Everything posted by Keith_Schumaker
I had a few funny thing happen when pulling out in my 21. Mostly involving when I am sitting on a hill and I start on the gas pedal before I let off the brake, the antilock brake system goes nuts and you hear the typical abs grinding noise as soon as the truck starts moving. My truck also went nuts the one morning when I had to use the rumble strips for a bit because a tractor trailer wasn't paying too much attention to what he was doing. The dash looked like a christmas tree with all the traction control and abs lights on and it wouldn't let me use cruise control until I shut the truck off. I think GM puts the warning there to cover up their electrical gremlins.
I used to get the free ones when I bought a vehicle but I have seen the "lube techs" most dealerships let practice on our cars, and there is no way I am letting some 16 year old kid change the oil on my $60k truck. I just don't trust them, and with the preferred customer discount with amsoil a 2.5 gallon jug is only $63.75 and their synthetic fiber filter is $15.25. It doesn't cost that much and I have access to a lift, so I get all the reassurances that I greased all the fittings and checked for worn parts. I feel it is more peace of mind for me while towing my 17k fifth wheel down the road knowing exactly what is under my truck and what condition it is in.
I have a drw, but it has the same running gear so it should have the same power. My camper is 17k and I am able to keep it at 65 on 5-6% grades, I haven't tried 80 but I wouldn't doubt that it would be able to as it doesn't struggle at all at 65 even if I have to accelerate a bit to get around a truck on a hill.
I am running the sulastic shackles on my 3500 DRW and it makes it a lot more comfortable empty. I am still looking for more improvement, mostly because I have the snowplow/camper torsion bars up front. I would love to swap those to the regular bars and I am thinking about bilstiens, hence the reason I am looking at this thread. But I would still recommend the sulastic shackles, they really do help.
I got it from ebay, I will never order from etrailer again as it took 2 weeks before they even thought about shipping some keys for my rv that they had in stock it took 18 days to get something that only took 2 days to get from there to here. If I bought it again I would buy directly from bak industries. They say it will ship the next day for free and the prices are about the same, they even have a best price guarantee so if etrailers price was better I would assume they would match it.
I have the backflip f1 because I ordered the mx4 and it didn't come with the side rails so they upgraded me for free. They are both 5 panel covers and they just barely do not interfere with the rearview mirror camera when pressed against the rear glass but I would think it would probably interfere with a camera that points more downward. Getting you these pictures also reminded me of something too, the last piece is heavy as s*** trying to open it from the ground. I am sure that my wife would not be able to, she would have to climb in the bed to open the cover fully. If you have any other questions let me know.
For 21 the wt got steering wheel audio controls which was the only thing holding me back from a prior year wt. I got my cc duramax dually that had every option you could get in the wt model for $54,000 and the closest comparable lt at the time with all incentives was $61,000 and it still didn't have some of the options I was looking for if I went to an lt. I use it as a camper hauler and would still do it again. The rubber floor is so much better for keeping clean with my gravel driveway and it has all the options you would have gotten on an lt back in 2015.
Watch pulling out of parking lots with steep aprons, I had a 8" drop on my f350 which was about 1" higher than my chevy and it would rub quite often leaving my local dunkin donuts. It was a 2.5" shank that I bought to replace the shank on my w/d hitch so I just cut about 1" off the bottom and it wouldn't rub anymore. Just remember the drop hitch isn't measured from top to bottom of hitch it is measured from top to bottom of ball. My 6" weigh safe hitch with the 2.5 shank is 9" from top of hitch to the lowest point of the hitch, so a 10" would probably be 13" or so which would only leave about 10" ground clearance 4 feet behind your axle which isn't much.
I figure all trucks are a little different so I'll post mine up too. I have a Chevrolet 3500 drw w/t with the Sulastic shackles which raised the rear at the wheel wells 1/4" when I measured. My hitch is 23" from the ground to the top. Going back to every truck is different though, my last one was a 2018 f350 and one day at a new job site I parked next to another f350. I was about 2" lower in the front and 1" in the rear. He had aftermarket wheels and tires on his so I thought he just had a level kit and bigger tires. You should have heard how upset he got when I asked where he got his level kit, here he had a 6" lift kit on his just to get up to where mine sat from factory. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Has anyone else had any tpms sensor issues? My truck was sitting for 3 days and when I fired it up it was complaining that 5 of my 6 tires were at 32 psi exactly and one was at the normal 70 psi. I looked out the door and none of the tires looked flat so I started driving, within 15 feet the tires were all reading normal. Are the sensors losing charge that quickly? My f-350 would sit for a week or 2 and not have an issue with the sensors.
Looks great, at least the dealer didn't string you along for 3 months like mine did. I lucked out and found something similar to what I ordered and it was only an hour and a half away. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Does anyone else's backup camera seem washed out and have faded horizontal lines across it? I am thinking that mine has issues but want to make sure before I take it in that it isn't just normal and I'm being too picky. The mirror camera is great and crystal clear its just the one in the dash, mine is the 7" wt model in case that makes a difference.
I loved the ranch magnum I had on my ram a few years ago. It is a fiberglass cap with the side tool boxes which were great for golf clubs or any other items you may not want damaged rolling around the bed. The only downfall to it (for my wife anyways) is that there are no windows, but I am used to driving vehicles that have no back window. Once we upgraded trucks I was planning on a 5th wheel so we went with the backflip f1, I see what you are saying with the fitment issues but I lucked out and at least mine is dry. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Get the right led lights. The ones with the led chips in the center on the 2 sides like the beam tech, not the ones that have led chips all around them on 3 or 4 sides or have the sides further apart and not really thin. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Those are the ones in my 21 3500 drw and they work great. The beam pattern is right so you don't get flashed constantly and it doesn't blind other people. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
I know coming when using other tuners on other vehicles you had to re learn the trans. This normally involved driving at 25% throttle up to speed then stop a few times, then the same at 50% and 75% before you hit full throttle. Reading about the derringer it doesn't seem that it is supposedly needed but I would try it, that is the way I had to do all of my other tuned trucks.
I have noticed that my 21 3500 drw which doesn't have the shutters warms up in half the time my 18 f350 did. I think the chevy is a better winter truck to begin with, I don't think I will be putting the winter front on unless the highs for the day were in the negatives. If I had the shutters I probably wouldn't even do it then. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Keith_Schumaker replied to Jfg1300's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)Mine says 210 on the dash but the reading over obd2 with torque reads about 184 when the dash says 210 so the gauge on the dash is probably a dummy gauge. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
I know it doesn't "program" but it updates, and with tech line they add what you want to your vin and you flash an update to the computer. At least that is what I am reading, not too sure. And as another user stated I want actual gm codes added which are available at the dealer which they could add, I would just have to add the modules like the remote start fobs and the cargo lights then go to the dealer for the re-flash. That wams programmer looks promising but they have to add everything you want and it would be $400, I think the dealer might be cheaper than that. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Does anyone have any experience with GM's GDS2 or know of any program like ALPHAobd for chrysler or FORscan for Ford that would work on GM vehicles? I was looking at a few things I want to do to my truck and would have a lot of programming for the dealer to do and would rather just do it myself because my trust in dealerships is about non existent. I want to add the high idle, the rear cargo lights and remote start and I am figuring I can do it with a J2534 scanner and GDS2 software but I want to make sure before I throw $150 away and still have to go to the dealer. Does anyone have any experience with this software or have it at work that they would be able to browse it for a few minutes? Coming from a F-350 I miss FORscan, I used to be able to change almost anything in the system right from my laptop. I could change the temperature of the heated steering wheel, turn seat belt chimes off, change how many times the turn signals would flash if you bumped them, add DPF% screen and much more. I have searched high and low and can't find a similar program for gm though.
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