Another JR

Those appear to be FAKRA connectors, which are used for camera signals. I would imagine the black tipped one is for a tailgate camera (because it’s the same color as my tailgate camera connector), and the other is for a trailer camera. FAKRA connectors are keyed and color coded to prevent cross wiring, so if you decide to order connecting wires make sure you understand the keying scheme.

No, I’m pretty sure he’s right. The towing table you had clearly was showing DRW capacity. An SRW 3500 is not rated to tow a 35,000 lb fifth wheel - that’s the DRW number.

Yes I believe the shark fin is included in the overall height spec. Also, my truck is slightly below the height spec, but that may be because I measured with a full gas tank. The shark fin is mounted on the front driver’s corner of the roof, which is not the highest part of the roof on my crew cab (no sun roof). The high point is in the center about even with the back edge of the front doors. The shark fin tip is about the same height as the high point in the middle if the roof, not more than 1/4” taller from my measurements. All of my measurements above have a little margin in them to cover any measurement error. From what you describe you should be ok and will have an inch plus of clearance. You get used to it. My camper’s tallest vent clears my barn door opening by about an inch. You just drive dead slow every time to avoid any bounce.

There was a thread just a few weeks ago on exactly this issue and a few of us posted measurements. The shark fin is not more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch taller than the highest spot on the cab roof when the truck is unloaded. As you load the bed and the rear settles, the cab high point drops more than the shark fin, but the fin doesn’t move up. I have a GMC 3500hd SRW CCLB SLT gas with the 18 inch wheels and stock tires. Unloaded my truck is definitely slightly less than 80.5 inches tall in overall height including the shark fin. The 20 inch wheels and associated stock tires would make it about 1/2 inch taller.

Sounds like it’s leaking at the engine end of the line and not the radiator end. I haven’t studied mine carefully, but in the past they designed those lines with quick connect fittings at the oil filter block for ease of factory assembly, and they were not optimized for leak proof longevity. I’ve had to replace them twice on my old truck, and I doubt the design has changed. The good news is that if it happens after warranty it’s a fairly easy DIY job. I only have 10 months and 4000 miles on my new truck, but no leaks so far for me.

I suspect they are more willing to buy it back these days because they can “inspect it” and then sell it used easily, possibly even making some money. Glad to hear they are at least trying to help you. When you earlier said they told you “nothing we can do,” I thought they were just refusing to do anything.” So from what you’ve heard and read this is unique to the AT4?

That sounds like a maybe a short circuit in wiring or more likely a connector as opposed to a sensor malfunction or software problem. Your dealer saying “nothing we can do” is a complete BS answer. You have a malfunction that is disabling your new truck. Take it to a different dealer if you can. If not, keep taking it to your dealer each time it happens and after three visits (or whatever your state law requires) start the lemon law process. Meanwhile try to get the GM ombudsman involved. My guess is GM will give direction to the dealer to try to avoid an obvious required-buyback case. Edit: take a video of what’s going on each time it happens so you can provide it to the dealer and GM.

Does the parking brake activate on its own when the transmission is not in park?

Hi CRApex. I guess I should have added “/sarcasm” at the end. I was just trying to offer a laugh this morning. Note that I have never actually posted “Shoulda bought the gasser” in any of those threads. I honestly have sympathy for anyone struggling with an issue with their very expensive new truck, and I agree high torque is awesome.

So many threads have had the diesel guys post, “Shoulda bought the diesel,” as though they are simultaneously giving us the benefit if their wisdom and their wit. I bought the gas engine because I wanted maximum reliability on the road, i don’t tow huge trailers, I didn’t want the extra maintenance costs of a diesel, I don’t like the noise and stink of a diesel, and I didn’t want to inflict on my neighbors at home and in camping situations the noise, stink, and extended idling of a diesel. I read all the threads on the troubleshooting and L5P forums talking about DPF issues on the road, early DPF replacements, DEF system failures causing on-road breakdowns, Allison transmission problems, and extended service visits waiting for parts, people complaining about regen stink, people complaining about DEF/exhaust stink (when I test drove a diesel that DEF stink was wafting off my clothing for the rest of the day). So I ask all you gas truck owners, how do I resist the urge to post, “shoulda bought the gasser,” in all those threads? Furthermore, when they respond, “Yeah, but, torque,” how do I resist responding, “My gas truck has more torque than your diesel when your truck is in limp mode, or out if action at the dealer waiting for parts.” Anyway, these are the thoughts I struggle with in the wee hours of a Tuesday morning, tongue planted firmly in cheek. Must we simply remain solemn, shake our heads, and say, “Those poor, poor people ... ,” like in Galaxy Quest, or can we begin to set things right in the universe by posting, “Shoulda bought the gasser,” in all those threads? Is there anyone out there who shares my struggle?

I’m wondering if someone can recommend a drop-in or close to drop-in replacement horn that is a bit louder and lower toned than the stock horn. If the stock horn is a one and a train horn is a ten, maybe about a three. It’s embarrassing watching people turn their heads looking for the Subaru when I hit the horn. Thanks

Size and weight are the big cons. Fine for open country but too big for forest roads. Heavy for sandy conditions unless you have huge tires, which are not what you want for highway towing. Not that I don’t love my truck.

Unplug all your non-oem lights and see if it still blows fuses. If it does, it’s the factory wiring that’s the problem.

Some tires show overlap of the sidewall layers, but it should be similar on all 4 tires. If you have one that’s significantly different I’d ask for them to replace it even though it’s probably just fine. If they refuse, maybe swap it with your spare if it worries you.

Have you discussed it with your dealer service dept? It could be normal, or it could be wrong tank, wrong sending unit, or wrong display software configuration. The dealer should be able to check all those things to diagnose it if they agree it’s not normal behavior. I would think it would be covered under the warranty.

The whole reason for the smaller tanks on some models is limited space (length) for the fuel and DEF tanks. Maybe someone with a 36 gallon diesel tank can measure the length of their tank and post it so you can compare. I can’t do it because I have a gas truck.

I finally looked at the back of the headlight assembly and easily found the vertical adjustment feature. You need either a long #1 phillips screwdriver or a long (about 5 inch long) 6 mm hex wrench. The mechanism turns easily. I did not readily see the horizontal adjustment feature. I didn’t look for it because I am only compensating for leveling my truck by installing a pop up slide-in camper.

There was a lot more influencing that test result than number of transmission gears.

There was a thread about a year ago where someone showed their installation project. Probably in this subforum.

Maybe call a dealer who shows one coming in similar to what you are considering and ask them to text you a picture of the weight rating sticker in the door jamb? Even though it may be a sold truck they probably would do that for you.

You can, and in fact that’s how the diesels are set up because it takes that much battery to crank them in cold conditions. The reason for the battery isolator on the gas trucks is to prevent discharge of your starting battery when you use the aux battery for some accessory while the truck is not running, but then allow charging of both batteries when the truck is running. I don’t have it installed yet, but I plan to use my aux battery to power an on-board air compressor.

My 2021 delivered in April connects fine and is stable with my iphone 8. In fact, once the phone is connected, it remains connected until the phone is 150 to 200 feet away. Maybe there is another Bluetooth device causing interference. Does it behave that way with a different iphone?

Constraint means the factory won’t accept the order with that configuration.

Are you talking about the marker lights on top of the cab? I thought they were required by the DOT because of the overall vehicle width.

I hadn’t thought about the sensing that triggers auto 4wd. However, just so you understand what auto 4wd does, I don’t think there is any ability to control torque sent to the front vs rear wheels. Auto 4wd simply commands the transfer case to go into 4wd when its logic detects a certain amount of slippage. I have owned a Yukon XL with auto 4wd for nearly 20 years. When I bought it they gave me a number of reasons for recommending that I not use it. I literally have never used it. I want to be in control of when I switch in and out of 4wd. I’ve always left my suspension stock other than shock replacements, so I have no experience to offer on lifting or leveling.