Could be your battery is on it's way out. That would be the first thing I would check. Everything on these trucks depend on the voltages being correct. Fluctuations in voltages can cause certain things to malfunction and/or codes to appear.
When you start getting multiple errors like this, the first thing I say is to check your battery. When the battery starts going bad, the voltage fluctuates and that can cause the computer to go wonky. If you are still on the OEM battery, it is approximately 3 years old and probably going bad. Get that checked first and maybe save yourself some money by not having to buy unnecessary parts.
Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I should have stated that my grocery trips usually consist of a 40+ mile round trip as I live in a rural area and the wife likes to shop at a particular store. I drove yesterday and the truck has been sitting for over 24 hours in the garage. I just checked the battery voltage and it read 12.6V. I do not have anything extra plugged in. I have noticed that when I first start the truck, the needle will be below 14 on the gauge. Then within a mile of driving, it will slowly crawl up to the the high range. After a restart from the auto-stop, the needle will go right back to where it was before the auto-stop.
I am looking for some expert opinions from some of the techs on here or others that may know what is causing my problem. I am very familiar with how the GM charging system works and the voltage gauge will fluctuate. Back story: My voltage gauge has been reading above 14 volts since I noticed it last Oct but could have started sooner. My truck has turned into a weekend grocery getter since Covid shut down everything and I work from home full time. I have put only 4k miles on my truck in the last 12 months so since I am not driving it as much, I may not have noticed it. In Oct when I noticed this I thought that maybe I wasn't driving it enough and the battery was getting low. In Nov I noticed that my autostop wasn't working either. I eventually took the truck in to the dealer in Dec to have both issues checked out. They said that the battery had a bad cell which was causing the autostop to not function, and that may be why the volt meter was always above 14. So a new battery was installed and that fixed the autostop issue, but the volt meter still reads above 14, like close to the next mark to the right. I took it back again in Dec and they said that it was all within specs and gave me a copy of the GM Charging System Description and Operation. In Feb this year, during the Polar Vortex, the volt meter crept to the other side of that right tick mark. I estimate that it was over 15V. Now that Spring is almost here, the volt meter needle is between 14 and the next tick mark. I put my ODBii reader on it the other day when the ambient temps were in the 50s and the voltage was 14.6 consistently. Redwngr posted on another topic the following which reads exactly like my GM handout the dealer gave me. This is part of it: Charging System Operation The purpose of the charging system is to maintain the battery charge and vehicle loads. There are 6 modes of operation and they include: • Battery Sulfation Mode • Charge Mode • Fuel Economy Mode • Headlamp Mode • Start Up Mode • Voltage Reduction Mode The engine control module (ECM) controls the generator through the generator turn ON signal circuit. The ECM monitors the generator performance though the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. The signal is a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0–100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–95 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 95–100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. The following table shows the commanded duty cycle and output voltage of the generator: Commanded Duty Cycle Generator Output Voltage 10% 11 V 20% 11.56 V 30% 12.12 V 40% 12.68 V 50% 13.25 V 60% 13.81 V 70% 14.37 V 80% 14.94 V 90% 15.5 V The generator provides a feedback signal of the generator voltage output through the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to the ECM. This information is sent to the body control module (BCM). The signal is PWM signal of 128 Hz with a duty cycle of 0– 100 percent. Normal duty cycle is between 5–99 percent. Between 0–5 percent and 100 percent are for diagnostic purposes. Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements. Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met. • The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds. • GMLAN (Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request) is true, as sensed by the HVAC control head. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. • The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). • Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent. • Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) • Current sensor fault exists. • System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature. Based on the Commanded Duty Cycle, I am running in the 70%-80% range. For the bulleted items above, I can eliminate wipers (not raining), HVAC is off, not driving over 90mph. If I am driving 30 - 40 minutes, I would expect the Battery State of Charge to be at 100%. The system voltage should be above 12.56v. Battery temp should be above 32 since the ambient temps are in the 50's. I have kind of narrowed it down to the battery current sensor through the process of elimination. How can I test to see if the battery current sensor is bad? Or could it be that the ECM is stuck and needs to be rebooted or reprogrammed? (FWIW, I had recall N192210560 Engine Recalibration Torque done on 8/30/20 so the ECM was reprogrammed then). I am thinking of dropping the truck off at the dealer and let them keep it until it is fixed. This is not normal. Sorry for the long post.
The battery in the meter is for measuring resistance when in the ohms function or test continuity. You should not need a battery to test the truck's battery. You could have faulty testing leads or a bad meter. To test your leads put the dial in the continuity check mode (just to the right of the 6 o'clock position). Your test leads should be in the same position on the meter as when testing the voltage. Now touch the test leads together. You should get a tone, and the meter should read '1'. If that happens, then your test leads are functional. To test the DC voltage function, put the dial back on the 20. Get a good battery (AA, AAA, 9V) and touch the leads to it (red/positive, black/negative). You should read 1.5v or 9v, depending on the battery.
On the Chevy Accessories site, there are three different performance exhaust upgrade systems. There is the one that is the GM Performance exhaust, pn-84527234. The other two are identical to each other except they come with Borla tips pn-19419433 and 19419437. I noticed that the GM Performance one is a single in/single out muffler, and the other two are single in/dual out mufflers. Is one system better than the other? Is anyone familiar with this Borla system from GM?
On the screen where you confirm your info and place your order, there is a spot on the lower left for manufacturer's coupons. Click that and it will bring up the discounts that are running right now. I just ordered the 6.2l performance exhaust with the borla tips. It was only $50 more than the exhaust w/o the tips, $40 after the discount.
I had my wifi through att for a while. My checked my speeds when I was in a good cell signal range. My speeds over wifi were similar to what was posted by the OP. My speeds on my cell without the wifi were around 112mbs down and around 10mbs up. I contacted Onstar about rebooting my wifi. They sent some signal to my vehicle that "supposedly" rebooted the wifi router. No real improvement. I cancelled my att service for the truck. I did get the free Onstar data plan they were just offering. Checked my speeds again and still the same slow throughput. Does anyone know which fuse the router is on? I think a full reboot of the system may help.
Same here. Wifi speeds were slow. I contacted Onstar about it. They did some diagnostics and rebooted the system. The speed increased slightly but still wasn't as good as the speed on my phone. I cancelled my service as well.
My dealer in the STL area has a 2020 Silverado Northsky Blue, CC LT TB with the bucket seats, safety package, bed protection pkg, and some other stuff. https://www.elcochevrolet.com/VehicleDetails/new-2020-Chevrolet-Silverado_1500-Crew_Cab_Short_Box_4_Wheel_Drive_LT_Trail_Boss-Ballwin-MO/3536940513 If you want, I can hook you up with my salesman there.
Not disputing that. Fitmech said it's in the owner's manual. I'm just asking where it says in the owner's manual that if the case of a dead battery in the fob, you can still start the vehicle.
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