richard wysong

i have had to do the relearn a couple times for it to take before

if you get a bunch of crap out of the core you may want to forward flush it then reverse it again to get it all out then figure out why a new core clogged. I know in the late 80s they had a problem from not cleaning out the casting slag when they cast the blocks but that usually rotted the freeze plugs from the inside out

so it has a restriction either in the heater core the hoses or the pipes off the engine. if the feed pipe comes off the manifold pull the hose and look for corrosion or any trash that may be there. if thats clear pull the return and hook up the garden hose to back flush the core. they make a tool that attaches to the g hose with an air fitting on it to give it a good blast but a regular hose with good pressure will do the trick. watch what comes out when you hit it with the water you may see a blob of sealer or other smat come out

if not feel the heater hoses, they should be about the same temp. if 1 is cooler than the other you have a restriction somewhere. they should be almost too hot to hang on to with a high idle fully warmed up. if that checks out it has to be in the heater box. did you do the core yourself ? AC? manual or electric controls?

if you want to take the time to give the cooling system a flush before you refill it you can change to regular antifreeze. 1 of the bad things about Dexcool is its very corrosive when exposed to air such as low coolant level or seeping hose connections. its fine in a tight system though

thanks , good to know

learn something new everyday. thank you for correcting me. what year did they start electronic throttle control?

maybe some1 can take a pic of it and post it to show you

there was a post a while ago with the same symptoms and cleaning it cured it

it has an IAC somewhere in the area of the throttle. thats how the pcm controls idle speed. has a 3 wire connector and 2 screws holding it to the throttle body. the way it works is it screws the pintle in and out to control basicly a vacuum leak that raises and lowers the rpm to the pcm command. they get stuck occasionly and may not set a code. if your scanner does data you should see the counts start high when you start it and slowly decrease. when you take it out to clean it and the passages it sits in you will probably find it fully extended, clean it and then screw/push the pintle in before reinstalling. when you start it the idle should be higher than normal but quickly decrease, if it doesn't its probably NG

as it all started when you changed the bat make sure any wiring, grounds in that area didn't get damaged

try doing the idle relearn procedure. when you changed the bat you lost memory. it sometimes has to be done after a throttle clean as well. also try cleaning the idle air control and make sure the pintle moves. did you check with a scan tool or just a code reader?

if you don't have the encoder why do you need the light to do anything

the clicking would be a relay and without an encoder motor no light may be normal

its most likely that wheel has a different offset. not hard to check with a ruler/ tape measure

could be either, theres a battery in the pcm so if that battery is still charged the code may not disappear. some vehicles hold codes for life even if they have been cleared. you can buy a cheap code reader for about $20 that will read and clear codes

you are welcome, keep us posted. it says for sale and parts are ok to post here if you decide to go that way too

if you have a 2500 with the leaf spring very close to the backing plate you may want to either unbolt the backing plate or just the wheel cylinder to change the line and work on the bleeder (rear drum brakes )

try a parts store and see if they have a free scan that will do trans codes /data. if its the selector or the solenoids it should show a code. when you get there don't shut the truck off as some codes may not stay memorized. if the scanner does data shift thru the gears while watching the shift position on the scanner, that checks the position part of the switch that communicates that back to the ecm. you can change the solenoids out yourself for a couple hundred $, watch the utube video. if I wasn't 2500 miles away I would give you a hand. good luck! a regular obd scanner that does data can check the position switch

bunnys right , when its that cold putting a slight load on the bat excites the electrons to get the current flowing before hitting it with the big amp draw from the starter

if it's 2wd that estimate seems a little high but about right for 4wd. it can be done without a lift using a rented trans jack and big jack stands. hows the fluid look/ smell ?

yes trans codes very often do not set the CEL, you may be right that it needs a rebuild but you may still want to have the trans shop scan it to make sure before condemning it. the electrical parts can cause many symptoms you wouldn't think possible

or possibly add a brush guard and add a receiver to that. they sell just the receiver tube at Tractor supply

you will probably have to make what you are looking for.

good point, I don't think water alone would cause a problem unless the connection was already compromised by corrosion etc. the selector switch is the most likely culprit to be affected by water alone. being in Nevada the truck probably hasn't seen lots of road salt or freezing temps so corrosion may not be an issue