richard wysong

I would just open up the harness enuff to make sure the wire didn't overheat and if it looks ok you could splice a new wire in or tape it up or shrink tube it or just leave it bare . the concern is that the wire is acting as a ground for something that it's not intended for and overheated melting the insulation and possibly damaging other wires in the harness.

I think you are refering to the sway bar, there are no rubbers on a torsion bar which is basicly the spring. it mounts in the middle of the truck and goes thru the rear of the lower control arm. it is adjustable for ride height

any progress?

torsion bars don't wear out so theres no spec. if you think theres excessive clearance compared to the other side the problem is probably the control arm

yes cut the tape/convaluted tubing back enuff to make sure its just fire damage and not from the wire overheating. if its just fire damage the missing insulation doesn't matter as its a ground wire . check for any other damaged wires while you are there and tape it back up when you're done

I believe Auto Zones are made by Exide, they also make Die Hard and many others. I never had much luck with them or Deka. I think Interstate is the best. believe it or not WalMart batteries are pretty good bang for the buck

so if you unplug the fuel tank connector the gauge stays on empty? normally it should go to full. I know theres a PCM pinout on ALLDATA cuz I have used it when my cr sensor wires shorted out

HAPPY MOTORING!

i would try a different dealer, there is NO way thats a normal condition. what do they do at the large dealers? drive 50 trucks once a week? if you get no satisfaction go to GM regional and on up the ladder. squeeky wheel gets the grease!

what code is it throwing?

some of your issues appear to be possibly BCM related possibly brought on by a ground issue

it should be bolted to the back of the engine but its supposed to be an insulated wire and it looks like the insulations burned off it so Im betting the bad ground is elsewhere and its back feeding thru that wire causing the wire to overheat so check the main ground cable between the battery and the block to start. that wire may be the ground for the 02 sensor , you may want to open that harness up and make sure theres no other melted wires. ALLDATA has a ground location chart and wiring diagrams

wiring diagram and trouble shooting tree on ALLDATA

usually the way the gauge works is the sending unit is a variable resistor between the gauge and ground but if its going to the pcm may be different and have a 5v reference. reading empty would mean its shorted and reading full means the circuits open

did you replace the whole fuel pump module? can you manipulate the gauge with a test light to ensure the problems in the wiring and not the tank? there was a similar post not too long ago where the new sending unit was hitting the baffle in the fuel tank causing it to read empty but I don't think that would set the CEL. the wire probably goes to the PCM then the PCM sends the signal to the gauge. my 98 has never set the CEL no matter how screwd up the gauge but it may be because its a 2500hd regular Silverado so may have different electronics

it sounds like possibly 1 of the brackets that hold the cable may be out of whack but you would have seen that changing the cable. is there a lot of play in the shifter? make sure the adjusting mech is locked . Idon't know if the interlock can cause that. I suppose have a helper shift it while you look and see where the slop in the cable is,

if not it may just be the wrong cable

did it have the problem before you changed the cable?

when you shift it thru the gears and back to park do you hear the park pin ratchet noise? if you do that means the trannys workn but the tc is either still in neutral or fd up. if not somehow the tranny must have been damaged. I had a tow company refuse to tow my truck (98 k2500hd ) in that manner when it died even tho it has manual shift tc. the oil pump is on the rear output shaft in the tc so if it had oil in it it should have been ok. keep us updated on the diagnosis, it may save some1 from the same problem

ya got me, could be it doesn't see all the data parameters on the first pass? Im not saying everytime it has to be done twice but from experience if it doesn't fix it the first time try it again before moving up the tree

if it still has those quick connect fittings on the engine that may be your clog . you can get new 1s or replace them with a nipple, they usually leak if you try to reuse them. careful they often snap off when you remove them. if they do the best way to get the broken piece out is to cut it almost thru with a saw blade them carefully collapse it with a chisel then chase the threads

so rereading the post sounds like you did it right, trans in park, transfer in neutral, Correct? it shouldn't have damaged the trans so it must have done something to the transfer case if you are sure the tc is shifting properly

i don't know if you have ever dealt with vehicles in subzero temps but most of the time that doesn't work. you either get it inside to warm it up or you change the plugs and hope it doesn' t flood again when you try to start it. holding it to the floor is supposed to stop fuel flow but the plugs are soaked by then and its hard to get it to start even without gas cuz whats there won't vaporize. so the idea behind putting a draw on the battery is to wake it up and get the electrons flowing to get max amperage when you hit the starter. I don't care where they test it when it's that cold its gonna crank slow even with 2 batteries.

2 0r 4wd?if 4wd make sure transfer case is in 2wd and try it in 4wd. if 2wd you couldn't have towed it in park and if you towed it in neutral without it running you probably fried the transmission. the only way you can tow is 4wd transfer case in neutral or remove the driveshaft

maybe not the batteries though. when its that cold if it doesn't fire right off it stands a good chance of flooding cuz the gas won't fully vaporize. I would be using a block heater.that usually keeps it a little warmer under the hood