Another JR

That is typical. The same question was asked before and confirmed by several others that was typical, and my truck is the same.

That’s what I have read, yes. The angled crimp connections are specific to GMs design. You could replace a fuse yourself, but it seems the GM intent is to replace the whole unit if one fuse is burned out.

Remember that, while your trailer may be balanced so the tongue weight is only 1000 lbs., the mass that is connected to your hitch is much greater, and your shocks are trying to damp the bouncing of the truck mass plus the effective vertical inertia of the trailer at the hitch. Shocks that are stiff enough to heavily damp that that condition are going to be overly stiff when not towing. It’s a compromise. One thing than can help is getting weight in the trailer as close to the trailer axles as possible to reduce the rotational inertia of the trailer. This has the added benefit of reducing the rotational inertia about the vertical axis, which will reduce the potential for sway. There may not be much you can do to affect the weight distribution in a travel trailer, though.

Did you look on the inside of the fuse block cover? I can’t remember if there is a diagram or list but there may be one there.

A retrofit kit with the knee panel the switches mount in is worth more than the kits without the panel that came with the trucks where the kit option was ordered with the truck. That’s what I ordered, and the switches were already installed, so no additional panel was supplied. If you check ebay to find an asking price make sure you are looking at kits with panels. I suspect the 175 to 200 people were giving you in the previous thread was about right. You just need to connect with a buyer who needs one, and they are certainly out there.

https://www.tsbsearch.com/Chevrolet/PIE0604

Hi Karnut. Could you explain a little more? I know that if you select an L level that would cause exceedance of a rev limit it won’t downshift, but are you talking about an additional feature or behavior? Thanks

Correct. It’s not a manual mode. It is a selectable top gear mode. The transmission will shift normally except it won’t upshift beyond your selection. It can be used in normal or tow/haul mode.

That’s not how the transmission works in “L.” The transmission shifts normally otherwise but will not upshift beyond the selected gear. For example, in L4, it will use 1, 2, 3, and 4, but won’t shift to 5 and 6.

I think i remember reading that about the diesel.

In Washington state it is quite a bit less expensive to register a truck over 10k GVWR. My tabs cost about $100 to renew this year. A late year 2500 would have been $600 I expect.

I can’t imagine they have different transmission programming for 2500 vs 3500.

Here are my weight stickers. 21 GMC 3500hd cclb srw slt Adjusting my scale weights to back out the bed mat and put the tailgate on, with full fuel and 200 lb driver: 4440 front, 3300 rear. Note: my sticker weight ratings reflect the front camper springs option

My 3500hd cclb srw slt with dual batteries, full tank, 200 lbs in the driver seat, 60 lb rubber mat in the bed, and minus the 75 lb tailgate has a front axle weight of 4440 and a rear axle weight of 3260 per a local certified truck scale.

No problem. Here is a link to the service bulletin describing the issue and showing what’s affected. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf

My 2021 was built in the March/April timeframe in 2021. They switched to the lower temp thermostat a month or two after that. Your 2022 has the lower temp thermostat.

Yeah, when I test drove multiple trucks prior to ordering my 2021 3500hd, it was clear that the 20 inch optional wheels and tires gave a bit rougher ride. They did make the truck corner like a giant sports car. I ordered the 18s for a better ride and more sidewall for airing down. I’m very happy with the base SLT 18 inch wheels and Michelin tires.

It’s frustrating that the dealers are inconsistent on doing the thermostat sb. Mine wouldn’t do it and the GM tech support/warranty people backed them up and said no.

When you open the door of the shut down truck do you hear the tank fuel pump run for a second or two?

It’s really sad, but I don’t trust my dealer to properly change oil or rotate tires because as said above the personnel used are questionable. I’ve had loose plugs, loose filters, messy jobs done, and lost hub covers (which are expensive). Bigger stuff I’m forced to gamble, but oil changes and rotations I’d rather do myself. The risk of catastrophic error is high and the people doing the work are questionable.

I did not like the suspension dynamics with the overly stiff front end from my 5600 lb rating camper pkg springs. Going over dips at highway speed, even when empty, the front was stiffer than the rear and the front of the truck would pitch up. It was even worse with my 2000 lb pop up camper installed (50% of payload rating, all but 100 lbs on the rear axle, gives the truck a 50/50 weight distribution front to rear). With the 5200 lb springs installed the rear is stiffer than the front when unloaded, and with the camper the front and rear response is well matched and the truck doesn’t pitch up going over highway dips.

I can tell you from experience the front torsion springs for the camper package and snow plow package make a big difference in stiffness and in front/rear response balance. If you don’t need the heavier springs, change them out for the basic ones for your truck configuration. I did it on mine and it was a big improvement. 2 hours and $600.

Also check the connections between the large battery negative wires and the truck body and engine. I think there have been issues with those negative connections talked about from that period.

It’s a Phoenix pop up. See phoenixpopup.com.