SS502

Well, I am not sure one would ever blow up on you lol. IF there is a carbon build up, and again I am not promoting a CC or disputing them but IF you have carbon build up you will or can lose proper air flow into the cylinder leading to decreased fuel economy and or performance, rough idle or if a chunk breaks off and is ingested possible cylinder damage. If it made it through the combustion chamber then it could in theory get stuck and damage your catalytic converter. These are all my opinions. I'm gonna have to put that disclaimer that Jacoby puts in his signature block into mine LOL.

That surprises me even more LOL...BMW has had issues that many of those owners use to justify the installation of a catch can. Even before the GM DI engines. The BMW S55 engine has an air oil separator in the PCV system that returns oil back to the sump, this is doing the same thing an external catch can does minus dumping back into the sump. NOT arguing Shakey, just surprises me they/he said that. I would bet my pink slip that more BMW owners run catch cans than K2 owners.

Wow...without saying yeah or neigh on needing one, Catch Cans have been around for decades.

I believe that if they did that they would be admitting there is an inherent issue with DI engine design that has been shown to have problems with carbon or whatever you want to call it. I am not saying a catch can is a cure all fix all, done going there but if any manufacturer is pushing an intake cleaning they are admitting they need to be cleaned. With injectors, they can recommend it to every single customer because they can't control what type of gasoline you put in it. Valve "coking" will or could (there I covered my butt) occur with any oil from AMSOIL to Walmart to Jiffy Lube special of the day.

Try looking at Mighty Mouse Solutions, they used to carry them but I can't access them from work...if they still do please post up the site.

Yes it would, I have it in my SLT but if you think you may do it take your time and read through this thread (especially page 30 and on) because there are some fine details involved. Not the install, that’s easy it is getting the right parts and following the process. WAMS is one small shop that does a lot more than reprogramming these clusters. Not to dissuade you just to let you know it’s not something you can just buy and install

This is why I’m just gonna opt out of Pro vs Con on these things lol...it’s like any Mod we choose to do, do it if ya like it

Much cheaper and not in a bad way. Member @flyingfool made his own too. In my mind, it’s the objective not the way you get there. No matter which way anyone goes, it still beats sitting in a Prius wishing you had a truck

Done!

Got rid of the key hole....

So it cleans the baked on oil and deposits off your intake and valves. My thinking is that if you’re going to be doing this every year a catch can probably wouldn’t be as beneficial to you. I’ve not ever used that stuff but have heard others swear by it. Best of luck to you and regardless of differing opinion, enjoy your truck.

What are you cleaning out of your intake and what procedure are you going to use if I may ask?

Naw, I’m gonna keep posting my little Pyrex container until I get to 1000 miles like I said I would. I’m not mad at you and I’ve seen the milky results that are as you said probably 90% water, mine I don’t believe is mainly water but you can certainly see some in it.

WTF? I’ve been trying to answer your question and you go there?? Have a great day.

How is that 6 ounces getting back to your crank case to contaminate the other 250?

Nasty...can’t stand someone chewing with their mouth open

Go back a few posts and see my results....that’s not 90% of other stuff. If anything I’d say 80% oil, 15% fuel and 5 % water. I don’t live in a cold environment so I don’t get much water.

No I do not.

Jim, I do not add anything. Idiots was your words not mine. No that oil does not get filtered back into the engine crank case (although GM has a new system that does) It gets sucked into your intake, through your intake valves and into your cylinder and then burned up and expelled through the exhaust. Thus it doesn’t matter how much is in your can, it would be the same amount that gets “used” anyway. That’s why I mentioned consumption. With or without a can you’re using the same amount of oil. Hope this helps.

None, I rely on my magical oil producing 6.2 L86 to keep me within tolerance! That’s why there is a range on the dipstick. Even if my can didn’t catch it, it was gonna get sucked up and burnt anyway. Common sense will tell you that with or without a can, your oil level is gonna drop between oil changes...it’s up to you to identify an abnormally high consumption rate. Why do you have to add oil?? The whole point is to “catch” the stuff. It’s not a measuring tool to identify oil consumption.

Good Lord....every single time Catch cans get discussed on here the same exact points are raised. I happen to agree with @Jacoby that they work. It doesn’t matter to me one bit if you don’t want to run one or not, it’s your truck, do as you please. If someone asks I’ll give an opinion, as for what the OP asked for, I stated as far as I know a K2 specific study does not exist. Doesn’t matter to me because like I said...don’t need to rub poison oak all over my face to know I’m gonna start itching soon. Damn man we even have Pro-catch can people arguing about WHERE to mount them. There is no winning on this topic and there never will be. The fact that Toyota and Ford both use a dual injector system and that GM has developed an internal system that dumps back into the crank case should tell you something. I’m not gonna tell you to buy one, I don’t sell them. But in a good faith attempt at trying to give the best advise AS I BELIEVE, then I’m going to recommend using one.

I’ll call...

Good to know, thank you for this!

Do you have a screen protector on it?

LOL....thank you!