So... Installed an aftermarket stereo probably 4 months ago in my 2014 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab... Only noticed recently that the interior lights do not come on when the passenger door is open. I have googled this to death and could not find where the sensor is that detects whether the door is open or not (and I looked all over the door and frame for a nub or something). Where is the sensor that detects whether the door is ajar or shut? Then all of a sudden a couple days ago the same door will not open with the keyfob or with the lock button on the driver side. Unlocks if I open the door and locks when you push down on the stalk on the door. I think the first problem could be that i buggered something when i was installing the stereo - the door lock/unlock seems unrelated since it happened months later, but hell it could be my fault too. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thinking it's worth tearing apart before i take it somewhere just in case it is something obvious... CB
Pros: 8” gives good bass, not overkill. Saves space under rear bench. Looks completely stock for a stealthy install. PAC unit lets you modify chime volume, which is nice. DSP gives you tons of control to tune the system making up for the wimpy EQ in the stock headunit. Cons: not 12’s. [emoji23] The only catch with the PAC unit is that it doesn’t play great with the non-Bose system ONLY for XM/AM/FM - in the non-Bose application you can flip the third dip switch to basically fake stereo sound by copying the L or R channel to the other side (so not real stereo). After having my head updated by[mention=192095]th3magpi3[/mention] I only really use my CarPlay anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I recently upgrade my stereo after planning for a long time. I ended up with a set of Morel 6x9 components in front and put the tweeters in the dash location where the little 3 inch ish speakers are, and put in morel coaxes in the rear. I used a sub box from Rodney’s boxes that installed under the center console that came preloaded with an 8” Kicker solobaric. The trick is getting it all to work with the stock head unit, because short of replacing with the super expensive Alpine Restyle headunit, you lose too much on the way of all the functions outside of the audio. I found a video on YouTube from the 5 star audio team for a 2014 Silverado or Sierra. I copied their setup and got a PAC unit to convert the signal to flat, then went to a Rockford Fosgate DSP, then to my amp (scores a good deal on a used Alpine PDX V9 on fleabay - 100x4 + 500x1 for the sub). Happy to share my experience. I’m still messing with it, just got it done last weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I’ve kept digging and I’ve heard it works, but with lackluster results. I’ve found a few other options with varying degrees of difficulty and/or issues. Option 1) cheaper and less hassle - AXXESS DSP with GMLAN-09 T harness. Deals with chime and gives you what looks to be a basic dsp. Total ~ $250 on fleabay Option 2) PAC AMP PRO with a different DSP like a DSR-1 or MiniDsp - pricier but better adjustment of chime volumes. Issues with summing the right channel for essentially mono sound from satellite (AM/FM/XM). - only an issue with non Bose trucks (like mine). Option to go with TOSLINK output to the DSP for cleaner signal.- $350 + optional TOSLINK output + a DSP ($200-300 min). Option 3) Screw it and go M650 AND get a dsp. Now we’re over a grand and I’m not really willing to jump that high. Im between option 1 or 2. 2 is a little more money, but I watched a few installs from 5 star audio (good info in those) and it seems the chime control volume for the Axxess unit only works if installed in Bose equipped cars for some reason. It still gives you chimes, but just at an unknown level. The nice thing about option 2 is that dial for dealing with the chimes - plus having the optical out gives me more dsp options later on if I go that path. I never really listen to the stereo or XM anyway, all car play. Even if it does bother me, I’m thinking it may be possible to just replace the radio module in the truck with one from a Bose unit - that’d require someone to program to my VIN (which will be a decent outlay of $$ - maybe $175 for the module and programming to find out it may or may not work). Decisions decisions...
Anyone use the PAC AMP-Pro AP4-GM61? I saw a vid from the 5star audio guys on YouTube that you can use it for non Bose systems, even though it’s a bit janky for AM/FM/XM - other than that it supposedly works fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oof. Yeah I’m with ya, but the price is a bit steep. $850 is a bit ouchie. [emoji50] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve read plenty of people suggesting doing this but never one where someone completed it and liked it...
Did anyone try this? I’m thinking of tapping the rear speaker to an lc2i and then run that to a Sony amp with built in dsp to keep the fader (albeit through an app). Or am I better off getting an lc6i?
I’m in the same boat, looking to try a lc2i from the rear speaker to an amp and leaving the dash speakers alone. I can’t seem to find anyone reporting what happened AFTER trying this, just suggesting it. Can anyone *CHIME* in if this works to deal with the door chimes and Bluetooth calling.
Is there any any advantage to doing it this way over keeping the dash speakers powered by the stock system, and then pulling the signal from the rear speakers to go to a lc2i LOC? I figure I’ll lose the Bluetooth calls and door chimes from the driver side front door, but that’s all I can figure.
Sorry, im a newb. I was planning on keeping my stock hu in my 2014 non Bose Sierra and adding a LOC like the audio control LCQ-1. Would this still help me out or no? An able me to go input to loc to amp and then amp back to the output on this?
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