richard wysong

Did you check for any BCM codes?

I guess Maverick was serious when he said he was all done

Got a pic of this fuse? Sounds like something somebody added. Possible bad diode in the alternator? Try disconnecting the alternator wiring

it went up a little here, $2.71 and up on the hiway, lots of places $2.99, same in NH

Lots of GM trucks have a wider front axle than the rear

Yeah but it's good practice to wipe the sealing surface before spinning the new filter on just to insure it's clean

Also inspect the frame for rust through spots, the top of the fuel tank rusted through on those trucks as well as the brake/fuel lines. If it's 4wd make sure it works and there is oil in the TC

Don't know where you are as far as consumer protection laws but here in Massachusetts they cannot charge more than $10 more than the estimate without your approval. Yes I agree there shouldn't have been a bill to cover a safety recall, If it wasn't fixed correctly the first 2 times there shouldn't have been a charge ,recall or not. Look into the state Attorney General consumer protection for help.

The ignition lock cylinder is not properly indexed, pull the cylinder out again, manually turn the locking mechanism to the lock position with a screw driver or something then reinstall the cylinder in the lock position

Chances are it's the module again, broken/loose solder connections

Power comes from the +battery wire to the underhood fuse box. Take a test light and see where you lose power. Do not overlook the ground side.

Thanks for the reply, I fixed it a coupla weeks ago, I have a parts truck and took the 1 out of that and that 1 was either fried too or there is another problem so I pulled 1 of them apart set it on floor/defrost and called it a day. the 06 has a center console with duct work right in front of the actuator, got so aggravated I took a sawzall and cut it out. Made the job tolerable. The truck will never see the road again, it is a parking lot plow until the frame breaks. I bought it for $500 needing a fuel pump, the top and lines had rotted off of it, when I had the bed off I saw how rusty the frame is, paper thin in spots. It runs great,6.0, came with brand new Goodyear tires and the plow so no loss if it breaks . Too bad cuz it was a very nice truck before the rust got to it

The drains are clogged in the back and the fronts are not , If it bothers you that much pull the door panel and see whats clogging the drain holes

Probably a problem in the underhood fuse box

If they decked the block and milled the heads then the pushrods may be too long now, it's a long shot but that's all I got. If you are desperate enough back the rocker arm bolts off 1 turn and see if there is any improvement. newdude's pretty sharp so see what he thinks

New cam and lifters? I wonder if maybe the valve lash is a tad on the tight side. Welcome to the forum!

Anticipation of the tariff?

Probably not unless the crank case was open to the atmosphere. Was the distributor out of the engine for 7 months? i would change the oil and make sure the coolant is at the full mark and monitor the coolant level. It could be the intake manifold gaskets leaking

It's called convoluted tubing and is available in most parts stores in different diameters

Check for transfer case codes

Down another nickle on the Hi-way this am $2.72, $2.67 for cash at the truck stop

the fans probably don't kick on til over 230, most of the country is cold right now so sitting idling it may not get hot enough to trigger them on. If your scan tool does live data you can monitor the coolant temp and see when they are commanded on. As far as them not running with the a/c on it could be a bad high pressure switch. Best to follow the trouble tree in the FACTORY service manual

As always check for codes. A good scan tool will tell you if the fans are commanded on or not and will tell you actual coolant temps

On the radiator support. DON'T GUESS! get a test light or DVOM and test the grounds. Very possible that there is a bad body ground