What’s your process to budget for a build like this? In terms of talking to various shops for example for a cab cage. They are all so busy right now like you said. I think they get a lot of tire kickers so are not that great at quoting work (my experience). Do you find that’s the case or has it not been so bad dealing with the shops and talking to them as you make a decision who to go with? And maybe more specifically what factors do you take when selecting a fabricator? I can’t imagine sending my 4 year old truck off to get town down for a cage haha. Great build though love following this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@AZ_RADO_RNR sweet! you plan on rocking this set up with the DK bed cage and shocks for now or you still snowballing this bad boy?
+1, and with muffler delete, what RPM's do you hear it, and what is it like cruising at 65-75? Thats my fear. I want a system where I don't hear anything for long drives ! @Shazbotthegreat
Thanks! I think I have the same. Sorry when I said 'power tailgate" I only meant the auto 'down/open' button from the FOB or the clicker in the center console. Thats what I have - it is not powered back up closed. So when you click the FOB to open the tailgate, it will fold open no problem? Thats what I am looking for. I have read many of them 'click' to de-latch but get caught and won't open.
Title says it all! Tried searching the many tonneau cover threads but there is no easy answer it seems. I am gathering that there is NO soft roll up tonneau that works with the power tailgate. In some reviews, people have 'loosened' something up and jimmy rigged it perhaps to allow the tailgate to work. If thats the case I am thinking of just getting a cheaper cover. Why spend more if it does not work with the tailgate? I am looking at the TYGER T1 (cheapest out there) or the Gator SR1. Thought I would check to see if anyone has found a product that works with the power tailgate out of the box?
Is this an issue with the 6.2 or just the 5.3L oil cooler lines?
Sorry to everyone that is dealing with this. I cannot imagine going through this issue after spending $50k on a new truck. This has been around for a while now. The cause is crimping of an oil cooler line. Isn't there an easy preventative fix for that which we can make that has been recommended? Or do the rest of us just wait and hope it doesn't happen?
Did you convince yourself to go 3.0 in the back instead of 2.5? Just wondering decision process. I know 3.0 obviously should perform better. Also, are you tuning the shocks yourself? Wondering how hard that is or if its best to get a shock tuning pro to set it up. Great build.
What is the beef with DFM/AFM? I drive my truck and don’t notice anything. It doesn’t even tell you how many cylinders are working at any given time. The ONLY reason I have heard that makes sense to me is it could be trouble long term. There’s a plate with solenoids that are pressurized off of oil pressure. If the solenoids fail or there’s an issue with oil pressure, well there you go- a good way to burn off a cylinder or head..block..whatever. It’s just one more part in the system that can go wrong in a mechanical system. When this was explained to me, I can see why you’d want to disable it. Now with regard to the aftermarket solutions to disable- is this controlled by software or is a physical mod required that voids warranty? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I bought my truck a year ago and saw this whole issue unfold in a few threads, I always told myself if it ever happened to me- I would let it fry. That had to be the way to go. Under warranty anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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