Another JR

I suspect your techs know more about this than I do.

Whether it senses a trailer shouldn’t affect whether power is supplied via the 7 pin connector. The fact that it does not sense a trailer (which occurs when you connect to the running light pin), and does not have 12 volts on the power pin, makes me suspect one of your trailer harness connectors is not connected. If it was just lack of power I’d say check the connection at the battery fuse block. There are a couple of places where the trailer harness has connectors. You want to check behind the left taillight first.

Jettech says that, but you know he’s spending his evenings on the 2024 configuration site, building that new truck he lusts after, while at the same time denying his new truck dreams.

April 2021 L8T here. At my oil changes at roughly 3750 and 7500 miles, the oil level was still in the top 1/4 of the dipstick hashmarks. I do not seem to be having significant oil consumption.

I don’t know the wiring on your trailer, obviously, but yes, any convenient and safe place you can disconnect that circuit path does the job.

Edit: I wasn’t paying attention and hadn’t seen this was answered on a second page.

Have you tried laying on the ground underneath that area while someone else does the side to side shake you described? You might be able to pinpoint the source of the noise.

Clunk from steering? Suspension? Transmission? Rear differential? Other?

Encouragement. Encouragement is also important. Let’s all encourage Jettech to go ahead and just order that new truck!

You could do that, but wouldn’t it be preferable to just not connect to the 7 pin connector’s hot 12 volt pin on the trailer side of the connector? That way the truck 7 pin remains in the standard configuration and you use your separate heavy gage charging connection for the campers or trailers that need it. That’s how I’m using mine.

Yes there was a set of updates they did, including torque converter changes, but I can’t remember where I read about it.

My truck has two batteries, and I wired the camper to the main starting battery, not the auxiliary battery (planning to use the aux battery for an on board air compressor eventually). The main battery is on the passenger side and has a battery fuse block mounted on top of it. The fuse block from the factory had an unused 80 amp fuse and post, so I connected the 6 awg positive wire to that. It’s the wire with the red shrink tube at the lug. I connected the negative wire to a nearby body ground stud that was connected to the battery.

That’s exactly what I tried, including giving them the TSB number to look up. They said they couldn’t reproduce it and couldn’t do it as a warranty item. I appealed to the GM technical ombudsman or whatever they are called, and after discussing it with the dealer they supported the dealer and refused. I told the dealer I’d just do it myself.

Also, this good news - it means Jettech’s new truck will come relatively fast once he orders it!

Emotionally prepare yourself for the additional wait from shipping delays. Mine took a few weeks to get to the dealer after it was shown as built. (This was back in March/April 2021.)

I know this thread is a few months old, but someone may benefit from the answer in the future. I finally remembered to look at the spare clearance when I crawled under to disconnect my camper camera. I have the SLT SRW stock michelin 275/70-18 spare, and it has about an inch clearance to the exhaust heat shield, and just under an inch clearance on the opposite side from where it would touch a frame cross member that angles down. So the 3/4 inch larger diameter full size spare for the optional 20 inch wheels and tires should fit with enough clearance that the tire can still be 1/2” away from the heat shield.

No cell service needed. Navigation database is on board and gps locates you.

Another data point: my April 2021 truck shifts into 6th in tow/haul mode. As someone said above, empty truck on level ground accelerating to 60 and sitting there it stays in 5th. Move up to about 65 and it goes into 6th. When I backed down to 60 it stayed in 6th. All of this was on level road.

https://gmauthority.com/blog/gm-order-tracking/gm-order-event-codes-and-definitions/

Water in the switch on the tailgate?

Did you search on “multipro tailgate removal.”

Excellent point jettech that you don’t need a thermostat to ensure a minimum operating temp when the heat sink temperature (radiator temperature) does that for you. These trucks have a separate oil cooler, which I suspect drove the decision to include a thermostat to ensure the system warms up to a minimum temperature. I wonder if the original 195F was just trying to replicate a system that uses the engine radiator as the heat sink.

I don’t think eliminating the thermostat is a good idea other than maybe for truck that is always operated in a hot environment. You want the operating temperature to warm up to a stable temperature and design around that. I still am curious why GM engineers originally decided they wanted that nominal temperature up at 195F. Was it to improve fuel economy by having the ATF slightly less viscous? Another reason? They obviously later decided the 153F was a better compromise, but what was the thinking behind the original decision? Anybody know or care to speculate?