Another JR

Maybe the OP could post a picture of the truck and trailer combination. Maybe he has a very high aerodynamic drag configuration - like a bumper pull trailer with large frontal area and an open truck bed.

I have Michelins of various types on four vehicles, and have bought well over a dozen sets over the years, and have been very satisfied with them. That video, though, was pretty lame. The equivalent ad slogan would be “Michelin - It’s a Tire!”

You will want to run 6 awg positive and negative wires for charging rather than relying on the trailer harness ground or body connection via the hitch. All I had connected to the trailer connector was the marker lamps and the truck detected it as a trailer. You could splice into all the light circuits to avoid that but If it was me I wouldn’t want to alter the truck wiring that much. If you decide to use the trailer circuits, Curt makes harnesses that just insert into the connection at the bumper or 5th wheel connector. They make them in 7 and 10 foot lengths. Curt 56000, 56072

I have a slide-in camper that is bed length and does not hide the truck tail lights. I initially ran my camper’s clearance lights from the trailer harness using a splitter, but very quickly decided I did not like the effects of the truck detecting the camper as a trailer (defeating the rear park assist). I switched to running those lights off of a splice into the harness for the left rear fender marker lamp. If I decide to return it to factory configuration I just need to replace a two foot long two wire harness. If your camper hides the tail lights you probably want to use the trailer harness for the light connections to the camper despite the truck seeing it as a trailer. The rear park assist is useless in that case anyway. The trailer harness battery charging wire is only 10 awg. That’s fine for maintaining the charge on a brake system safety battery, but for charging large camper batteries at a high current, you probably will want to run separate large fused cables from the truck battery to the camper. How large depends on your power system. I used 6 awg to a Victron Orion 30 amp dc to dc charger located in the camper battery compartment. I have a 200 ah lithium battery in the camper. People running lead acid batteries often direct connect the batteries to the truck via an isolator with much larger wires. I’m happy to help if you have more electrical questions, but I’ll stop now in case I’m telling you stuff you already know.

The secret double push method nwstever has revealed is carefully hidden in plain sight on page 42 of the owners manual. I hadn’t picked up on it either until I saw this thread and looked at the manual. The manual says: Windows Express Movement All windows can be opened without holding the window switch. Press the switch down fully and quickly release to express open the window. If equipped, pull the window switch up fully and quickly release to express close the window. Briefly press or pull the window switch in the same direction to stop that window’s express movement.

If you have the key fob close by you can open the tailgate on the locked truck, right?

Where in the manual did you find a discussion of the high idle option? I swear I remember seeing it there a year ago when I received the truck, but I couldn’t find it when I looked the other day. Thanks

From what I recall reading, the shutoff function operates regardless of whether you are in normal or high idle. Sheath says the dealer can turn off the auto shutoff. You can also defeat the auto shutoff at normal idle by running in neutral, but I don’t like the idea of that. I don’t believe you can use high idle in neutral.

If your truck is a 2500 or 3500hd and your trailer is 3500 lbs, I would not use tow/haul mode. Won’t hurt if you do, but the shifting will be smoother in normal mode. Try it both ways, and see which you prefer.

There is a provision for manually opening the tailgate behind a panel on the inside surface of the tailgate, so you could eventually get it open, but it’s not quick to use it. Quickest way in the case of a dead battery would be to connect another 12v source.

The 15 minute shutoff is after a remote start if you don’t do the steps to extend it. If the car is actually on, the shutdown time is longer, but I can’t remember exactly how long and didn’t find it immediately in the manual.

Increases alternator output and increases cycle pressures and temperatures, which makes the extended running easier on the engine.

I’m pretty sure you can’t control it from the infotainment system.

Foot has to be OFF the brake pedal when you hit set.

Very good to know! Is this described in the owners manual? Which “tailgate button” does this? Main? Multiflex? Dash? Thanks

Just did a 3 plus hour highway drive with my 3500 hd gas with a Four Wheel Campers pop up slide in camper from Clallam Bay, WA, to Seattle, WA, which is sea level to sea level with a bunch of up and down 500 foot climbs, and the trip computer said 15.5 mpg at the end. Averaged around 65 mph. That’s my best yet with the camper!

Don’t know the thread size but just wanted to make sure you noticed the more easily accessible large ground studs outboard of the fuse box on the left side. I used one of them for the supply to my 30 amp dc to dc converter.

This forum is for 2020 and newer trucks, so you might get people with more direct experience with your truck type in a different forum. The first i would suggest is to check for any electrical connections not reconnected. Did you disturb the fuel system?

A properly designed stability control system should be tolerant of very slight differences in tire diameter and should not activate due to that.

The frame coating condition and the surface rust on those drive train components is normal. In my experience 8.5 quarts in the L8T engine could be a slight overfill. Mine takes exactly 8 quarts to be at the full mark with oil and filter change after letting it drain to very slow drips.

The bulletin may have ABS event listed to lead techs diagnosing events to the SB even if they initially think it’s brake related. The people who are having these events should report them to NHTSA. They have an on line reporting page.

I have had mine off and back on three times now. I take it off when my popup slide in truck camper is on. I made a padded storage crate for it so it doesn’t get damaged sitting in the garage. I fully agree it is a two strong person job, ESPECIALLY the first time you take it off. The left side torsion hinge is very tight due to a plastic coating on the mating parts. It took me and my strong adult son 15 minutes of wrestling it to get it off, and when it finally lets go it’s sudden, so be prepared to avoid dinging the truck or tailgate. Some people say to use a tool to pry it off, but no way was a prying tool getting near my new truck. We just applied tension with our arms and moved the right side up and down slightly until it finally came off. It was quite a workout for me lifting the right side up and down for that long. Subsequent times coming off were much easier. Putting it on is relatively easy, and my moderately strong adult daughter helped me with installation one of the times. There actually are two cables if you have a tailgate camera (I think all multipros do). There’s the large oval connector and a small FAKRA camera connector underneath between the spare and the bumper, and some cable ties that must be cut. There are videos on line showing the process. Don’t disconnect the large cable with the tailgate closed or you won’t be able to open it.

Regarding understanding the oil monitor reading: Are you sure the dealer reset the oil life monitor when they did the oil change at 1500 miles? Regarding whether to change the oil: I agree with NWStever that it’s time to change the oil. My basis for that is a little different, although R’ing TFM is never a bad idea. I follow the manual as a minimum. I’ve had my new truck 14 months and have 5000 miles on it, so I’m a similar low-miles user right now. I like to change the oil at least once a year no matter the miles, so for now I decided just to do it every 3750 miles so that every other oil change is also a 7500 mile tire rotation and it gets changed a little more often than once a year, and so that I’m conservative regarding additive life. The monitor was still at over 30% when I changed it at 3750 miles.

You are towing a very heavy load with huge frontal area. For now, during the few extra minutes those climbs take, you can think about why the gas engine is the better choice for you at all other times, and remember that, if you bought a diesel, there’s a decent chance you’d be stopped on the side if the road or in the shop waiting for parts that day instead of climbing at 70 mph. My neighbor’s 2021 Duramax has been at the dealer nearly 1/4 of the year since he took delivery, and has stranded him twice.

Maybe the programming is downshifting to reduce exhaust temperature for emissions or head cooling reasons?