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richard wysong

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Everything posted by richard wysong

  1. Even the base model is programmable I believe but do not recall the procedure. Have you looked in the owners manual?
  2. If you plan on keeping the truck DO NOT use stop leak, if you ever have to open the system the stuff solidifies when exposed to air. Common leak would be compressor seals. If the popping noise is under the dash it's probably one of the blend door actuators with a stripped gear. Stop leak will not stop a leak at the compressor shaft seal
  3. yeah prices over the border in NH up about .40 in the mid $2.90s, missed the local hi-way this am so don't know if they did the same
  4. Most places in town unchanged, mid $2.70s, 1 place up to $2.85
  5. The Mobil and Noria on the highway went up 6 cents, $2.85, the independants stayed at $2.78 so far, I haven't been to town to see prices yet
  6. Pressure should be about 50lbs psi so it will be a big squirt at the test port. Have you checked the fuses in the underhood box? Never seen a spider cause a starvation no start, probably not it. Hows the wire connector on top of the plenum that feeds the injectors? biscayne may be right if all else checks out
  7. Probably 700r4. those trucks had rear diff issues, if the trannys not an issue leave it alone if it's never been serviced. Frame rot if you're where they use road chemicals, 4wds tend to wear ball joints regularly unless greased often
  8. Try it without the air filter and see if that helps. The water may have damaged it
  9. Some times the rear of the factory radio is stamped with a diagram
  10. Unplug it and see if it still blows
  11. I would use a GM part, Dorman probably makes a replacement but it may not be as good quality
  12. I would check to make sure the front axle is disengaged, the actuators get corrosion around the threads that compresses the housing and the dildo gets stuck,
  13. have you checked the oil in the transfer case? The chain in the TC wears into its oil pump so the fluid will have a metalic look to it. Also the rear differentials had problems on those, Did you make sure the ujoints were centered when you changed them and there was no change?
  14. That sensor won't keep it from starting. I would closely inspect the engine wiring harness for chaffed wires, rodent damage etc, Does your scan tool do live data, have scope capabilities?
  15. up locally $2.77, unchanged on the hi-way, still $2.79 87. Road trip later today ,will report what I see
  16. what is your fuel pressure?
  17. So the PCM sends a ground signal to each injector to "fire" it when cranking or running, you can check that with a test light also or use a noid light, check that and let us know
  18. Do you have power (12v) at the injectors?
  19. Welcome to the forum. What is the code definition? There are over 30,000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post instead of taking the time to look it up
  20. Simplest way may be to remove the lock plate, cut the lock notches off and reinstall. If you remove it completely you may end up with play in the column
  21. As always the first step is to check for codes, the parts store "free" scan may not do body codes so you may have to pay your local garage to do a scan. Their scanners are expensive with yearly software updates around $1000 so don't expect it for free. Try playing with the temp and mode controls while it's making the noise and see if it changes or stops
  22. Probably a blend door motor on the a/c heater either out of sync or stripped gear.
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