175vTrailbossLT

The Trailboss comes with a stock 2" block from factory. If I buy the 0-1" 5100 Bilsteins, and replace the stock blocks with 1" aftermarket blocks, that should lower the rear of the truck a tad right?

How do we know if we have the ‘new’ oil cooler lines installed or not?

Is there a part number on these new cooler lines or how do we know if our trucks have the new ones already on from factory?

Such a clean DD. I am going this direction. Contemplating Billet UCAs. What is your tire size here? 285/75?

I read the long threads about this when I got my 2019 new 2 years ago. Decided to forget about it and not sweat it. Warranty for 3 years plus I got the extended 5 year on top of that so f it. 30k mi now. I had 1 really bad experience witht the transmission. Felt like someone crashed into me it jerked so hard. Other than that it for sure does NOT have a smooth transition from P to D. If you are parked with foot on brake and make the witch to D, it definitely 'bounces'. My old 2011 6 speed is smooth as butter and never does that.

20k miles here LT Trailboss with stock Duratecs. No mods to truck at all. Last couple thousand miles there is a pretty intense road hum/noise at 60-65 mph. Driving me nuts and cannot tell when it started or if I just noticed it. Passenger even asks 'what is that noise?". Its like an intense road hum. Part of me hopes its as simple as the tires but I don't want to buy new ones right now. Frustrating. I'd hate to replace tires and the Noise is still there.

I’ll bite. I have more of a whirring/whining noise at 60-65mph. Getting annoying. Does not sound like a whistle or high pitched at all. My brother say it sounds like the front differential but I’m in 2wd. Or heavy mud terrain tire sound. Anyone else? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you get just the 10” sub or the option with the amp kit? Edit: wait if I already have the Bose, I don’t need the amp kit version right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys- are you installing this sub in a truck with or without Bose? I have Bose but would like a little more bass. Too much bass comes through the speakers currently.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lots of similar experiences. I stopped thinking about it. Had truck almost 2 years now (2019). Sometimes - same as you out of driveway or initial acceleration from parked spot..SLAMS into second with a big Ass jerk. Happens every couple months and worse if I go from R to D. I just shift slowly now.m and it’s not as bad. I don’t care if it breaks it’s covered under warranty. But I have not read of any catastrophic transmissions anyway. Just a messed up issue. If it starts to really bother me I’ll sell it after 3 years and get the 10 speed. It’s BS..everything is so expensive these days and quality sucks. Across the board with everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys. Does anyone have any real world examples of a 1/2ton truck towing another 1/2 Ton truck? I have a 2019 trail boss LT 5.3L v8. Want to see if I can tow my 2011 silverado extended cab also with 5.3. I ran some numbers and I am coming up with a technical “yea” I could do it. But I’m planning on a 6 hour drive over the grapevine in CA (big elevation changes). I used an online calculator and had to input a couple variables like - guessed that the trailer would have GVWR of 10,000lb (pj trailer buggy hauler model) and that the trailers “cargo weight” is simply the curb weight of the 2011 truck being towed which I put in as 5500 lbs. Here is the trailer sticker from my truck. I’m debating renting a 3/4 ton truck from enterprise instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s your process to budget for a build like this? In terms of talking to various shops for example for a cab cage. They are all so busy right now like you said. I think they get a lot of tire kickers so are not that great at quoting work (my experience). Do you find that’s the case or has it not been so bad dealing with the shops and talking to them as you make a decision who to go with? And maybe more specifically what factors do you take when selecting a fabricator? I can’t imagine sending my 4 year old truck off to get town down for a cage haha. Great build though love following this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@AZ_RADO_RNR sweet! you plan on rocking this set up with the DK bed cage and shocks for now or you still snowballing this bad boy?

Good call IMO- that’s exactly why I got the rounded one. Couldn’t find a pic with two bikes in mine but it’s great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got my new soft roll up gator ETX. Easy install. Thought this would work best with dirt bikes in the bed up against the cab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1, and with muffler delete, what RPM's do you hear it, and what is it like cruising at 65-75? Thats my fear. I want a system where I don't hear anything for long drives ! @Shazbotthegreat

Thanks! I think I have the same. Sorry when I said 'power tailgate" I only meant the auto 'down/open' button from the FOB or the clicker in the center console. Thats what I have - it is not powered back up closed. So when you click the FOB to open the tailgate, it will fold open no problem? Thats what I am looking for. I have read many of them 'click' to de-latch but get caught and won't open.

Title says it all! Tried searching the many tonneau cover threads but there is no easy answer it seems. I am gathering that there is NO soft roll up tonneau that works with the power tailgate. In some reviews, people have 'loosened' something up and jimmy rigged it perhaps to allow the tailgate to work. If thats the case I am thinking of just getting a cheaper cover. Why spend more if it does not work with the tailgate? I am looking at the TYGER T1 (cheapest out there) or the Gator SR1. Thought I would check to see if anyone has found a product that works with the power tailgate out of the box?

12k miles in mine and I think its just a crappy 8 speed

Is this an issue with the 6.2 or just the 5.3L oil cooler lines?

Sorry to everyone that is dealing with this. I cannot imagine going through this issue after spending $50k on a new truck. This has been around for a while now. The cause is crimping of an oil cooler line. Isn't there an easy preventative fix for that which we can make that has been recommended? Or do the rest of us just wait and hope it doesn't happen?

Did you convince yourself to go 3.0 in the back instead of 2.5? Just wondering decision process. I know 3.0 obviously should perform better. Also, are you tuning the shocks yourself? Wondering how hard that is or if its best to get a shock tuning pro to set it up. Great build.

Great response thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the beef with DFM/AFM? I drive my truck and don’t notice anything. It doesn’t even tell you how many cylinders are working at any given time. The ONLY reason I have heard that makes sense to me is it could be trouble long term. There’s a plate with solenoids that are pressurized off of oil pressure. If the solenoids fail or there’s an issue with oil pressure, well there you go- a good way to burn off a cylinder or head..block..whatever. It’s just one more part in the system that can go wrong in a mechanical system. When this was explained to me, I can see why you’d want to disable it. Now with regard to the aftermarket solutions to disable- is this controlled by software or is a physical mod required that voids warranty? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I swear I have searched and Googled but haven't found a straight forward way to simply look up TSB's for my VIN. Is there a secret to this? I am going to the dealer for recalls but I want to take with me a print out of any TSB's tied to my VIN also.