richard wysong

thats not good, probably some kind of bearing material. could be cam bearing where you have no noise. when they rebuilt my engine they didn't mike the crank and its had ****** for op ever since I put it in, They said pull it out and they would fix it. I asked them if they thought it was held in with zippers so its been like that for 70k miles now. I run Castrol 20-50w and it has much better pressure than anything else. when the pressure starts to drop off I know it's time to change it

my truck was using small amounts of coolant for months with no signs of leakage. I found the leak while delivering a trailer on my way to Baltimore the intake gasket blew at 2am on a Sunday morning about 100 miles from home . they would have towed the truck home with my AAA but not the trailer so I ended up having to do the repair on the side of the road. there was a 24hr Walmart within walking distance for oil, chemicals and compressed air in a can. by the time I got it apart the NAPA store in Middletown Ct was opening and delivered all the parts I needed. changed the oil 3 times before continuing. no leaks since but the pressure from the sudden loss of coolant into the crankcase did crack the timing cover

all manufacturers use some form of stopleak when the vehicle is built so it won't hurt to use some and see if it stops the leak again. why did you flush the system?

read the posts from Eight track hits for more info on what you're looking at in terms of the leak repair

Hows the oil look? Drain the oil after it sits overnight WITH OUT starting it and see if theres coolant in it. it will be the first thing out the hole as it's heavier than oil. if there's coolant and the oil looks like chocolate milk change it and start the engine just long enough to flush the old oil from the bearings otherwise you will be rebuilding or replacing the engine after you find the coolant leak which could be anything from an intake manifold gasket to a cracked block or head. if you have been driving it with coolant in the oil you may find with fresh oil you have no pressure when the motor warms up as antifreeze has destroyed the crankshaft bearings

some condensation is normal this time of year and there is some coolant in the exhaust from before so take it for a blast and cross your fingers

the only differences in the harnesses may just be some of the connectors are different. check carefully to make sure its going to work before you start the install if using a different year than the truck and engine. I don't think I would have attempted what you are doing without having the donor vehicle available to get any thing I needed off of it

it's not an easy job changing the harness, lots of leads come out of the main harness and trying to keep them untangled and routed properly is a test of my patience and I've been doing this almost 50 years

98 harness only fits 98 according to GMparts.com. I know because I'm replacing mine. the application description is on that sight but you may need a part number to look it up and that may be difficult because they use your VIN to look it up. the 98 harness came with the underhood fuse box and does not connect to the interior except for the bulkhead connector and the ac wiring that plugs in behind the glovebox so as long as the bulkhead connector is the same you are probably ok with the interior fusebox

make sure the doors moving free if you change the actuator, I know I have had a few pencils that have fallen thru my vents over the years that will cause problems someday

if the coolant levels full then that actuators on its way out it sounds like. yes same 1, controls temperature blend door. if it has 2 zone controls it may have 2 of them

fuses? stop firing the parts cannon and get a diagnostic tree and follow it to find the malfunction. i had the same problem and it was the wires to the crank sensor shorted to the exhaust manifold. older truck than yours tho . tree is on Alldata or GM service manual. No 5v anywhere? has to be no power input to PCM if this is so. PCM pinout on Alldata also, if you don't want to pay go see a local shop or NAPA store and have them print it out for you

time to get a wiring diagram and put the parts cannon away. check the grounds etc.. the multi switch should send a signal to the motor triggering an electronic relay for the pump and starting the motor. with the rain sensor this may be different tho so you will need to consult a service manual with a wiring diagram. maybe someone else here knows if its different

could be that, a bad thermostat, clogged heater core. does the temp gauge read normal? if so check the heater hoses close to the firewall, they should be about the same temp with the engine warmed up and running at a high idle. if 1 is cooler than the other the core is clogged and needs to be back flushed. if thats ok do the actuator,

washer pump is controlled thru the circuit board in the wiper motor, sounds like you have multiple issues. does the washer pump have a good ground? it worked before you replaced the motor and now it doesn't .you have a defective wiper motor probably just the board but just exchange the whole thing

possibly defective, try another 1

Happy Motoring!!! Any surprises from the trans shop?

sounds like you got a bad wiper motor or possibly theres a different 1 for rain sensing. the pulse board is replacable without changing the motor. your English is better than a lot of posts

stack switch may be bad causing shutdown

does the burner automaticly restart or do you have to hit the reset? if it restarts on its own its possible its normal operation of the system but the system is not large enough to handle the load of cold water returning with all zones pumping. it seems like it should stay on but if its a computerized system it may have a temp sensor thats acting up and causing it to time out. if its computerized there may be a way to pull codes by the leds on the control

I'm no expert but have some knowledge, Whats up? if theres a problem with the burner and its a newer computerized version I know nothing

Where you don't have the knowledge /tools or expertise to do the job yourself you should find a local independant mechanic/ garage that you can build a relationship where they know your vehicle and understand your desire for good honest service. there are many great technicians working at or owning local garages all over this country. if you don't know ask a trusted neighbor for a recomendation. granted there are some shadetree guys working independantly too, but explaining your desires to the tech and listening carefully to his replies should give you a clue as to his ability to provide you with the desired service. most good techs will be very busy but will take the time to make sure the customer is happy and when you find this guy and stick with him you will have much less stress having any work done on any of your vehicles

I was ready to post that same sentiment but realize some ppl aren't as mechanicaly inclined but if you want it done right do it yourself. It would seem the OP has relied on others for every aspect of working on the vehicle

have YOU measured to the backing plates? the guy at the garage you took it to may not have done as precise a measurement as is needed. it makes no sense unless the spring shackles or bushings are worn the springs can't really twist because the plate that clamps them to the diff should prevent that. if it was my truck I would loosen the u-bolts enuff to make sure the pins are in the sockets top and bottom both sides then make sure ALL the bolts are tight on the springs and shocks inspecting the hangers and shackles as I do it. if everything checks out you could always add a panhard bar to keep it centered but that will limit the suspension travel if you do much off road stuff

again measure from the spring, block,and axle both sides to the backing plate or caliper bracket should give you an idea of if its installed correctly . the measurements should be the same if the installation is correct ,if it is then you have a spring issue to deal with