Greyhound6.2

A bit of a long story, they had it in and out of the shop for nearly 2 months shotgunning parts, torque converter, pump, partial rebuild of the "front of the transmission" then replaced transfer case, then replaced the whole transmission, Essentially there is a problem with the idler gear going bad in the 10 speeds and then it starts digging in to the case and destroying bearings and then the pump spits metal everywhere and bad things happen.... decent explanation linked. https://www.tiktok.com/@romanobrythonicmindset/video/7208405234958257451

My 20' 6.2/10 speed has been up at the dealer for a month now while they work on the transmission 31K miles on it. I no longer trust the longevity of this truck it will be gone before it is out of warranty

also 6.2 10 speed the whining noise in mine ended up being the torque converter going bad, mine has been in the shop almost all month while they swap parts around trying to get it right.....

Back at the shop now they are saying the transfer case is bad and that is the new source of the clicking noise in 1st and 2nd gear.

good luck Mine has been in the shop almost all month waiting on parts dealer is on their 3rd try shotgunning parts at it

the service guy i talked to told me they were going to replace it yet didn't

I have a 6.2 10 speed max tow Sierra 1500 with 30K miles on it. My transmission problems started with a high-pitched whine that I took the truck in to the dealer to diagnose. The dealer had it from 9-7 to 9-23 and found issues with the torque converter said there were "allot" of metal shavings in the pan, they replaced the torque converter, pump, cover and a few other things in the transmission. Now that I have it back it is making a knocking/ratcheting noise while in 1st gear but stops in any other gear. Also, I feel a mild shake/shudder at highway speed now, the truck doesn't shake beyond the normal road surface vibration, I don't feel anything in the steering wheel, or with my hand on the dash, it feels like my seat and console are shaking. The dealer said to "break it in for 500-1K miles" and it may be a little noisier and shift harder while breaking in. My question is should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer asap or let it go and see how it does? also questioning the long-term reliability of this transmission in the future.

I have a 6.2 W/max tow and routinely tow 6K- 7K lbs it does it fine, plenty of power plenty of braking power assuming functional trailer brakes. I do run the Anderson WDH as well as airbags, typically WDH on enclosed trailer and bags on equipment trailer. Now all that being said my truck did just eat the transmission at a little over 30K miles probably 20+ of that towing.....SO.....use caution

Well apparently after the dealer having the truck 6 days "finally" dropped the pan on the transmission and told me they found "allot" of metal shavings in the pan so they are replacing the torque converter and pump.....Call me crazy but I was under the impression that when metal shavings were present it was time to rebuild or replace the tranny as all the bearings and seals or any tight fitting parts have been contaminated with "liquid sand paper" oh and....still no loaner/rental car....and my truck is my only vehicle....so why exactly did I buy a new truck that was supposed to be mechanically trouble free for years???

I have a 6.2 with the 10 speed and developed a gear whine, it has run fine no CEL and shifts fine no problems just high pitched whine, dealer wants to put a new transmission in it waiting to hear back tomorrow on timeframe. how long have you guys had to wait to get a new transmission?

are you going wireless? or hardwired connection? I have noticed a difference between sound quality between the 2

I have a 6.2 NHT and have pulled up to 7500lbs it does great, but you will probably want to run a sway WDH hitch and/or airbags the rear springs allow allot of squat. I used to run the WDH with my enclosed trailer now I just run bags with a 24' equipment trailer. I have done the same trip from STL to Utah with my truck and my buddy's gas 2021 silverado 2500, both towing essentially the same trailer loaded with a similar amount of weight. They both tow great I feel mine with the 6.2 does better up the mountains and feel like the power is better managed by the 10 speed, his 2500 does better downhill and has a much better "engine breaking assist" than mine.

I have had the trailer app not start a few times, I just get a blank black screen when I go to that screen. probably works fine 95% of the time

A bit of a delay I finally got it up to the dealer to look at they have not 100% diagnosed the issue but are leaning towards either the torque converter or the entire transmission being replaced. on Day 4 now of having no vehicle to drive as the dealer is out of loaner cars....

that is exactly what it sounds like

Ok so not a common issue then?

My 20 Sierra 6.2 has developed an engine whine, if anyone is familiar with "alternator whine" in the car audio world it pretty much sounds like that only outside in the engine bay, I could also describe it as the noise from an electric RC toy car (high pitch squeal) it is RPM dependent once warmed up and at idle it quiets down and is mildly audible but picks up quickly with the RPM's. any ideas what this could be?

I have been kicking around trying to do that curious if I can cut the brake circuit going to the trailer or dummy it out with a fake load and replace the trailer brake feed with the aftermarket controller output......nothing is ever that easy though I would want the stock trailer app to still work though I like the integrated TPMS reading on the trailer tires

I have the same problem, the integrated brake controller on these trucks just plain suck. My previous tow vehicle a Grand Cherokee would lock the trailer brakes up easily if the gain was over 7 (aftermarket controller). back to back previous tow vehicle gain on 6 vs current 20 sierra with the gain on 10 the previous vehicle stops better/harder on the same tandem axle 6Klb trailer. I have also tried with my buddies 21 silverado 2500 and his stops just as poorly as my 20 1500 . I have been able to get better stopping power by adjusting the trailer brakes manually to the point they drag a little more than they really should to get reasonable brake force at a moderate gain of 7. also Just bought a brand new trailer zero miles on it and the brakes still suck and needed manual adjustment.....BTW dexter auto adjusting brakes rarely actually do much in the way of auto adjusting. You can check the current draw of the trailer brakes they should be somewhere near 3 amps at 12V per brake magnet but I doubt that is the issue.

just my observation on my sierra SLT the forward light is good and has reasonable depth, however the side spill could be better i find myself wanting more side spill even with the fogs on, lighting on my previous Grand Cherokee (HID) was far superior

I saw a comment recently about putting the trans in L and limiting the gears to L9 to disable the DFM, I have been doing that for a couple weeks now I have no way of knowing if it actually disables the DFM but it does idle smoother being in L9. in normal D (auto stop disabled) when I come to a stop light the engine almost hesitates a bit and goes to slightly "rough idle" It has not done this since I started playing in L9

thanks for that link, I need a can for touch up

Not a fan of the integrated brake controller, my 6K lbs trailer stops better with my grand cherokee than it does with my truck, gain on the GC 6, gain on the truck 10. I am quite disappointed the GC stops better and shorter distance every time even on panic pedal mashing.

On my 20 sierra I believe there is a setting to fold and unfold the mirrors when you go in and out of park.

the paint is baked on in the factory and is as cured as it will ever get, wax it day one you are fine. if you have had paint repairs at a dealer or auto body shop then those need to wait a while before wax