important. Insufficient PCV will pop your rear main seal) Optional -Granatelli wires -SmoothBoost to get rid of sensitive boost spike -VAS traction bar to prevent Axle wrap -driveshaft -Stabilitrac bypass switch Goodluck. It’s a huge money pit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Diablo Trinity T2 was bad ass. It also served as a gauge. It’s up for sale now if you are interested. I’m boosted now and needed something like HPtuner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup!! Minimum 20”. These are 20x9-18 or -12. Plenty of room. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

13” stock vs 16.1” “BBK rotor” DONE! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahahaha hey hey hey, I do take my “lowered 2WD” off roading every once in a while. Hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got some time to throw these on!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3.5” MBRP universal Resonator. BNIB. $60 pick up. Rancho Cucamonga ca. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just what is in this picture. Missing just the tube and the couplers. Emailed S&B, they said it’s about $80 foe the tube and all couplers and clamps. Will only fit 14-15 NOT 16-18. $100 shipped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Used K&N cone air filter 3000-3200 miles. Just washed and oil. https://www.knfilters.com/blog/universal-4-inch-flange-by-9-inch-tall-kn-air-filter-in-multi-language-packaging/ $30 shipped Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$450 shipped!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$280 anyone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coolant temp sensor went out. Quick swap and we are good to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk